If it is a gasoline engine- check on replacing the thermostat. If it is faulty it will not let your car run warm, making it think it is way to hot too be in operation. part is relatively cheap as well, and labor not too far from that unless you are comfortable under the hood (medium DIY project)
The ballasts take the 12v power of the car and amplify it to 22,000 volts to ignite the lights. After that, they run at a constant 85-95 volts to keep the lights on. You may have a weakness in the electrical system that is causing the battery voltage to drop just enough during startup that the lights won't ignite. Are you turning them on before cranking the engine? You shouldn't do that for a few reasons (if you are) - one, the life of the xenon ballasts can be severely shortened by flickering, and two, having the lights on puts additional strain on the battery while starting, as most of its amperage is needed to turn the engine over. Get a piece of 10 gauge wire (a stereo shop can sell it to you) a couple feet long. Put a ring terminal on each end and attach one to the battery's negative side, and the other to a bolt in the engine bay. This will give your car an additional ground point that can help its conductivity better and it may help to alleviate your problem.
If the problem is simply that the lights will not turn on, you may need either new bulbs or new ballasts. They're very expensive from a Mercedes dealership (on my Audi, the bulbs are over $200 each and the ballasts are even more) but you can find them online for a fraction of that.
post all things that fail and work both
all maters
engine starts , runs , drives ok ,day or night?
all other electrical things on the car ,as in ALL do in fact work correctly?
or just the RADIO on the car fails.
many cars now the RADIO is part of the CAN , the car Area Network. and if that fails so does the RADIO.
if is in fact a factory RADIO there from MB.
what to do.
well
check all fuses first. never skip the easy first step and a 50cent cure..
next scan the USA? OBD2 scan port, and look for Radio errors
like COMM failures codes.
can I assume this RADIO is not SDAR , satelite radio
if is did you path the subscription bills? $$$$$$
or
the RD is base Radio and both are in fact CAN bus controlled
so yes, it must be scanned first, after fuses
sorry this is no simple 80s radio, not at all
and is antitheft protected too.
i request this post be moved to cars and not computers.
here is more than 1 fuse, the RD shows 2, F1 and F2
my online docs, are not so good, on all MB.
get the car scanned in any shop.
see the DTC error codes. next.
Question edited for a lot more clarity.Question moved to model category.Sometimes they are just on, and sometimes the SRS will flash. Connect to a pro grade scan tool computer and look for the diagnostic trouble codes associated with the fault status.https://www.google.com/search?q=Mercedes+W169+SrS+system+light+on..
Question edited for a lot more clarity, and add maker.
Question moved to maker category.
These are all function of the Body Control Module. You need an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer and access to factory technical bulletins.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me
No clues in here.
Immobilizers are designed to prevent what you are needing done. There is no easy way around it. Your best bet is to call a lock smith to cut you a new key and program it to work with your vehicle.
'bonnet', a fellow resident from UK, or maybe Australia. :>D
You normally can't disable alarms as there is a computer in-between the switch and the light on the dash. You have to fix the fault, not find a way around the problem.
The easy way is to connect a professional grade scan tool computer, check for codes and read the data that is registering the problem.
Full 'year make model' in all questions please. Some issues are known issues and can be searched.