Top 20 1998 Chevrolet Corvette Questions & Answers

If the alternator has a bad bearing or bearings it would likely make a noise.

If the security light is blinking it will not start. The security system needs to be reset. You will have to have a fully charged battery to reset the system. With a full charged battery turn the ignition forward until the warning lights come on and leave the key in the on position for 15min. Turn key off and wait 10sec. then try and start.You may have to perform this procedure a couple of times, however, it is usually successful the first try. The reduced power light can be set by a low voltage/poor charge battery

I think the antenna wire is permanently attached to the glass and plugs into the power antenna motor

any number of things can cause that, like an old/dirty oxygen sensor. some things aren't worth fixing while others are, but don't sweat it as long as all your other gauges are in the green and your car still runs, I've run cars for years with engine lights on, its certainly not something to rush anywhere for.

Failure in Evap System-- a possible place to start some TESTING

In the underhood electrical center. The fuse number is 13 and its a 20A mini fuse.

could be several things a shift solenoid in trans ....possibly clogged filter...maybe alinkage problem

bad alternator

Could be bad TPS sensor.

sound like you need to ajust the timing.

If you can verify current going out of the main dash switch towards the headlamps, then I would go relay hunting. My guess is the switch, since the brights and fog lamps work on demand (dimmer switch pulled).

low on freon a/c leak and has set a low refrigerint code that needs to be cleared

Up front behind the headlights.

sound like the moter is going out

10w30 will be fine on any broken in engine. The first 10000 miles 5w30 is recommended. On the very bottom side of the engine's oil pan will be the bolt to remove to drain the oil

Hello,

Congradulations on your first corvette. I have had a couple in my 50 years. They are great cars, fun, head turner and sense its chevy and not foriegn little less money and hassle for repairs.

OK, as far as your problems go. Lets take first one. You say it wont start. I of course do not have all your symptoms complete in your description, however it appears to me (correct me if i am wrong, or do not have enough information) is that it was running ok, and now it appears all your gauges are working battery is showing full charge but when you turn key, nothing!!

Normally if it is the starter of solenoid there would be at least a click sound every time you try and turn the key, and it is pretty easy to hear. So, i do not think it is the starter, as it would at least click. Another note, you can have a fully charged battery in great shape, and if starter is not clicking at all when attempting to turn key, then this narrows it down in most cases to the cables going from the battery to the starter/solenoid.

A lot of times you will have a good battery, and the control panel for your gauges and other things that work on your battery such as radio, fuel pump etc might work fine, which could elliminate any battery problems, with the exception of the cables that go from your battery to the starter, could me loose or corroded. At the least you should hear a click when trying to start the car coming from the starter. Other place to look is fuse box, and find fuse marked as most have, starter switch or relay.
If eventually you get a click sound from your starter when trying to start, then yes your starter is going bad and needs replacing. Conclusion on starting issue, is check all fuses and more then likely check connections directly from battery to starter and relay.On additional note thinking it is your security system, yes that is possible( you would have to check owners manual for that) however i am not sold on that myself, as most the time with security issues they will allow your car to crank and crank, but not fire up. But, something to check into concerning your model and if that is the way it acts, every one is little different, also depends on previous owner might have adapted it different then factory stock.

Now on your air conditioning problem, if it blinks 3 times, and blows only hot air can be needs charge or freon, or sometimes it has leak in line. The good news is that at least its blowing hot hot air, means most likely the compressor is working. What I did with mine, is I went down to AUTO ZONE, and bought a can, of freon and it had gauge it came with it, and directions were real easy, as your at auto zone, and of course starter problem with car is solved, open up hood, if you do not know where the ac hose intake is and charge it yourself. I did myself on mine and it was a piece of cake, and runs now real cool. A service shop i checked on for fun, wanted 300 bucks for diagnosis and make up all this junk that it could be, and so, i said heck with that, bought can, did myself , my total cost was 32 bucks. As long as your compressor is running, its going to be needs freon charge, or possibly pin hole leak in line. Service centers by law can not just add freon with small leak, as the public can for there own environmental liabilities.So, sometimes you can just charge it your self, and even once a year charge it again with a can, and it will be fine.

I really hope this advice helps you, If you would like to write me back with some more prior symptoms of the starting issue, and little more details, if what i have told you does not solve problem, PLEASE do so, and i will do my best to get that GREAT CAR, running again, and keeping you cool, as you look cool in it. Mike, from fixya.


Second problem you are having with the air conditioning. First of all most cars with a security system that might cause this, would allow a person to

the 10 amp fuse you checked is for the lumbar support, there is also a 20 amp circuit breaker in the fuse box there are two of them on for each seat, the drivers side is # 35 20 amp and hear is were we need to start, remove the circuit breaker and test for 12 volt at the circuit breaker, if there is 12 volt try swapping the two circuit breakers and if the seat then works replace the circuit breaker, if not then you will need to get to the wiring plug-in under the seat and check for power to both orange wires if no power on one or both wires then there is a brake between the fuse box and the seat, look real close were the wiring has to bend at the bottom of the seat rail this is were we see most brakes, if there is power at both orange wires then you need to test for power at the gray wire coming out of the switch wile holding the seat adjuster in the froward position, if there is no power replace the switch if there is power replace the motor pack under the seat.

good luck

let me know if there is any thing else you need.

The problem is not the motor it is the switch it is grounding out and causing the wipers to come on bypassing the switch control.

I would start by checking the fluid level in your transmission. If it is fine, then it's possible one of the solenoids in the transmission is going bad. Is the check engine light on? Goodluck

Hope this helps you ??? I don't think you need any specal tools ???