20 Most Recent 1991 Buick Reatta Questions & Answers

bad horn.

Why not just rplace the relay, or the wires to the relay?

Put a pressure tester on it and look where it is coming out. You say it's by the firewall, it may be one of the hoses that go to the heater.

I don't think you should be charged more than a couple of hundred dollars if just the hangers are being replaced. It ought to be far less, as hangers are not expensive. Maybe its just a bushing & that would be really cheap. Go to a shop that will give you a free estimate, have them put it on a lift and show you exactly what is wrong, get a written estimate - then you can take the car home and call around to other shops to see exactly what they will charge to change that or those parts. This will also help you reduce your costs, especially since you are now informed, and can dicker with the shop. Hope this helps you, Rick

This light indicates the AC compressor is turning off and on (cycling) to often in a set period of time, this is caused by a low system charge, you need to have your system checked for leaks and then topped off, in most cases the light comes on before the system stops cooling.

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/71016-code-b447/

In a lot of cases it is a bad bulb in the trunk area. Many people overlook the trunk and hood area lights. If they are bad or shorted they will kill the battery within days. A bad pin switch in the door can also go undetected.

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM (Theft Deterrent Module). These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car misinterperates this as an attempt at theft and goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. This is why the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. This link explains it pretty well.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

Passenger side of engine - top behind power steering

First I suggest scanned the PCM (Powertrain Control Module - computer car) to know if some fault code is stored there; have you some "check engine" light turn on there?Check intake gasket, vaccum leaks and fuel pressure. Other possibilitie, could be CKP (Crankshaft Position) sensor. Buick vehicles were very bad about the CKP sensors going bad intermittenly. Replace and test it.Keep us updated. Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

is ur theft light on wen car runs for a few min? could have car locked out in theft mode .u can sometimes clear ur theft deterrent module by closing all ur doors then try locking ur driver door an unlocking it with ur key from outside vehicle. one other thing could b u are using wrong key,or chip in ur key is worn out? one other trick can b to try relearning ur key to module by leaving key in run position for about 20 to 30 min ,then trying to start engine good luck

Did they try loosening a fitting at the brake master cylinder? If the fluid bled out there, I would work my way down the system until I found the restriction. There is a valve in the system, that in the event of a major hydraulic failure, will shut off half of the system, so to preserve the other half for emergency stopping. This valve is probably not returning to center, They should try bleeding other brakes, to see if this resets the valve... I hope this helps.

Although if you suspect a problem with the wheel cylinder, it would be wise to have it checked but shock absorbers are filled with either gas or hydraulic fluid which bares a close resemblance to brake fluid and shocks are more likely to fail than a wheel cylinder. You can do a crude check of shocks by bouncing the car from the suspect corner and watching the action once you let go on a down-stroke; if it rises and drops once, it's likely still good, if it does it more than once before settling, the shock is probably partially empty.

have you checked the fuses and relays? if this wire ran into the relay box, it might have shorted out a relay running a system in the car for the engine, fuel pump, etc. trace the wire back to where it goes. that should give you a start for tracking down this problem. let me know, will help all I can for not being able to see the whole problem

The bolt is usually made is harder steel then the nut so you may get lucky and the only thing that will need to be replace is the Nut.
You can go and buy a Nut Splitter Tool or rent one from a Auto Parts store to remove your bad nut and replace it. Here is what the tool looks like and will most likely be the only thing you can use to removing the nut without damaging anything else.
Thank you for using Fixya and good luck.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_34573_34573