20 Most Recent 1990 Mercedes-Benz 190 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Ok there is a number of things that will stop it from revving past 3k from your description I would check the ignition timing for advance mechanical and vacuum .I don't know when you experience the fault or eg while driving or just free reviving in Neutral .
BTW 190e does not have limp home mode so there is a real problem. Hope this helps

My car is a 1993 190e 2.6
For Zero dollars you should check the Over Voltage Protection fuse before spending any more money. When burnt out this thing can really cause some strange things to happen example: ABS light on, low rough idle speed, difficult or no starting without a "jump". My battery was new, the starter and alternator were fine. I was Lucky enough to know an expert he took one look at it swaped that fuse and all was good. Immediatly good idle, ABS light went out, Car starts great.
Check it first!
By the way you can change the brushes on your starter with out even removing it from the car.

check all your sensors. then check the computer. if something is failing like the O2 sensor, then that would be your problem

You may a misfire in the ignition system (Spark)

Chilton publishes useful manuals for foreign cars. When I was running Mercedes diesels I relied on them. Haynes makes another useful manual for the MB. Haynes and Chilton can be reached at  Sparkford Near Yovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ England.

have you tried replacing the fuse on the overload protection relay? This is located behind the battery, behind a thin plastic sub panel which houses the relay and other electronics. The relay is about 1 1/2" square X 2" tall, and has a flip cover to get to the fuse or fuses. Some models have a single 10A fuse, others have two. You might check these before going to much further. I have found that by jumping the car, you can blow the fuses, and very possibly the OVP as well. Good lock!

Look on Ebay. I bought all kinds of used parts for my Mercedes, (3) 300 TDS and a 300SD. Parts are plentiful for these models and very affordable on Ebay, or perhaps even Craigs List. There is a Mercedes Benz internet forum where members post their sales and needs. I don't know what the import laws are in Malaysia, but I cannot imagine the imposts are high on used auto parts.

It should be either just above the air conditioning compressor, or on the opposite side. It will have two wires coming out - a red wire ( 12 volt plus) and a black ground wire. The a/c compressor has metal fittings and rubber hoses as well as a clutch. No need to touch the a/c compressor. I changed alternators on my 300D models and 300 SD. They are very much the same. You will need to loosen the adjustment slider and physically slide the alternator to loosen the belt. Remove the wires from the alternator - probably a plug at the rear. If the car has a single serpentine belt the problem is more complex because so many units run off the same belt, including the water pump, fan and a/c compressor. Restoring proper tension is critical. The alternator swings in a vertical arc on a long bolt on the bottom or side that runs from front to rear.  Replacement is not difficult - hold the new unit in place while you insert and tighten the long bolt, then reposition the tension slider and tighten that bolt. The tension needs to be correct or else the belt will slip and squeal and your battery will not charge properly. You may need a crowbar the achieve the right tension while you tighten the tension slide. Instead of replacing the alternator altogether, why not just replace the brush on a round plate at the rear. Most alternator failures involve worn brushes. The rebuilders simply replace them and sell a "rebuilt" unit. Make sure you can get brushes and/or a brush assembly before you start.. Loosen the tension but do not remove the alternator. Remove the two small nuts that hold the brush assembly at the rear and slide it off. Replace with the new one.  Be sure you retract the brushes so they will slip back over the armature, and align with the retaining screws. Tighten them. Re-tension the belt and you're home free. I have done this on the road when necessary. Easier and cheaper than changing the entire alternator.

sorry put it scrapyard ..its was RHD and i couldnt give it away

in 190d ,engine 2.0.l diesel this thing is lokated near oil filter.

hi,sounds like you have a badfuel pump relay or a going bad fuel pump,good luck.....

this is probably the relais. You will find it as a black box behind the plastic cover which is located behind the battery.
I remember the bones 87 and the one infront were the responsible ones for the fuel pump.
Thus disassemble it and test the three small relais you will find inside.

Cheers.

Afif

if this car is diesel then you have problem with vakum.you are out of vakum.

There's this website www.reliable-store.com They have books on ALL vehicles. it covers wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, fuse diagram, torque specs, PCV, error codes, fault codes, service info, repair info, parts info, owner's/service/repair/parts/maintenance manuals etc everything totally.. I have 1987 toyota 4runner model and I keep servicing and when needed repair it on my own. worth it !!!

Go to www.reliable-store.com you will get all info and solutions there definitely

Google images has it

sunroof module may need replacing, this tells the window to open and close also adjust window when doors locked, works of a magnetic alignment, but the reader can go on them, so you just need to replace this part, its bolted on or near the motor and the motor wires go into the unit. just replace with same part number.

Not sure what you mean as far as i know there is none the ecu regulates all this type of thing

Sounds like a Starter remove it and test it on the battery keep a tight hold as it turns quit sharpley if it works its possible it could bevthe cylanoid replacevthe full starter its just as cheap mine was 90 pound originall merc part