Top 20 1990 Mercedes-Benz E-Class - Page 4 Questions & Answers

could be a spark plug, plug lead,cracked distributor or several other things but I would check the plugs and leads first

the gold or green light means that you need to add gas the lights are a warning that you have approx. 40 miles left before you run out of gas.

please be more descriptive,in queens english

Low RPM, high load is when the engine demands the best spark. More than likely you have a bad plug or plug wire causing this issue. You didn't say how many miles are on the car. It could also be due to a broken piston ring, but I wouldn't say that without knowing what kind of mileage was on the car.

if you still have the original owner manuals its in the second book it comes on 2 id cards

Is the car in Park?

fuel system and ignition system must be check.

In that period, distributors had a pickup coil inside that produced pulses each time a magnetic rotor passed it.
These do fail but can be tested with a multimeter by measuring the resistance. Different systems use different values but any of the coils should not measure real low (under 100 ohms) or very high (such as more than 10,000 ohms). Those I have measured were in the single-digit kilohms range (more than a 1,000 ohms, less than 10,000). 

I hope that I can help. Sounds like the coil itself went bad. Can also be the electronic spark control module burnt out. Could be the crank or camshaft sensor too. I would have them checked out. I sincerely hope that these ideas could help. Best wishes.

Clean your ABS sensors thatg is mounted on the front disc rotors - they are usually covered with metal fillings and dust due to the magnetic properties of the sensors and also check or replace overload relay located behind battery - "Oldmerc" Australia

check connection to cold start injector and swap it for a know good one i had that trouble and repairing that fixed it

Many possible causes. Spark plugs, HT wires, Distributor cap or rotor, Stale fuel, Ignition coil or a fuel clog somewhere.

could be fans ,radiator blocked or water pump

try this website
http://www.pdfoo.com/pdf-235/mercedes-benz.html

Sounds like you need a new heater core.

you my ask your dealer,part department to order a fuse designation for your car.

YOU HAVE A BAD SHIFTER ASSEMBLY, YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE IT, IS KINDA COMMON PROBLEM, I'VE REPLACED LIKE 4 THIS YEAR ON NEWER MERCEDES BENZ LIKE 2000 ML320 AND SO

Check your wiring connections under neath your front seats - they could be loose and gives rise to this annoying problem

yes
Adjusting
Selector lever
Move to position "P" and turn ignition key to position "0".
Ball nipple of cable (40B) Cable
Clip in and insert into holder.
Cable (40B)
Pull jacket in direction of arrow until lock lever (44B) rests against the cam (48).
Ball nipple of cable (40L)
Clip in and insert.
Cable (40L)
Pull jacket in direction of arrow until lock lever (44L) rests against cam (48) and tighten retaining bolt to 5 Nm .

NOTE: The cables are bolted to the steering lock and hooked onto the brake pedal operating lever. They are routed securely to the floor-mounted shift control without kinks.

Testing After Adjustment
Ignition key in position "1" and brake pedal depressed > or = 25 mm :
The locking levers (44B) and (44L) must disengage fully from the cam (48) so that the selector lever handle can be moved to position "N" without resistance. The parking lock is unlocked.
Brake pedal not depressed:
Move selector lever handle from position "N" to position "P" and turn ignition key to position "0": the locking levers (44B) and (44L) must engage in the cam (48). The parking lock is operative. Press on protective cap.
i need your email address to send you an image.
i need the exact model of your car
300e,190e, etc..

IT'S THE LOCK SWITCH IN YOUR SHIFTER.
IT'S NOT DETECTING THAT YOU HAVE YOUR CAR IN PARK.
PLAY WITH THE SHIFTER FOR A WHILE AND SEE IF THAT FREES THE KEY.
BUT YOU WILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE SWITCH OR THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY IF IS ONE PIECE.