20 Most Recent 2000 Chevrolet Prizm - Page 7 Questions & Answers

It is GL5 Synthetic 75W-90 I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/uttamjeet_2f3adc18600f8ede

No typical problems seen by this expert. Have you tried going to a heavier gear lube than what is in it now?

Hills are when you need the most power. More Power needs more gas and air than normal. Clogged air filter is easiest to check. Also check fuel filter, fuel injectors and fuel pump.

They are dual earth for a larger spark. This is no problem

There usually is a diagram of it under your hood.

A couple of ways to check if you don't have access to a fuel pressure gauge. You should hear a brief hum or buzz from the gas tank area just by turning the key to on, not start. The fuel pump is supposed to turn on for 2 seconds to put pressure in the fuel line and at the injectors. If you hear nothing, the fuel pump may have failed, but check the fuel pump fuse to know it is not blown . To check further, spray a shot of starting fluid into the air intake housing-take off the big air boot from the air filter housing to the engine, and spray inside there into the engine. Now try to start the car. If the engine coughs to life and tries to run for a few seconds, then you know it wasn't getting gas, and that usually is a bad fuel pump or a totally clogged fuel filter. To check the filter, take it off and blow into the outlet side first and see if what comes out looks clean. Then blow from the inlet side and make sure the filter passes air, that it isn't blocked. If the filter was clean, it must be the pump. It is supposed to turn on briefly with key turned to on, and then it runs constantly when the engine is cranking or running. So it has had a good long life since 1993. The definitive test of a bad pump would be to find live power at the fuel pump wire at the gas tank connector while the engine was cranking over. If power there, but no pump working, definitely time for a new pump.

FUEL ! problem sounds like pump injectors ect

There is no inline fuel filtwer, it is part of the fuel pump intake micro screen. It is never in need of replqacing unless the fuel pump fails.

needs tune up

You have 2 options:1. Get a quote from a paint shop, or maybe a local "backyard" spraypainter who could probably do it cheaper. Check your phonebook for spraypainters in your area.2. Respray the roof and trunk yourself using color-match spray cans from your local auto warehouse. You will to use masking tape and newspaper to cover the windows, windscreen, trims etc that you DON'T want painted.

fuel rail contains o'ring and seal washer. the fuel regulator is at end of rail

run fault codes and look for low fuel pressure problem or faulty coil/s

Code 303 is for a loss of power on cylinder number 3. It could be caused by a spark plug, injector, or compression problem.

RTM , the compression test is in the included manual. in a nut shell.a warm or hot engine, is best,1: have a charged battery, (spins faster)2: all spark plugs removed. (same spins fast)3: if smart , defeat fuel or spark (pull fuel pump relay or fuse to fuel pump. (spark and flying fuel can be a serious safety issue. ) Wear PPE (google PPE if alien to you)4: attached screw-in gauge, hose end to spark hole. 5: block open the throttle, (engine must breath or compression fails)we call this WOT> , wide open throttle.6: crank until the gauge peaks. most will do 170psi easy.repeat on each cylinder, write down the results (dry test)if any read low, add 1 teaspoon of oil to the weak cylinderthen repeat the tests. if compression rises, the rings are shot) if not the valve is shot. (write down this reading under wet tests)if you engine, has valve lash adjusters (solids) , set this first before starting any compression test. This is standard service procedure.

a 1994 1.8L Toyota, engine , model 7A-FEautozone has this... loosen alternator pivot bolt and set tension