Top 20 2000 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 5 Questions & Answers

This could be one of two problems, or possibly both:1. The blend door actuator is not working. Take off the panel below the glove box on the passenger side floorboard. You are looking for a small flat control a bit smaller than a pack of cigarettes. It is located on the bottom of the dash area, just to the right of the transmission hump. As you turn the switch from heat to cool and back, this actuator should move a shaft coming out of the bottom of the heat/AC box and into the middle of this actuator. You will also hear a motor type noise from it while moving the control. If this is faulty, you may have issues with the control sticking on heat or cool, or possibly not switching at all (as in your case). A failure in this component could also be caused by a bad switch in the controls on the dashboard, but this isn't as likely. 2. The heater core is blocked. There are two hoses going through the firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment. They are roughly the same side as a garden hose, maybe a little thicker, and go through the firewall adjacent to each other. With the truck warmed up, carefully feel each hose. Are they both similar in temperature? If not, the coolant flow in the heater core is likely partially or completely blocked. Try flushing it with a garden hose while it is disconnected from the remainder of the heating system. If you have a complete blockage, you may not be able to flow any water through the heater core. Be careful not to use too much pressure, as you don't want to risk rupturing the heater core, especially if it is already corroded.I hope this helps, as I have been through the same issue with my Tahoe. Good luck!

the only time you should have to bleed the brakes is if you opened a bleeder screw, repaired a brake line, replaced a brake hose, replaced a caliper/wheel cylinder, or replaced the master cylinder. If you have not opened up the hydraulic system than it is not necessary to bleed the brakes.It can be beneficial to flush the brake system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it likes to absorb moisture. If your brake fluid is dark in color or even green (green color is caused by the erosion of the inside of the brake lines do to water contamination) it wouldn't hurt to flush the brake system. this would essentially be bleeding all four corners until clear fluid comes out. Water in the brake system reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid which can lead to brake failure under extreme braking conditions. Let me know if you have any questions and thank you for using FixYa.com! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Go look over at chevy truck forum and search, you will find the answer there.

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle.This link should help you out.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

disconnect the positive cable off the battery for ten mins. then reconnect and the light should go out. but if there are any codes on the computer that need to be addressed it will come back on

your blower motor has a rheostat that regulates the speed they will call this a resistor at the parts counter. So you need a blower motor resistor to fix your problem-good luck.

SEE IF YOU TRIGERED THE NURSHA SWITCH WITCH SHUTS OFF FUEL IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT. THE RESET IS IN A COMPARTMENT IN BACK POP THE HATCH AND ON SIDE WALL YOU WILL SEE A COMPARTMENT OPEN IT WILL BE A CABLE WITH EITHER A YELLOW OR RED TAG ON IT JUST PULL THE CABLE TO RESET AND SEE IF THE CAR WILL START ALSO CAN LOOK IN OWNERS MANUAL UNDER FUEL WILL HELP YOU LOCATE THIS

First and foremost, check the cars battery. Take to an auto parts store to have it tested. The other issue could be fuses. Check every single one. There is a fuse block under the hood near the battery. The other one is in the side of the dash on the left side. From experience I learned that there are more functions for one particular fuse than what is shown on the panel. Example... in my 1996 Tahoe, the fuse that controls the inside lights also controls the power mirriors. Everything is different so refer to an owners manual. Beyond checking the battery and fuses, if that doesn't work then have a dealership look at it.

How much exhaust is coming out, sounds like a collapsed muffler/clogged catalytic converter. Run it for about 20 minutes in your driveway, being careful, NOT TO TOUCH components. Move your hand from rear to front, it should feel about the same amount of heat coming off all the rear most pipes. Very hot toward front. If a blockage, as your hand passes over the parts of the system, you will feel a difference.

This code does not indicate necessarily a problem with a transmission control switch. It is a serial data code, and some more diagnostics will need to be done. You will need to check for codes on the ECM (Engine Control Module), the TCM (Transmission Control Module) and the EBTC (Electronic Brake Traction Control) modules to isolate this problem. Here is the description on this code.

DTC P1779, P1780, P1791, P1792, or P1795
The engine control module (ECM), transaxle control module (TCM), and the body control module (BCM) communicate with each other over the controller area network (CAN) BUS circuits 2500 and 2501. The CAN BUS is a communications protocol that is used by the TCM to communicate vital engine control inputs from a stand-alone engine controller. The diagnostic checks the information received in CAN to determine whether to pass or fail a code. Before checking the information, the TCM makes sure the CAN messages are being received by checking the BUS failure timer.

DTC P1779, P1791, P1792 or P1795 will set if the TCM did not receive a needed engine parameter over the CAN BUS from the ECM when:
• Engine speed is greater than 500 rpm for 5 seconds and not at fuel cutoff.
• System voltage between 8 and 18 volts.
• This code does not indicate a problem with the TCM. It does indicate the ECM is not sending the required information to the TCM.
• Check for and diagnose any DTCs stored in the ECM related to the ECT, pedal position or TP sensor circuits.
• Check for any DTCs stored in the EBTCM related to the torque reduction/request circuit.

Check in THIS LINK additional information about DTC P1780.

Hope helps.

No there is not, That is if you are referring to the fuel pump. You have an under hood fuse box in it you will have a fuse that protects the fuel pump circuit, a fuel pump relay, and wiring from there to the fuel pump which is located in the fuel tank. If you are not getting any fuel most likely the fuel pump has failed and will need replaced, Install a new fuel filter as well.

Unhook one battery cable, positive usually. Now hook a multimeter between the battery post and the cable. With everything off it should read zero volts or close to that. then switch the meter to measure current (amperage) it should read zero again (or very slightly above that as the radio memory draws a small amount.
If it isn't zero or low then you have an item that is staying on and draining your battery overnite. Time to troubleshoot what it may be.

It is probally in 4 wheel drive. It is supposed to **** while turning in 4 wheel drive because all 4 tires are trying to turn at the same speed and when you turn one tire slows down and the other tire speeds up but it cant in 4 wheel drive so it skips or jerks. If there is also a clicking noise the CV joint might be going out.

Sounds like you might have a weak fuel pump.Check your fuel pressure first it should be 48-55 psi if its not within specs replace pump.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome Amanda. Your tire might be hitting the front corner of the fender when you are turning. Your rim could be bent also or a bad tire. It could also be your brake shoes rubbing the rotor. They may have come loose, need adjusted, or need changed. If they need changed, you usually will hear high pitch squealing. You could also have a bad caliper.

Loose battery cable at the starter end, or sensor trouble, tighten cables, see if this helps, usually does, I get 50.00 per hour to check this, I render this 4 free 2 u.
Thnx 4 using fixya.com

right hand side of engine compartment under the, I can't remember what is under, it's in the middle of the inside right fender on the top, it's hidden a bit, follow the a/c line from the dryer,

Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Is the check engine light ON? Did you scan the car for any error codes?

Hi, your factory wire colors are below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

2000 Chevrolet Tahoe Car Radio Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2? Speakers
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2? Speakers
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

There should be no hidden fuse or relay for the standard wiring. If you wire the ignition system directly the battery you should get the starter going. It may be the contacts on the ignition switch itself or the ignition switch. The contacts may just not touch each other correctly.