2004 Buick LeSabre - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Yes it's on the right side othe transmission just above the passenger side cv axle. You most likley need to send the cluster off and have it checked. Model Electronics in NY.

I have the same problem. The plastic posts on the arm rest broke off and the 2 screws at the hinge have nothing to bite into. What did you end up doing? Were you able to glue with something? They want to sell you the whole center console for 300 and I only need the lid part. I was thinking some epoxy but I doubt that will hold.

Have you replaced the thermostat in the coolant system? This is the usual reason for an engine overheating.

Hope you can read diagram. The two orange wires are voltage to ddm. One of them, power window circuit breaker--30 amp. the other is fuse 7--10 amp drvmdl. Both hot all the time, use test light to check. The two wires, bottom left, are grounds, black wire with white tracer and black wire. If you suspect a ground problem, you could try a redundant ground, just a jumper wire that goes to clean metal spot.

Do static compression test, then cylinder leak down test

Key locking mechanism is failing (cylinder mechanical action) - need to replace the assembly (see a locksmith or dealer)..

You can see in the video bellow The bulb can be found on ebay/Amazon or according to me Aliexpress Homepage It's the biggest and cheapest worldwide suplier. Just type the correct name into the searchbox and thats it wish you luck

First thoughts is to check the voltage at the wiper motor. It the motor has power, the motor probably has failed. If there is no power at the motor, look for a short or some connection has come loose.

You will need to replace the headlight wiring harness to that light.

Follow the fuel vent line (comes from the fuel tank) to the engine,it will be on that line at the engine.

Does it have factory anti theft ?

Try some Lucas Transmission fix. that stuff has done wonders for almost all of my tranny problems

Jack up the rear of the car. For safety's sake put jack stands supporting rear of car. Remove driver's side rear wheel. Pop of small plastic door around filler tube from inner fender( it just snaps back in place). Loosen hose clamp that secures the filler tube to the rubber boot inlet to fuel tank. The top of the old filler neck is supported by a large round rubber grommet.where it sticks through the round hole into the filler area behind the filler door. This grommet is rubber, but has a steel band inside inside of it. This grommet just slides over the filler neck. Unplug the wire from the metal end of the tube that is plugged into the metal rim ( this is a ground for static electricity when you are fueling the car. Don't leave this out when re-assembling ) See if you can now push the old tube out( the grommet may push out staying on the tube ). If it will not come out, you may have to loosen the grommet by working on it up top to loosen it, and then pull the grommet off from the end of tube. Don't destroy it. It will need to be re-used. Take the grommet, and push it onto the top of the new filler tube until it will go no further. Take some oil or transmission fluid, and coat the end of the filler tube where it will go into the lower rubber boot where the bottom of the filler tube goes into the gas tank. Also coat the inside of that rubber boot. Feed the new filler tube in from the top, twisting it some back and forth as you push down on it forcing into that lower boot, until that grommet fits snugly back into the hole supporting the top of the tube. Re-attach the static ground wire to the inside of the fender. Once the tube is fully seated in the top grommet, and the bottom of the filler is down into the rubber boot, tighten the hose clamp to secure the tube to the boot. Before you tighten that clamp, make sure the hole where the filling station nozzle goes into the tube, is on the bottom 6 o'clock position. Snap the little plastic door back on where the filler tube goes through the inner fender. Do not force the tube when working with it, It is made of some sort of polyethylene, which is famous for nothing sticking to it very well. The top of the tube is a separate piece that is used on all kinds of other cars, so it is plastic welded, or glued to the tubes for specific applications. Any kind of glue or plastic welding on this material will not be a very strong bond, so treat it like it is a little fragile, because it is.. Odds are pretty good that many people were told that their initial problem was the gas cap, so they bought an aftermarket gas cap. I HIGHLY recommend either using the original GM cap if it still seals well, or buying a new one off of our favorite internet auction site. Again, this is because of the weak point where the top of the tube is attached to the rest of the tube body. The ratcheting action of the oem cap is much lighter than most of the aftermarket caps, and slips on and turns easier. I found that to be true, and that is why I was privileged to do this operation twice.

If you can see & access the wire's I will go for the splice action. Get some new wire some zip tie's and wire nut's. And start reattaching the wire's look closely so you can match the color to color for example you don't want to attach a red wire to a green wire. After you're done use the zip tie's to snug the wire's out of the way of anything. This will do till you decide to take it to be repaired. Here's a photo of a wire nut in use.

The blower motor control processor ! HVAC BLO fuse #2 30 amp -location ,rear fuse box . It is under the back seat . This is s different GM vehicle ,but still the same as your's. Chevy Trailblazer EXT Blower Motor Won Turn Off

Check the MAP sensor for accuracy as they can trigger a EGR code .

I had a 92 Lesabre and had the same trouble. My mechanic by passed the switch in the dash with a toggle switch. I used that till I got rid of the car but the blower would run full speed by doing that. Now in saying that the switch in the dash was automatic temperature control. Not sure if yours is that way.

It may be that the speedo cable has come loose at 1 end and will need to be tightened back up. Sorry but not sure where ends are attached on your car.

This is the image for the coil packs. The 3.1,3.4 engine has cylinders 1.3.5 on the back side of the engine. 3.8 have cylinders 1.3.5 on the front.

The solenoids are internal ! But if it were a solenoid problem the check engine light would come on . There are a lot of variables involved in the shifting of electroniclly controlled transmissions , it's all part of the engine management strategy programmed into the PCM - engine computer . I would take and have it checked before guessing about parts problems . A good qualified repair shop would hook up a professional grade diagnostic tool and road test the vehicle . With-in a few miles they would know for certain .