20 Most Recent 1992 Mercedes-Benz SL-Class Questions & Answers

Instrument cluster removal - Mercedes - YouTube

? 2:09 www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7vM78b5cOw Jan 15, 2010 - Uploaded by Lim Lai Aik my instrument panel lights not working.how can I change the bulbs? thanks ... 1972 Mercedes-Benz 600 Kompressor - Jay Leno's Garage - Duration: 18:56. by ... How to convert Mercedes R129 SL ,w124 dash gauge lighting to LED ... Part 1/5 Mercedes S-Class W220 Instrument Cluster Repair - Duration: ...

i have lost my fuze panel diagram paper from the back trunck of my 92 benz 500sl i need a copy.

If your engine is idling to fast there is a chance you may have a vacuum leak some place so I would start out by looking for a vacuum leak. The best and fastest way to check for vacuum leaks is to buy a can of break cleaner and spray all of your vacuum lines while the car is running. If you have a vacuum leak and the spray hits it the car will either idle down or idle even higher. Either way you will know you have found the problem. Another thing that you want to check is the vehicles throttle positioning sensor. This sensor controls your cars idle and if it is bad it will cause a fast, slow, or rough idle. I hope this helps you out.

Hi

you can access the ignition switch from underneath the dash, but it is easier to remove the steering wheel, then the instrument cluster. There are two basic elements to the ignition switch. The part that usually breaks down first is the front section, where the key goes into. You have to remove the entire unit from its bracket. Unplug the wire loom from the back of the housing. I believe there are two screws holding both sections together. Remove the screws and replace the unit. Then re-assemble.

Please check the link bellow :-

http://www.ehow.com/how_5833556_remove-mercedes-ignition-switch.html


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OK what I put here is for the E class Mercedes of the same era. Generally Mercedes shares build concepts and ideas across different classes of car. The mirror assembly consists of a mirror frame socket fitted to ball on the end of a mount arm. If the mount on the SL is the same then the idea is to stop the mirror from moving freely on the ball. It should be possible to slip the end of a clothing pin(s) between the ball, which is steel, and the socket, which is plastic. Force it gently in and check for the degree of play in the mirror. Once the mirror is stiff clip the protruding remaining length of pin(s) away to keep things looking tidy. Crude, effective but, above all, much cheaper than $900

Center Console Removal:

1. Remove ash tray
2. Remove 2 screws from rear of ashtray holder
3. Remove ashtray holder. Pry out right side first and then disconnect electrical connector on left side.
4. Remove 2 screws from wood console
5. Remove wood by sliding to rear to disengage dowel.

Stereo Removal & Replacement

Pull the faceplate off the radio.
Remove the ashtray and tray holder. When removing the ashtray frame you have to twist from the passenger side toward the driver side because there is an electrical connection on the driver side. Remove the two screws in the back. Pull the wood fascia (of the AC controls) down and out from the bottom.
Push down the two tabs sticking up from the space where the wood fascia was and the radio unit slides out.
(remove the face plate from the radio and there are 2 locking bars holding it in place ,1 each side, straight screwdriver).
Signal / Flasher 
The flasher is part of the hazard switch.
You need to remove the ashtray, the mount for the ashtray, take out the two screws that hold the wood console in place, the shift boot (rubber around gear selector).
Carefully lift the front of the wood, roughly one half inch, then slide the wood section back and it should be off.
On the bottom of the hazard switch is the flasher.
SL Window Switch Repair

Two 4" screwdrivers
One small file 6" or smaller
One brush for cleaning
One pair of tweezers 6" for replacing springs & balls
One Q-tip for cleaning
One 6" strip of emery paper (fine-grit)

Step 1. Take the switch out of the console by means of a 4" standard screwdriver. This can be done by lifting the switch part of the way up, and out, & unplug the wiring block. Some plug into the side, some into the back of the switch. The block plugs in only one way and switches are not interchangeable. With the switch in hand, take two screwdrivers, 4" type, & pry off the chrome cover. Do this slowly, as it holds the switch together and you want to see how it works for reassembly. (it's pretty simple) Two steel balls, two springs, two brass rockers. What goes wrong, is, the contacts on the switch get corroded and need to be cleaned for current to flow through.

Step 2. Take a small file, I carry a 6" jewelers file (fine-cut) and a piece of emery paper (fine-grit) to clean the contact points. Reassemble the switch and the window will work.
Note about the window switch: Do not hold the switch down any longer than to close or open the window. There is no limit switch on these cars. If your window moves slowly, clean the contacts to gain full power.
Should take about 20 minutes.
check out this link for more help
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1349101-diy-first-gear-start-switch-installation.html


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you have to call the dealer and give them your VIN #. They may ask you to come in, for security purposes..

Take the trunk lamp out of its socket for starters. If that is the problem, it should cure the drain. A vacuum leak is the likely cause of the locking problem. Sometimes difficult to find..need to check all vacuum connections and fittings. After some age, this is a common problems with Benz. The hoses become brittle and crack, usually at the fittings. Good Luck@ I hope you find this to be very helpful!

its probably time to upgrade to a nice cd player. have a reputable place install it and dont cut the stock harness.

Put in your radio code as once the battery feed has gone its like someone is trying to pintch it and wont woek so get the code and punch it in and your be ok.
Have a goodday

could be either a faulty wire connection due to corrosion or a bad switch test with a test light to ensure proper power to both the switch and wires for fault