2001 Dodge Viper - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to 'year make model' category. Get under the front of the vehicle and put charger leads on the big red starter connector bolt (positive connection) and the negative on a clean piece of bodywork. Wait 10 minutes and use the fob as there will be enough power in the battery. Open the hood and fully charge the battery. Then find out WHY the battery was flat. If due to storage, keep it on a battery Maintainer / Minder.

So I am assuming that the emergency brake is applied and will not release yes/no? If you were driving through a lot of slush or snow it may have frozen from ice so try jacking it up and follow the cable back to the rear and pay attention to the frame bracket that holds it in place and also the cable from both wheels if you use a propane torch this will melt any ice if you don't have one put antifreeze in a spray bottle it will melt and lube at the same time for it to release pay attention to the springs at the cable ends going into the rear dust plates on the rear ////// if no ice is observed on any cables you might have a master cylinder failure but I don't think so but anyway you can open the bleeder valves to let fluid out of the calipers then you will be able to lightly pry on the calipers or use a block of wood to tap them back if your in the cold outside do not pry on cold metal it will break tapping with a hammer on the wood will drive out the caliper after the hold down pins and anything else is removed and will not be hammer blow absorbed by the metal the wood will take that and not hopefully break anything just go slow a little bit here and there to get it done and don't get frustrated with this it will take time to get the calipers off do not use king Kong power to get these off on cold frozen metal you'll be sorry ok good luck and post back in comments with updates on what you've done and we will take it from there stephen

It's possible that the electrical switch (aka ignition switch) and/or tail piece of the lock cylinder is faulty. With the key on, check to see if they will work when applying slight turning pressure to the key. Not enough pressure to turn the engine off or engage the starter, but just enough to move it from the switches detent.

their is a charging station under the hood!

The anti theft systems are tied in together with your ignition switch. I think you will find that your ignition switch is bad, and that is what is causing your anti theft system to malfunction. If you replace the ignition switch it should solve your problem. I hope this helps and if you have any other questions please feel free to ask.

You have a keyhole under the mirror! It will be very difficult to turn like you're gonna break the key. You can make it easier to turn if you push in on the door while you're turning the key. Good Luck!

you will have to jack it up and take off the left tire. Its behind that and the splash guard.

You have your first hood release inside the car and at the front of the car you have to lift the hood a bit to release the emergency latch. The hood should now open. Don't forget that the hood opens from the windshield side of the hood.

remove the battery from your remote and see if works

probley need to be reprogramed from the dealer lost key code in memory

Make sure it's getting power. If not then check the fuse.

hey i went to be a vip for free can you help me please

It should be a negative ground. Follow the leads from the battery. There should be a little + and - on the battery.

First thing to do is check the choke and make sure it works. When the engine is cold enough to need starting fluid, remove the air breather completely from the carb. get yourself positioned so you can see directly into the carb and open the throttle linkage all the way. You should see 2 things happen. One, the choke plate should close at least part way and 2, you should see a shot of gas going into the barrels. If you're not sure about the gas, hold the choke plate open and giver the linkage another shot.If the choke plate didn't close, hold it closed with your fingers and try to start the truck. It should start, back off the choke plate a little and after a couple minutes it should be good to go.If there was no gas, either it drains off or the fuel pump is getting weak. If the truck doesn't give you any trouble under moderate to hard acceleration, it's not likely the fuel pump. Trouble such as coughing or sputtering. These go away when you ease up on the throttle.If it's the carb draining off then it is time for a rebuild. But, check around before you send it out. Call around and get a price for a total rebuild and then check online. It may be just as cheap or cheaper to buy new from someone like Summit Racing.

sounds like you may have a short that is causing relay to fail so buy a circuit tester at parts store for few bucks and test wires to relay for shorts.

Check your ignition timing. It is advanced to far.

How do you know the Horn is the problem? In most cases it is not the Horn but the steering wheel rotating ribbon contact which is called the Clock-Spring (located under the steering wheel). With the car turned off you should be able to hear the Horn relay clicking when you press the horn button/switch, if not the Horn is not your bad part. To access the Horn on this car you will need to get under the front end, jack it up and place on support safety stands, the horn is tucked up in there on the drivers side.

#1; Is the battery dead? If you can get the car to a parts store,ie; Advanced Auto Parts, they will test the charging system free in most cases.#2 Starter solinoid is mostlikely gone if the engine does not turn over.

That is where you put the new plugs in it it is burning the extra gas and oil that was in the cyclinder it should clear up.if not you could have more problems then tune it up.