20 Most Recent 1990 Oldsmobile Regency - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You need to test your charging system circuits at the alternator. (see diagram and instructions)BLK is the cable to the battery POSITIVE terminal - this is hot at all times.PINK/BLACK comes from Fuse #5 (15 Amp) in the relay center under the right side of the instrument panel. This wire is hot (battery voltage) with the ignition switch in the RUN, BULB TEST, or START positions.BROWN comes from your instrument panel and is protected by Fuse #16 (20 Amp) in the instrument panel left side fuse block. This wire will have slightly less than battery voltage with the ignition switch in the RUN, BULB TEST, or START positions.If any of this is not as described, let me know what you have found and we can continue if needed.

I hope this helps you out.

There are only 2 bolts. They go straight up through the starter motor housing into the engine block. You may have some plastic covers that go around the starter and flywheel area that will need to be removed to get to them.

if the defroster blows then you have actutator doors not opening to the other vents.

you can try tapping (lightly) on the gauge pod to see if the needle moves-it might be hung up but really no one with a GM is that lucky...the sender unit has probably just bought the farm, actually for a 1990, that's pretty good. GM's are notorious for that, you will now have to clear out your tripometer when you fill your tank, and get a handle on how many miles it takes before you get dangerously low on fuel...

Un bolt it pull it out. Most likely it will be a bad magnet on the cam sprocket. Over time they will fall apart. The timing cover will need to come off to repair along with the cam gear.

Under the alternator. Get a grommet too.

grab the tie rod end very tite with vice grips. loosen clamp on tie rod near ball joint fit wrench or more vice grips on ball joint. try to turn the tie rod it would help to soak the threads awhile with w-d 40 or heat the tie rod where it screws in the bal joint with a propane or some type torch. before removing the tie rod count the number of turns it takes to get it out so when you put it back your front end will still be aligned. i believe it would be smart to knock the tie rod end loose before anything else. remove cottre pi and nut from bottom of tie rod end. you can use a tie rod separator that looks like afuning fork or just crawl under the ****** and beat the hell out of the tie rod bolt,not always easy,use heavy hammer.dont beat the bolt if you plan to reuse the tie rod end cause you'll never get a nut back on it. most rental shops have tie rod seperators auto zone loans them usually. good luck from sunny austin fx

If you cant get the nuts off. You need to grind them off or use a torch, you need a tierod fork.

i would recommend one with a 650 -750 cold cranking amps, and i would check for these at walmart. or auto part stores.

Check for ignition spark at the plugs, remove a plug wire and set next to engine metal, crank and see if it sparks. Check for fuel pressure, carefully press the schader valve under the black cap on the fuel rail, it should spray once, if it just trickles, have it checked for actual fuel pressure. Do a quick visual inspection, air filter good, all fluid levels good, no obvious wires damaged, belt condition, etc. If you have fuel and spark and nothing obvious, you need to have it diagnosed at a garage, or scanned for trouble cods at an auto parts store.

The fuel pump will come on then, shut off when the key is placed in the ON position, this is normal. What is not normal, is when the key is turned to start the engine, and the fuel pump does not run when the engine is running at the same time. The initial power up you hear is a prime function that all vehicles have.

WHEN BLEEDING THE BRAKES, YOU MUST HAVE A FULL RESEVOIR WITH CAP ON. START WITH PASS. REAR, PUMP BRAKE PEDLE ALL THE WAY DOWN ABOUT 3 TIMES AND HOLD DOWN. OPEN BLEEDER SCREW TILL NOTHING COMES OUT, THEN CLOSE. REPEAT UNTIL THERE IS NO AIR COMING OUT. IT IS IMPORTANT TO BUILD UP PRESSURE WITH ATLEAST 3 PUMPS IN ORDER FOR THIS TO WORK. REPEAT ON DRIVER REAR, THE PASS. FRONT, THEN DRIVER FRONT. HOPE THIS HELPS.

There's cold solder joints inside the instument cluster find the joints with an OHM meter and touch each side till you find an open one and resolder away and then trset again as your not perfect either. If it doubt resolder them all.

Firing Order 1-6-5-4-3-2 you need to ffind # 1 cylinder pull spark plug take distibutor cap off and torm motor over with yor finger in the plug hole you will hear a poof thats TDC AND look at the distibutor now its pointing to the wire that goes to that plug.. you don't vn ned a fing ord jus lots o time to do it only 5 cylindes, THE 6TH ONE IS MY FREE GIFT TO YOU.. NOT QUITE RIGHT ? YOU CAN MOVE THE WIRES AHEAD 1 ON THE CAP OR BACK 1 .. I TEEMS TO ME THAT THAT MOTOR MIGHT HAVE A HAMONIC BALANCER ISSUE.. CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORE
IF I WAS OF HELP PLEASE TELL ME.. TAHNKS JAY

Pull interior light fuse and the clock fuse, then disconnect the NEGATIVE battery terminal, and place a volt meter in between the terminal and the cable... There should be very little current. You can also wire a light in between the batt and cable, if no voltmeter is available.
Most common issue is diodes in the alternator. Alt can test okay on some tests, and still have an issue. Failed diodes leak power to ground.

So, keep disconnecting stuff until you get no voltage at the meter or light in series with the battery and cable...

With this method, you should be able to find the culprit.

First thing is to remove neg battery terminal, let car sit for 10 mins, this is for your safty with the air bag.next look at the rear of wteering wheel remove the bolts holding the airbag. pull bag up slowly until you have remove to dissconect wires to air bag and horn,.

The air conditioning refrigerant/freon used in Oldsmobile regency is R11 (no longer readily available) so this can be used R134A. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

These cars had a run on a part called the mass air flow sensor, run about 180.00 for part, have the computer scanned to verify.
It is mounted inside the air intake hose in the air filter supply system.