20 Most Recent 2003 Chevrolet S-10 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi Bob:The 'check engine' light is reserved only for powertrain problems that could have an impact on the emissions systemsThe Four Most Common Check Engine Light Scenarios and What to DoThe Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers.If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on.If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems.This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all - it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving.Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.Once the repair is completed, a technician will reset the "Check Engine" light. If you have necessary skills, a good scan tool and the repair manual, you can diagnose the problem yourself.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer. Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

did u flush the lines? that might work.

check it using the emergency flashers as well as the blinkers , ( turn signal) if neither works, its probably just the bulb,, but with the newer bulbs, they have just a thin wire that makes the connection, if the bulb checks out using a meter to check it,, pry up very gently on those wires, on the bulb and also inside the socket,, the heat generated by the bulb often melts the plastic holder, and it prevents a good connection, so make sure everything touches

The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream O2 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the Check Engine Light if the readings of the two sensors are similar. This is indicative of (among other things) a converter that is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.

You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.

A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for
An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe
******** spark timing
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings


Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 error code include:
Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required.
Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady).
Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2), replace if necessary
Replace the catalytic converter

One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.

Additional details could find asking in OBD Codes - Diagnostic Trouble Codes

Hope helps (remember to rate and leave an testimonial about this free answer).

CODE P1637 - GENERATOR L TERMINAL CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION CONDITIONS. CODE P1638 - GENERATOR F TERMINAL CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION CONDITIONS. POSSIBLE CAUSES FAULTY GENERATOR WHICH IS ALTERNATOR.CHECK GENERATOR POWER FEED WIRES AND CHECK GENERATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR WIRES FOR LOOSENESS AND DAMAGE. MAKE SURE BATTERY VOLTS ARE 12.6 VOLTS. IF BATTERY WEAK DUE BAD GENERATOR VECHICLE WONT START.

your cad might be starting to plug up

If there are no leaks and the fluid level is correct then the master cylinder has gone bad and needs to be replaced.

Hello,

I hate to say it, or glad to say, that your mechanic is right and wrong. I will explain,

He is right that most likely (trusting what he told you) is that You can not buy a new VAT module, i just did some research and made some calls. However if you can buy it, it would be so expensive who would have it, that it would blow your mind. Now, he is correct and saying you can not by pass it. One it would be a real custom job, and then you would never pass emissions if that custom job was done.

My solution is simple, might take you some phone calls, but the solution is because you can not get a hold of it new, is there our hundred and hundred of junk yards and U-PULL it type of places that you can get this part. Your Chevy S-10 luckily is old enough that I am sure there is enough Chevy S-10 pickups that have been wrecked or totaled over the last 8 years, that you have a REAL good chance of finding that part off a truck that was in a wreck and totaled where you can get the VAT Module and at a low price.... So, what I would go, is first check in your local area, and especially Google wrecking yards and junk yards and you pull it's in the Seattle Washington and Portland Oregon area. They have tons. I am sure you can get this part, but just have to check around with some of those type places, and you WILL SAVE tons of money too... I think this will help you, Mike from Fixya.

plug on right side of the housing near the driveshaft yoke.Remove plug with 3/8 ratchet,fill to bottom of hole

Purchase a hose mender or flush tee. Find the heater hoses under the hood. They will be on the passenger side of the engine and should be 5/8 or 3/4 I.D. hoses. Cut both hoses and install the mender or tee in between the two ends that go to the engine. Usually on hose is 5/8 and the other is 3/4. buy one of each size fitting and try to stretch the 5/8 hose onto the 3/4 fitting. If you can't, when using the smaller one, you will have to tighten the clamp extra tight when fitting the 3/4 hose on the 5/8 barb. get yourself two wormgear clamps in either case.