1994 Mercedes-Benz E-Class - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you remove the switch you can clean and repair most problems with them sticking.

Fuse for antenna is the same for central locking. If you have the original antenns (3 piece mast) most likely it is not the fuse it is a broken gear or bad control module.

The "strip" fuse is in a tootsie roll sized black container on the drivers side strut mount. pop it open and there it is. 2 philips screws hold it in place. Breaks in the fuse are not easy to see.

Spin fuses to clean corrosion off of them or replace with the new aluminum style.

I would suspect loose connection at the sender or faulty sender.

check condition of spark plugs and wires.. they can cause cut out at take off.
I have problems with Bosch spark plugs. But I love the Bosch ultra premium ignition wires
Also check for vauume leaks, intake hoses tight.etc.

is your master cylinder leaking

heater solnoide faulty.sometimes can repair remove top cover clean out and check the seal inside.also make sure you got current at valve.

You may have a bad temperature sensor/thermostat.

1- There are 2 fan systems in your car. One is a fan clutch. the other is electric fan. The electric fan is still working, but the fan clutch is not. Replace the fan clutch will take care of this problem. 2- When you put flat down on accelerator the car starts since at this position the throttle body open all the way making a correct air: fuel ratio of 14.6 :1. When you release the accelerator,the throttle body has to go back to it preset position and at this position it didn't make a correct air: fuel ratio of 14.6 causing the engine die instantly. This means your throttle body needs cleaned. There is a vacuum thermal valve at the top engine block to answer your question. It can be easily identified by looking at 2 vacuum hoses from this valve running down to the throttle body.

the reset procedure is to lock and unlock the drivers or passengers door with the key, if that doesn't work then u have a problem with the disarm switch in the door

i Is the engine wire harness original? or has it already been replaced?
if its original, this may sound crazy unless you already know that MB has a big problem with the wires under the hood.
But your car may need a new engine wire harness.
They start to crumble leaving the wires bare in places to short together and cause all kinds of crazy things.
Your car is at the perfct age to start experiancing this problem.
Unfortunetly the best way to cure this is to replace the harness.
A harness costs about $900 new, plus labor.
To check the harness, I unwrap the wires in several places on top of the engine by the injectors, and for the ignition coils and a few other places, I then bend the wires around a little, and look for cracking or crumbling. If you see ANY cracks in the insulation, that is not good .
To replace the harness is acually easier than it looks. it takes one to two hours, even less if you done one before.
There is a high percentage of the MB that I have seen, have this harness problem..

Good luck, and I hope this info helps

Get the proper tool to get it off. You should use socket wrench extension.

A ball acher, but check the starter solenoid Relay, by interchanging with another LIKE TYPE Relay, then if no joy, proceed to unfasten and clean ALL main line Power to... and Ground to... connections.Regards,DT

I'm not sure if that is a timed pump or not ? Could be that the timing is a little retarded an needs to be advance. Have you noticed an increase in black or blue smoke during acceleration ? could also be one of the injectors are not working properly at idle ? hope this helps.

ABS-

Most likely cause is the 'stop lamp switch'
It is a electric switch located on the brake pedal inside the car, about half way up on the brake pedal.
Pretty cheap too, I think the switch is only like $25 bucks.
2 connectors on the switch and then it turns out.
hope that helps
Fan relay should be in black box near frewall

let me guessa 320. i'm assuming it is not a 420 because the h.f.m. systems worked better than the previous lh. systems. the wire harness are very brittle after about 5 years and your looking at 15 years. This h.f.m. harness was constructed from biodegradable insulation manufactured for europes version of osha. This insulation turns to dust and all you have left is barewire-which shorts to ground and cross shorts like crazy. There is a way to blink code test the vehicle and retreive codes without the engine ever have been running. i have the literature and code diagnostic charts but i think you should have a good look at the crankshaft sensor wire harness. It is held in by a zip tye in the back of the oil filter housing. follow that harness and make sure that the connecter is plugged in and that the sensor is tight. Any damage or corrosion that disrupts this sensitive signal will casue ther to be a constant voltage to your coil packs. You will not have any trigger (just like removing the points from a conventional distributer type ign.) Check your trigger circuit at the coil first. even if you have the mechanical timing wrong you should still have a trigger from the flywheel crank sensor. The camshaft sensor is used for advance and fuel injection.

Auto Zone has them for under a hundred but remeber the rule you get what you pay for there are a number of different models get a mid priced one.

try your dimmer switch on the instrument cluster. that unit is just a variable resistor and they are a comman failure. by sliding your instrument cluster out you can gain access to the dimmer switch from the rear of the cluster(just be careful of your oil pressure line that attatches to the back of the oil gauge because if it is damaged it will squirt oil all over your interior when the vehicle is started. good luck

I had a similar problem with my 1986 300e , which got progressively worse until the car was no longer driveable, I changed out the fuel pump relay and the problem went away.