20 Most Recent 1998 Mercedes-Benz CLK - Page 2 Questions & Answers

MOST PRPABLY THE ABS IS DEFFECTIVE.

There is no special locking system on the key hub so if it doesn't turn - even when you move the steering wheel around to prevent the antitheft lock to rub strongly on the shaft - it means that the hub itself is defective and will have to be replaced.
To replace it the shrouds on the steering shaft will have to be removed, the electrics disconnected, the old hub forced out, a new hub put in and the entire system re-mated electronically - not a very difficult job, but one that only a dealer can do it . Because of that it will be very expensive.

It sounds like the steering wheel is binding up the ignition. While turning the ignition key, turn the steer wheel back and forth. You will need to apply a bit of force to turn the steering wheel to overcome the binding.

i need power seat diagram for mercedez bens

You may need to run the seat all the way forward then all the way backwards in order to resyncronize the seat. If that doesn't fix the problem then most likely the seat switch is faulty. I've seen this problem several times with the clk and the e-class.

Have head gasket checked for failure (oil in coolant or vise versa) , Thermostat may be bad, scale buildup in radiator, water pump failure, cap failure, fan failure or any number of leaks can cause this

They can check the battery and the charging system for starters. Fully charged battery,clean cables. then do a load test on the battery. If it didn't pass the test replace it and check the charging system.
Charging system easy to check , Put voltmeter on battery terminals and monitor vehicle's voltage with and wthout accessories on. should be between 13.5 to 14.5v . Before condemning alternator inspect wiring behind alternator ...if corroded replace then retest.
If voltage is with range then the problem is in the power distribution compartment/ relay, or either is a ground all those items share.

you should look at Napa auto parts or similar stores and ask for a Hanes or a Chilton manual for your car, they are 2 companies that publish some pretty informative how to manuals for vehicles, they have a wide selection of vehicles they cover going back as far as the 60's as far as i know

check fuse ,relay , wiring and connections for abs system usually a problem with a sensor wire which are located behind wheels something kicking up from the road if good have vehicle scanned some auto stores such as auto zone / advanced auto do it for free the trouble code will give you a start point for your problem

advise dealer of message since they did oil change but check ur oil level, upon start up may have taken longer to build up to normal operating pressure and set off sensor

salvage yards aer a great source for parts
you might be able to get a seat belt out of another mercades also
but be carefull of the year as they will differ

ABS--BAS

Most likely cause is the 'stop lamp switch'
It is a electric switch located on the brake pedal inside the car, about half way up on the brake pedal.
Pretty cheap too, I think the switch is only like $25 bucks.
2 connectors on the switch and then it turns out.
hope that helps

well disconnect it and blow in it if its hard iven the slightest bit its no good change it check the airfilter check the alternater to the feul filter if im not mistakin should be near the rear wheel its metal and cylinder in shape

press the nearside mirror adjust switch and leave it pressed in.

ok, first you have to clear the codes.
in this type of cars you cannot clear codes with a regular obd II it has to be the factory scanner or similar. after you clear the codes drive it for a while. when light comes back on scan it again and that is going to be your true problem. if you replaced the switch but didn't clear the code the light will be still on because the computer doesn't know that you fixed the problem. so try it out and let me know if worked.