20 Most Recent 2006 Buick Reatta Questions & Answers

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/71016-code-b447/

In a lot of cases it is a bad bulb in the trunk area. Many people overlook the trunk and hood area lights. If they are bad or shorted they will kill the battery within days. A bad pin switch in the door can also go undetected.

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterperates this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Passenger side of engine - top behind power steering

First I suggest scanned the PCM (Powertrain Control Module - computer car) to know if some fault code is stored there; have you some "check engine" light turn on there?Check intake gasket, vaccum leaks and fuel pressure. Other possibilitie, could be CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor. Buick vehicles were very bad about the CKP sensors going bad intermittenly. Replace and test it.Keep us updated. Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

is ur theft light on wen car runs for a few min? could have car locked out in theft mode .u can sometimes clear ur theft deterrent module by closing all ur doors then try locking ur driver door an unlocking it with ur key from outside vehicle. one other thing could b u are using wrong key,or chip in ur key is worn out? one other trick can b to try relearning ur key to module by leaving key in run position for about 20 to 30 min ,then trying to start engine good luck

Did they try loosening a fitting at the brake master cylinder? If the fluid bled out there, I would work my way down the system until I found the restriction. There is a valve in the system, that in the event of a major hydraulic failure, will shut off half of the system, so to preserve the other half for emergency stopping. This valve is probably not returning to center, They should try bleeding other brakes, to see if this resets the valve... I hope this helps.

Although if you suspect a problem with the wheel cylinder, it would be wise to have it checked but shock absorbers are filled with either gas or hydraulic fluid which bares a close resemblance to brake fluid and shocks are more likely to fail than a wheel cylinder. You can do a crude check of shocks by bouncing the car from the suspect corner and watching the action once you let go on a down-stroke; if it rises and drops once, it's likely still good, if it does it more than once before settling, the shock is probably partially empty.

have you checked the fuses and relays? if this wire ran into the relay box, it might have shorted out a relay running a system in the car for the engine, fuel pump, etc. trace the wire back to where it goes. that should give you a start for tracking down this problem. let me know, will help all I can for not being able to see the whole problem

The bolt is usually made is harder steel then the nut so you may get lucky and the only thing that will need to be replace is the Nut.
You can go and buy a Nut Splitter Tool or rent one from a Auto Parts store to remove your bad nut and replace it. Here is what the tool looks like and will most likely be the only thing you can use to removing the nut without damaging anything else.
Thank you for using Fixya and good luck.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_34573_34573

Hi, the CRT for this vehicle is known to need replacing over time. The intergrated electronics coupled with the soldered circuits will always fail. Mileage on the vehicle really never seems to be an issue, however time does. I'm not sure if it is the high temps that are generated during summer months inside the vehicle, but over time it will fail. The only option is to replace the unit. This will cost about $400.00 if you have the dealer perform the removal and install, but if you are able to remove it yourself....there are refurbished units available with a warranty. There is an electronics tech that does refurbishing, and is located on ebay. He charges $150.00 for a refurbished CRT and modifies any factory failures from re-occuring. I wish I had an easier fix, but at least we have another route to approach this problem. Type in Reatta CRT in the search box and it should come up in the item listing. Thanks for using Fixya.

Here are some possibilities you can test yourself. But if none of them resolve your issue, you may need to consult a professional mechanic. Jeff Armer seems to have supplied even more detail. Just how comfortable you are will such procedures may determine just when you choose to go to a professional mechanic. No Crank or Start: This could be due to a weak battery, corrosion on battery terminals, poor starter electrical connection, bad ground connection, or a faulty starter motor. You might want to check the wires to the starter. If the car starts and runs when you jump the starter from underneath, it could indicate an issue with the starter circuit. Key Won't Release: First, ensure your vehicle is in Park and that the steering wheel is not locked. If the key still doesn't turn, try using a spare key, as the original might be worn-out or bent. If the problem persists, you might need to consult a mechanic or replace the ignition switch. Another method to try is to turn the key to the start position, let it fall back to the run position and leave it sit for ten minutes. Cycle the key off and wait five seconds and it should start. The battery has to be fully charged for this to work. Won't Come Out of Park or Won't Read That It's in Park: This could be related to the vehicle's security system. Running a diagnostic check for codes with a scan tool of both the Powertrain control module/ecu and the Body control module could help identify if any codes are stored. The vehicle should crank over in park or neutral.

This will help; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZnC1OakYn0

Take your Rainier out for a drive and see if the cruise control still works. If it does, the VSS is likely fine. If not, the VSS could be the culprit (Vehicle Speed Sensor). Cruise control also depends on throttle position. Ensure that the throttle body and related components are functioning properly. Examine the wiring going to and from the VSS. Look for any damaged or frayed wires. The most common reasons for cruise control malfunction are failed control modules, faulty sensors, or switch issues. While you've already replaced the brake switch module, it's essential to verify that it's functioning correctly. Additionally, check other control modules related to the cruise control system. While you've already replaced the brake switch module, there might be a separate cruise control module. Inspect this module for any signs of malfunction. Powertrain Control Module (PCM): The PCM monitors the signal circuits of the cruise control switches to determine when to capture and maintain the selected vehicle speed. It uses the throttle actuator control (TAC) module motor to control the vehicle speed. That would be something to check. Visually check cable connections and for corrosion. A multimeter can check the battery which can affect the PCM. Sometimes, disconnecting the battery to clear any fault codes can resolve cruise control issues. Possibly that might work even though you see no fault codes.

Have you checked your amplifier?

Might have a bad actuator, which open the access port for warm coolant to enter the heater core.

Question edited to add Translation. We only speak English on this North American website. https://translate.google.ca/ Page 105. Make sure they are turned on at the dimmer. https://www.dezosmanuals.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/1994-Buick-Regal.pdf ..