Top 20 1985 Oldsmobile 98 Questions & Answers

Fuel pressure gauge

Under the steering wheel it looks like a place to plug in a computer. You can take a paper clip and jumper 2 of the pins( I don't remember which two) when you get the right two the check light will start flashing short and long spaces. the first will be one then two that means diognostic mode after that you can take those numbers and look in the book or call auto zone and they will tell you what they mean.

no diagram ,sorry , but usually located in the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment and the cover will have list of which is which

Hop this helps http://www.offroaders.com/tech/V8-engine-firing-order.htm

motor size?

Repair Guides Gasoline Fuel Injection System Relieving Fuel System... Try this link. Gopakumar Gopalan Google

Its on the column down under the dash, its switched by a long rod from the key

what car do you have and maybe i can be of assistance

yes it can but more likely it is an internal problem if it is a high pressure. Need to have it flushed.

2 ways you can do it> 1 find the fuse and pull it out but only if it is for the antenna or you can disconnect the antenna wire from the back of your radio, it is normaly a blue wire run with the power harness. Red is 12V. Black is Ground 0V. Yellow is Remote, it works with an AMP if you have one installed. Blue is normaly the power antenna. hope this helps> test it first by pulling the fuse to the radio and if the antenna does not operate then the power is from the radio

Three area that are of concern and who goes out first, cam sensor, cranksensor, ICM. To begine with you are a OBD 1, so you can check codes without a scanner you will just jump the DLC and read the flashing light. The cam sensor is the most popular intermittent failure it is located on the lower right side of the engine,above crank pulley,the code it gives is 41,(four long flashes,one short flash),The next is the crank sensor,This is in front above thhe crank pulley,when this sensor goes out,it stop just anywhere,just like the cam sensor,This wont give a code,the only way you will know if this is not operational is when it stall take one sparkplug wire out leave a a 1/4 air gap between wire and coil crank and inspect for spark.if there is no spark,then you narrowed it down to crank and the ICM.The ICM you need a voltmeter or labscope to troubleshoot it. Now if it was the ICM your battery would be dead long time ago,I am going to say do the most populat failure of them all go with the cam sensor. plus you said its *******.

you must loosen adjusting bolt and mounting bolt be careful where to pry with pry bar you should have some know how .it all depends what belt you AR ajusting

Well, for starters, your problem got posted under 1985 Oldsmobile 98 - then you said it was a 95 Oldsmobile 98 Regency Elite (HUGE difference between 85 and 95)...then it would be REALLY nice to know which engine we are talking about.

I'll just go with what you said last: 1995 Oldsmobile Regency Elite (Two engine possibilities)

If you have the 3.8L Supercharged engine (VIN CODE "1") it is on the left side of the engine near the oil filter.

If you have the non-supercharged 3.8L (VIN CODE "K") there are TWO of them. One is near the oil filter and the other one is in about the same location on the other side of the engine block.

Please also note that MOST fault codes for knock sensors are not caused by the knock sensors themselves. (they do fail, but it is very rare.) Usually there is either a wiring problem to the knock sensor, or the engine has internal problems causing a "knocking" or "ticking" noise which causes the engine computer to "think" that there is a problem with pre-detonation causing an "ignition ping". The code sets when the computer has retarded the ignition timing as far as it can and the "knock" or "ping" does not go away....usually it doesn't go away because it is not caused by ignition timing. The knock sensor is just doing its job and reporting the knock. It does not know the difference between a knock caused by ignition and a knock caused by internal engine problems.

Pull your o2 sensor on the catalytic converter and start it-if it runs right replace and you should be good to go.

Hi,

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This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.

Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

Advisory for all GM built in the 1980's:

1980: General Motors implemented a proprietary interface and protocol for testing of the Engine Control Module (ECM) on the vehicle assembly line. The 'assembly line diagnostic link' (ALDL) protocol communicates at 160 baud with Pulse-width modulation (PWM) signaling and monitors very few vehicle systems. Implemented on California vehicles for the 1980 model year, and the rest of the United States in 1981, the ALDL was not intended for use outside the factory. The only available function for the owner is "Blinky Codes". By connecting pins A and B (with ignition key ON and engine OFF), the 'Check Engine Light' (CEL) blinks out a two-digit number that corresponds to a specific error condition. Cadillac (gasoline) fuel-injected vehicles, however, are equipped with actual on-board diagnostics, providing trouble codes, actuator tests and sensor data through the new digital Electronic Climate Control display. Holding down 'Off' and 'Warmer' for several seconds activates the diagnostic mode without need for an external scan-tool.

Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

Hi, If you see white smoke coming from tail pipe then you will know it is leaking through engine.
I would suggest after you replace head gasket, that you put new radiator fluid (50/50) mix and a new thermostat in. The fluid will keep it from boiling over. Good luck.

on each side of the block just below the heads...

Your going the right direction. Your tranny may be exhausted.

Ouch, there is a short some place in the system and it could be any number of places, this one is best solved by a mechanic.
If you don't want to pay to get it fixed and can live without heat/AC there is a fuse you can pull to turn the fan off so it stops draining your battery at least. Check in the interior fuse panel first for it (before the under hood one). There should be a chart there (possibly on the fuse door) that describes which fuse goes to the fan. remove it and the fan will stop but you wont be able to turn it on again.