20 Most Recent 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Check your nearest auto parts store or you will probably find it online.

1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass 5.0L 4BL OHV 8cyl to find the FLASHER...

The Flasher is located: Front seating area, driver side, under dash, passenger side of steering column, mounted behind instrument cluster.

Hope helps.

I don't think there is a specific torque specification. Tighten firmly by hand and check for leaks. Overtightening will damage the threads and cause leaks.

there is a repair kit at the parts store for these "broken lines" in the window - around $11.00 - either you you have a broken wires in the glass or wires leading the power into it,. check the power at the terminal connection along side the window first to be sure..
Best regards
Ck

if brakes are abnormaly hard it your brake booster on drivers firewall with 1/8 hose

there are only so many ways for gas to get into the oil.one someone purposely pured gas into the crankcase.two the engine is running very rich and not able to burn the excess gas,three the fuel pump is leaking gas into the crankcase,four the oil has not been changed regularly and the gas has thinned out to the point that it cannot seal the engine from the gas that normally is burned in the combustion chamber.If maintenance is regularly performed that fixes #4,I doubt that anyone would pour gas into the crankcase especially at the price of gas that fixes #1,if the carburetor is working as it was designed to then that eliminates running rich and fixes #2.if the above is good then the only thing left the fuel pump, can leak fuel into the crankcase and they won`t make noise necessarily.as far as the slight pinging one of two things can cause this, the engine is running slightly lean and or the timing is too advanced and needs to be reset to specs

is it v6 or v8

Change trans fluid and filter. Sounds like valve body in trans is sticking. You might have to do this more than once to "un-gum"

Look on www.youtube.com for a video of some pulling a radio on a mid 80s olds/buck/chevy. there are thousands of car repair videos there. that way you see someone pull one out and can do it yourself. you can buy a replacement on eBay or at a junkyard/recycler. parts for cars more than 10 years old are hard to find, poke around at flea markets and garage sales, always old radios someone pulled for an upgrade laying around. most likely any mid 80s GM car radio will fit.

1. Have the timing checked out to ensure accuracy. The timing must be right to get fire to the plugs.
2. Check the distributor and rotor. Check to make sure the rotor turns as the engine is cranked. If not, check the timing.
3. If the distributor has been replaced and the rotor turns, and you still get no spark, replace the spark plug wires.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Shift cable seized, rusty, or out of adjustment--have qualified person check & fix. If not this--transmission may be bad.

There will be a small wiring harness coming through the carpet under the seat. Once you find it it should be evident how it connects to the seat motor, also under the seat. Please rate this answer, thanks.

i believe it is built in the alternator, an external regulator would be a box on the fender well which you dont have on a 86

english ???

You probably over tightend the positive wire on the alternator and shorted out the terminal inside the alternator.

Make sure your not leaving any lights on when the car is off.. check the wiring at the battery and also at the Alternator to see if any connectors are lose... Also get your Alternator checked it good be defective and not able to recharger your battery anymore.

You're going to need a helper. Put blocks on both front wheels to start and move them to the rear when you switch - also set the emergency brake and make sure vehicle is in first gear or park. Now check your brake fluid reservoir and make sure it is topped up and replace the cap so you don't splash brake fluid everywhere.Your helper will sit behind the wheel and when you say ok, they'll pump the brake pedal 3 times, going from the top of the pedal travel to as low as they can push it. You will need either a 5/16 inch box/open end wrench or socket or an 8 mm box/open end wrench( this depends on what was put in during assembly - I've seen them either way)- I prefer the wrench. Start at the farthest brake from the master cylinder, the right rear wheel.Your car has drum brakes in the rear and disc brakes in the front. Crawl under the car and look at the inside of the rear wheel. You will see a metal line passing inside the disc above the axle and next to the line you will see a small nut looking thing with a nipple - this is the bleeder screw and will be on each wheel in the back, and the part that line and bleeder are on is called a wheel cylinder. Find which wrench fits and break loose by turning counter clockwise. Now retighten just a little, until it snugs, and yell ok out for your helper to start pumping the brakes. When your helper does the third pump they should yell ok as they hold the pedal down as far as they can and you loosen that bleeder just a little and be ready - fluid is going to come out of that nipple in a hurry, along with air bubbles. When your helper's foot hits the floor of the car they should yell "floor!" so you can snug up that bleeder. Repeat procedure until nothing but fluid comes out of the nipple and check the fluid level every third time to make sure you don't **** the reservoir dry - that would be a BAD thing to do ! Next, do the drivers side rear wheel, move chocks, then go to the passenger front . The front has calipers and it is a curved metal component that the metal line goes to a rubber line, then to the caliper. Look for the bleeder towards the top of the caliper, engine side, and repeat bleeding procedure, ending with the drivers side front wheel . Top master cylinder last thing, replace cap and test brakes. If they feel mushy or spongy, then you may have an air bubble or two in the master cylinder and that's a whole other procedure. If you need to bleed the master cylinder, let me know and I'll tell you how to do that job.
Hope this helps and please rate my solution!!
Good luck!!

Have you rebuilt the carb or checked to see if the choke was stuck or working? Those would be good starting points.