Top 20 2003 Mercedes-Benz E-Class - Page 3 Questions & Answers

hi i have mercedes 03 e500 my radio is probles sayed pleas closed

Mercedes E270 cdi 2004 take 6,5 litre oil wit filter thx

Click the link below to troubleshoot this problem: --- Car loses power while acceleration? http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/car-loses-power-while-acceleration.html

---------- Loss of acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html

----------- Acceleration lag problem?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html

-------------- How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-cable.html

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How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html

---------- accelerator pedal sensor?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html

---------- stalls and bucks on Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

--------- Engine accelerates when brake is applied?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/engine-accelerates-when-brake-is.html

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This will help.

Thanks.

Sounds more like rear diff .otherwise drive shaft..get it up on a lift and let them check drive shaft play if none , diff

Your system air condition is controled by a climate control.The panel will be at fault,You can pull a code using a scan tool that reads MBZ climate control,The solution for the fix is the climate control this is a module

Condensation from your a/c can be found dripping off of a car. Make certain it is water and not coolant/antifreeze. If it has a sweet smell (coolant/antifreeze) then you may have a leak.

2003 Mercedes-Benz E-Class Service reset (including brake pads replacement)

a simple yet expensive oil change.... $300.00 plus? Good luck!

Hello
You can't just swap around parts, you must perform actual electrical testing of the brake light circuit to do this use a Digital volt ohm meter (DVOM) to check and see if you have 12 volts at the socket when the brake is pressed, if you do show 12 volts then you need to check the ground wire connection, use an ohm meter and check the ground wire to the socket, should read less than 3 ohms from the ground to the chassis sheet metal, clean and repair as needed to restore ground if a problem is found. Brake lights can be on different fuses, one for left and one for right, check the owners manual for location of the brake light fuses, test them with an OHM meter, they can look ok and be open.

I came across same problem while getting off work after a 13 hour day... any luck I had mine towed to dealer...

SOUNDS LIKE THE POWER UNIT OR MASTER CYLINDER FOR BRAKES HAS GONE BAD. NO MENTION OF PULLING OR GRINDING BUT YOU COULD NEED BRAKE FLUID. I'D CHECK THAT FIRST AND CHECK FOR LEAKS. HOPE THAT HELPS..

You may have a broken wire under the dash not allowing it to turn on. Or it could be a short. But you got a wiring problem under there somewhere.

most likely a leak in the air suspension causing the compreesor to create a battery drainage

In my experience servicing your transmission is often an excellent way to assessthe actual condition and possibly even discover a solution.

Sounds like the transmission is stuck in "Limp Home " mode. Does it reset when you turn off the ignition ?
If it does most likely you have a typical problem of oil in the wiring loom, it seeps through the gearbox connector and through capillary action ends up in the transmission control unit. Sometimes cleaning it up with electrical cleaner works. They sell a kit to prevent it happening in the future, simple to fix.
If it doesn't reset it could still be the above problem.Best get it to a dealer or a good indie with diagnostic software. Its unlikely to be a transmission fault.

as a first step check heating water circulation pump which is in engine compartment.

The service brake uses brake shoes that are within the rear wheel hubs and make no use of the brake pads and rotors. The service brake should be on maximum on the 6th click. There are two points of adjustment. The easiest and most usual is the service brake cable adjustment in the middle of the car, I confess I draw blank here but I think there is an access panel under the rear seat (as per the C class) that permits handbrake cable adjustment without having to do it from under the car. If the service brake cannot be adjusted enough at the handbrake coupling then the each rear hub will need adjusting. First slacken the hand brake coupling - this will allow greater adjustment in future when the shoes have been adjusted. Start with the Left rear wheel. Remove one wheel nut only but leave the wheel on and jack up the car at the back left until the left wheel is free to rotate. Position the empty wheel nut hole at the 1 o'clock position and shine a powerful torch into the hole. Towards the top edge of the hole you should see the toothed edge of the service brake adjustment wheel - you may have to rotate the road wheel backwards and forwards a few degrees to locate it. Insert a screw driver and click the adjustment teeth upwards, one tooth at a time. Keep doing this until the road wheel rotation is stiff, then take about 5 clicks downwards to release the brake shoe contact. Lower the car, put back the removed wheel nut and tighten. Remove a wheel nut from the right road wheel and lift the car until it can freely rotate. Position the nut hole at about 11 O'clock until you can see the adjustment teeth. This time the teeth need to be clicked downwards (note this important difference) until the rotation is hindered. Then click upwards for 5 teeth to release the shoes. When both sides have been adjusted the remaining fine adjustment can be done with the service brake cable adjustment in the middle of the car. The brake should begin to come on at about 3 clicks and be very stiff at 6 clicks with almost all your effort to get to 7 clicks. Unless you drive around with service brake left on the shoes, with occasional adjustment, should last the life of a car. If no amount of adjustment sorts out the service brake the shoes may need replacing and I would leave this to the Mercedes guys as the job is a bit of pain.

hope this helps in some way

check brake light bulbs for fault/washer check water level in bottle/alternator faulty

Have you checked your fuses? Check your owners manual for location of your fuse boxes. Normally under rear seat and under hood in mercedes. Check the reference card in the fuse box for any fuses corresponding to the engine,I.E. engine, Fuel pump,etc. Check those fuses to see if any are blown. If the fuses are all good then it is probably the ecm (electronic control module).