20 Most Recent 1993 Chevrolet Corvette - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Nice car. Did not see if fan rpm went up when you turned the switch. Also you need to have a A/C temperature thermometer for the vent. You could have a combination of problems. Check vent temperature on A/C.

There is a blower speed control switch in the ductwork. You may want to replace that part. Not being totally familiar with your car, if you can remove your blower and then operate the fan switch you will hear and see any change in fan rpm. This will let you know if the ductwork is blocked or if the blower is unresponsive.

When you get the fan and ductwork problem figured out, there are some different Freon additives which make the system work colder. Autozone and O'Reillys both carry these products as well as the thermometer. On the really elaborate A/C systems there are "Solar Index" components and the parts store can check if yours has it.

Since most Vette owners are car smart, I assume you have checked how the A/C is cycling and if the components are cold or sweating under the hood. Sometimes weak "low pressure" switches can cut off the compressor too soon.

Wish I had one single solve all answer for you, but you have probably put alot of time on your problem already. Good Luck.

Maintenance Tips for the 1993 Corvette var PUpage="76001086"; var PUprop="geocities"; var thGetOv="http://themis.geocities.yahoo.com/themis/h.php"; var thCanURL="http://us.geocities.com/bayrunner.geo/tips.html"; var thSpaceId="76001086"; var thIP="98.209.128.69"; var thTs="1246845368"; var thCs="6981120dde4e4a9624cfe38b826ba950"; Repairing the Lumbar Pump in the seats


I have been told that this repair was covered in the May 1995 issue of Corvette Fever Magazine, although I do not have a copy of this article.



Tools and material required:
5/16 wrenches, one unlined latex rubber glove, #1 Phillips screwdriver, and a flashlight.



Diagnostic procedure:
When my car was approximately 7 years old both lumbar pumps in the seats stopped working. This is not something that I adjust every time I use the car so I had a difficult time believing both pumps would stop working at the same time. I first suspected a wiring problem. From the shop manual I learned that the power to the pumps comes from the same buss as the power for the motors that move the seat in all other directions. I also learned that power is available to the seat motors and pumps at all times, you don’t have to have the key turned on to make the lumbar pumps operate. When the car was running I could not hear the faint clicking sound the pumps made when I pressed the pump switch. It was only with the engine off that I could hear the pump click, as if trying to start when the switch was pressed. This told me that the problem was in the pump.
There are two procedures here for replacing the diaphragms. The first one is my first attempt at repairing the pump and is the long version. The second procedure is the short version and also the easy way to do it.



Disassembly:
Access to the pump motors is gained by raising the seat cushion in the front of the seat. In the bottom front of the seat is a metal wire about 3-4 inches long that when pressed down and towards the back of the seat, releases the seat cushion. Lifting the seat cushion 5-6 inches exposes the pump motor and motor wiring. The pump is held to the seat frame with three 8x32 by ½ long bolts. The bolts can only be removed from the underside of the seat. I did this by using a flashlight to see the bolts, placed my head on the floor mat, and loosened the bolts from below the seat. The pump motor feet have recesses for the nuts so it is not possible to loosen the nuts from the pump side of the seat until the bolts are loose. Disconnect the wiring for the motor at the two connectors located under the seat cushion. The three tygon tubes that connect the pump to the lumbar switch can be disconnected at the pump. Carefully pry each tube off the pump. It appeared to me that there was very little slack in the tubing and therefore the tubing could not be cut off of the pump.



The end plate on the pump is removed by removing the two Phillips head screws. Once I had the end plate removed the pump could be separated from the motor. The diaphragm in my pump was completely ruptured. The plunger that connected the diaphragm to the motor shaft was jammed and this is why I could not hear the pump run even though power was getting to the motor. This is what caused the clicking sound when the pump switch was pressed.

Replacing the ruptured diaphragm:
I used part of the pump to trace a circle on the rubber glove approximately 1.25 inches in diameter. Use only the smooth part of the glove. Carefully punch or cut a hole for the screw that holds the pump cam to the diaphragm. Note that the hole in the pump cam must line up with the offset rod on the end of the motor shaft. I lubricated this rod with a drop of silicone lubricant before putting the pump back together. I tested the operation of the pump by connecting it to a 12 volt battery charger, with the white wire being positive. From the picture on the right you can see that the diaphragm has a large hole in the center where the pump cam attaches.
Diaphragms can also be purchased from the pump manufacturer, Jasco Products. They are located in Sun Valley, CA, and their phone number is 818-504-2516.
Place the pump back into the seat and redo all the mechanical and electrical connections. This job took me about 1 hour.






The short procedure:
This procedure removes the pump assembly from the motor and while the pump motor remains bolted to the seat. Remove the wire rod holding the seat cushion to expose the pump. Remove the two Philips screws in the end of the pump without removing the pump motor from the seat. Slide the pump assembly off of the motor. Replace the diaphragm as noted above. I had to use a mirror to align the pump cam to the motor shaft. Using this procedure, the repair took me about 45 minutes. I didn't save as much time as I had expected to, as I found it difficult to align the motor shaft and pump cam, and also to put the bottom screw back into the end plate of the pump.
In a new after-market parts catalog that I just received (Sept 2000), the pump goes for $85 and the repair kit for a the pump is $40. I paid less the $2 for the rubber latex gloves to fix mine.


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Hi, If it's anything like 1993 chevy then you will need to remove the drivers side rear wheel and the inside wheel housing. Once you have donee that you should have full access to the antenna.

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you will need to buy a picture diagram (schmetric)

no if they did not get the pin right in the computer have them tow it back and redo the key fob and computer.

This could be cause by a variety of problems such as low coolant, bad water pump, head gasket leak, manifold leak, malfunctioning fan clutch, broken electric fan, etc etc.

If you have an electric fan, it is designed to turn on triggered by a temperature sensor located near your top rad hose mounting on the intake manifold. If this sensor is broke you will over heat without the fan kicking in at stops. Same with a clutched fan. Could be not moving enough air at a stop.

Check your coolant levels and let your vehicle run while watching to be sure your fan kicks in. Keep your fingers away from it while running. It can start up anytime. If all is well, you may have a plugged rad or restricted rad.

Replace the seat motors. that's what you get for buying a Corvette!

Give these instructions a shot. Might be too generic but might be enough to get you going. Removing Original Antenna
1. Step 1 Activate the antenna switch to the up position.
   
2. Step 2 Using the wrench or needle-nose pliers, loosen and remove the original retaining nut on the base of the antenna mast.
   
3. Step 3 Gain access to the underside of the area where the antenna is located.
   
4. Step 4 Remove the bracket or brace that is below the hole and holding the antenna in place.
   
5. Step 5 Remove the mast.
   
6. Step 6 Find the motor that controls the antenna mast. Generally, power antennas will have a constant 12-volt lead and a ground lead. The ground lead will be grounded to the panel next to the motor.
   
7. Step 7 Remove the ground lead from the panel.
   
8. Step 8 Pull out the antenna coaxial cable.
   
9. Step 9 Unplug the coaxial from the extension coaxial cable.
   
10. Step 10 Remove the original antenna coaxial cable. Note the route the cable follows.
    Installing the New Power Antenna
11. Step 1 Inspect the fender area where the antenna mast will be mounted for rust.
    
12. Step 2 Clean the area before installing the new antenna.
    
13. Step 3 Plug the new antenna coaxial cable to the extension coaxial cable. (On some General Motors and Ford cars you may need an adapter to mate the 2 cables together. Car audio retail stores sell such an adapter.)
    
14. Step 4 Plug the new antenna's coaxial cable into the radio's chassis antenna jack if there is no extension coaxial cable. Tie or tape the string you put on the extension cable to the new antenna coaxial cable. This assures that the 2 cables stay together as you route them to the antenna mount in the fender.
    
15. Step 5 Connect the power lead of the antenna to the power antenna lead on the radio.
    
16. Step 6 Connect the 12-volt constant lead to the antenna to a 12-volt source or to the ignition switch.
    
17. Step 7 Direct the new antenna cable via the same route followed by the original antenna cable on up to the hole in the fender in which the mast will be mounted.
    
18. Step 8 Ground the ground lead from the motor to a clean metal surface on the metal panel near the mount.
    
19. Step 9 Insert the mast into the hole. Face the serrated side of the plastic cable on the bottom of the mast toward the motor side. The plastic cable can be inserted freely to about 12 inches and will stop.
    
20. Step 10 Turn on antenna switch to down position until the plastic cable goes down and catches into the gear mechanism of the drum housing. If the plastic cable does not gear into the mechanism, twist the cable slightly until the cable contacts into the gear mechanism while the motor is in operation.
    
21. Step 11 Stop the motor after the cable goes into the housing 12 to 25 inches.
    
22. Step 12 Secure the bracket or strap to the bottom of the antenna mast and to the metal fender.
    
23. Step 13 Replace the retainer nut to the base of the antenna mast and secure tightly.
    
24. Step 14 Replace the panel that covers the antenna mount area.
    

Replace blower module ( contains shorted resistors ) located near the blower motor.( 2-3 connectors) DISCONNECT MODULE FIRST TO SEE IF BLOWER SHUTS OFF. Hope yjis helps

Your ECU (ECM) is sensitive. Incorrect wiring has made it faulty and must be replaced.
There is no end-user fix to the ECU.

Thanks for using FixYa.

MY POWER SEATS WILL GO UP & DOWN AND WILL TILT FORWARD & BACKWARDS BUT WILL NOT GO FORWARD OR BACKWARDS. IT JUST MAKES A HUMMING SOUND WHEN TRYING TO GO FORWARD OR BACKWARD. IS THE POWER SEAT SYSTEM A GEAR SYSTEM, OR HYDRAULIC SYSTEM?

Check compression on engine and if that's good then check injectors(may be bad) . The key to use when checking compression with a compression guage is NOT have your reading be more than psi difference between cylinders. For example is cylinder #1 is 150 psi and cylinder #2 is 172psi then there is a problem like a burnt valve or something . From my experience these types of misses usual come from bad plugs, wires or bad injectors. Good luck and thanks for using FIX YA

There is a way to retrive the diagnostic codes in the A/C system by holding 2 buttons at the same time on the panel. I did this many years ago to solve a problem on my '92 Roadster. I got the info from corvetteforum.com Post your problem at corvetteforum.com. There are many experts there that will help.

If it still does it, locate the fuse panel and with the car off, pull a fuse and measure the current draw.  Be careful.  Make sure your meter is on HI AMPS.

On this website you should find it https://www.autogenius.info/category/chevrolet/chevette/

C4 Corvette 1984-1987 CNC Machined Headlight Gears - Large/Small ' Corvette Mods

How about reverse ??

Body & Frame Hardware Parts (corvettemods.com)

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Try a little starting fluid in the intake (not too much, just enough to test). If it takes off for a second or so, may be water in gas. Ten months old? It should be alright, unless it's loaded with water.