20 Most Recent 1989 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight - Page 7 Questions & Answers

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this is not clear at all (is 3.4L engine my bet) the starter is silent or not? if the starter motor spins the enigine crank shaft , fast that that is cranks ok not start engine. no crank means. the crank shaft never spins and that as a few causes, blow fuse test them all? crank in park and in Neutral too? N can work and P fail on any car. no power to PCM fuse mean main power is dead main 12vdc power buss is dead. and that is much larger fuse even 100amps. if you scan the PCM well that action will be dead. lacking PC power so here is that power feed, battery must be 12.6vdc rested, not 10v here we go ,2 paths dead, starter motor and PCM dead power. Fuse link C blow out. GM gray coded,same goes fore Fuse a1/2 blown. fuse link A, blown GM rust coded make alternator 100%^ dead and now the battery dead too ,lacking working ALT. next is fuse link Z (GM gray) runs vast things. I wonder what fuse is this PCM fuse as none are marked that. there are 100 schematic to see, I am working throught them all to find PCM are head lamps dead, are brake lamps dead? head lamps work key off, so is always fix it first if dead. fuse (Fa1/2 ) PCM/ABS fuse 10amps the a1 side is main power to this fuse. and this also kills dead the transmission range switch PRNDL and starter too dies. So fuse A1 side is your critical failure point on this car. so maxi fuse 40amps blew out from a short. A1 FUSE GOES HOT KEY ON ONLY. (NO IMMO FAILURES IF HAS IT. IF NOT a ign MAIN 1 FUSE 40AMPS IS BLOW OR POWER TO MAIN ONE IS GONE. mIAN1 IS WIRED HARD TO THE BATTERY MAIN ALL MAXI FUSES ARE, SO IS BLOWN THAT FUSE OR THE KEY SWITCH IS BAD.(IN RUN)

after replacing the ignition tumbler. You replaced the key an lock cylinder, correct ? You need to program new key to the vehicle,if you got the right kind of key . You can't just buy any aftermarket key. Your best bet,take it to a qualified repair shop.

Possibly a bad microswitch in the door latch. You can try spraying the latch down with contact cleaner then WD40 and open and close the doors a few times, but usually it is time for a latch replacement.

This problem is typically caused by a discharged battery or a poor battery connection. These conditions can allow some components with a low electrical load to work properly, however when it comes time to start the engine (which requires a high electrical load), it will not start. The first thing you'll want to do is check the battery terminals. Look for signs of corrosion (green powdery buildup) at the battery posts and clean as necessary. Also, attempt to twist the terminals on the battery posts by lightly pushing and pulling on the battery cables; they should not move if they are properly tightened. If no issues are found, attempt to jump-start the vehicle. If jump-starting the vehicle works, you could have a faulty battery or a parasitic drain, but a faulty battery is by far the more common of the two failures. You can read more about how to deal with a dead or discharged battery here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-handle-dead-battery-problems

First, try spraying some starter fluid into the throttle body. If it starts, then the problem is in the fuel system. If you hear the pump running, is the fuel gauge working? If it still does not run, then possible ignition problems. Using a scanner would help in determining where the problem is.

Doesn't sound like you connected the column to the rack. If you have done a complete revolution of the wheel you probably need a new clock spring now too.

Lots of possibilities. First with the ac turned on and car running, check to see if the compressor hub is turning. If it is, then you will need to check the ac pressures with a set of gauges. If you do not know how, the have someone qualified to do it. If not, then it could be a pressure switch, relay, fuse, or any number of electrical connections or wires. Do a visual inspection.

Could need a simple carburetor adjustment or a rebuild. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl4OA5aDyNY

greetings ANON: Eighty-Eight is real name, a 1998 , Eighty-EIGHT. marketed from 1989 on as the Eighty Eight 1998 in USA has the great PCM (engine brain) OBD2, that if you scan it can see DTC P07xx codes. Ninth generation (1986-1991) I say that to be talking about this generation, 88 is not. 4-speed 440-T4/4T60 automatic(old and new names)same. 4T means 4 speed, transverse box. 60 is load rating. wiki car lies ,it is 4T60e ELECTRONIC SHIFT , GM MN3. I'm confused, on that. EVIDENCE. does the shift lever work (means just it) OK PRNDL how long ago did the car run perfect. last week, last year, or? wasn't slipping but now is.? why say burnt, (visual, smell or both) most fluids now turn from red to brown, and is normal based on brand of ATF there. key , off, the you key on in park and start the engine, all gears dead? PRNDL . R D and L are dead. then if not dead and all gears kinda work does D , shift to all gears, 1,2,3? and no false neutrals.? or called FLARE, (is false Neutral) all A?T made slip, until the TCC clutch locks up. so slip is normal how , why is what matters. abnormal is what we fix. GM called it M15 in the RPM (no turbo engines) or GM (BOP) MN3. (buick , olds, Pontiac =BOP) the cars RPO tag tells what box is there of the 3, used. day1.

• M15 - 245 mm (9.6 in) torque converter
• MN3 - 258 mm (10.2 in) torque converter

just the clutch is different, the clutch size. 4T60e , the new name of this box is here and is PCM shifted (TCM). has speed sensors and has 2 shift solenoids. to make it shift. not comes test #1 does revers fail> if yes transmission is bad if shift lever not broken that is (and its linkage to box) DTC P0705 Trans Range Switch Circuit? errors this 4T60E BOX can produces, lots and losts of P07xx errors if you just scan the PCM port under dash (obd2, 16pin port) using any real scan tool USA.

• check ATF levels first, per the operators guide, not guessing how.
• Check all fuses
• then scan the PCM P07xx DTC errors stored?

to see any speed sensors errors, solenoid errors or shift errors or even brake errors (park lock out feature) in most cases if Drive or Low or Reverse is dead. the transmissions pump port will show way too low pressure. but the scan too are important. if selector errors. some causes are easy to fix. selector, sensors or solenoids. or wires bad to them./ If reverse fails say so as his is top key failure here to what is wrong. 2 solenoids. the PC SOL on the right can fail and shifts will be wrong. not the lack of reverse sol. its mechanical. so if Rev fails pump pressure may be low.

PURGED.1998 DATA1988 Ninety-Eight. regency brougham real nameSEE BELOW FOR REAL NAME FACTS, ENGINE GUESSED.https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Only you can see where the leak is. Probably a hose has split.

A magnet with a extension may work.

that doesnt mean that its not overheating --have vehicle scanned can be a failed fan-sensor-water pump etc theirs multi reasons

check and test power to and fuel pump

No, the motor has gearing that moves the seat and also locks it into place. If you could get to it, you may be able to turn it manually. https://www.google.com/search?q=1980+Oldsmobile+Toronado+seat+motor https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/oldsmobile/toronado/1013-1979-1985-oldsmobile-toronado-fuse-box-diagram.html ..

https://fuses.guru/oldsmobile/oldsmobile-alero-2003-fuse-box-diagram/

As long as you have an original key, you do not need a separate module for a 1995. you just need an ohm meter to get the chip resistance on the key body and then make your self a chain of resistors to wire in line at the base of the column to bypass the lock cylinder.

With no screws and bolts in place the door panel is held on with 'push in' clips on the front, bottom and rear edges. The top edge is simply hooked into the gap the window glass lifts up through. Using a plastic tool work your way around the edge to lever the panel away from the door. Once you get two or three clips released you should be able to get your hand in the gap. Slide your hand around 'popping' the rest of the clips. The panel should then swing out at the bottom far enough to slide it up out of the window slot. You should be able to reach in and pull the door release cable by hand.