20 Most Recent 2003 Oldsmobile Alero - Page 5 Questions & Answers

recheck for vacuum leaks and if good then check the EGR system if it has one.

replace cruise control module

It uses a rolling code which means it changes every time and prevents anyone else from gaining access to your vehicle. The transmitter and the body control module have to be synchronized to send and recieve signals in the right order. I believe you have to get it re-synchronized at the dealer. They have special tools to communicate with your car. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kim_3202917d7c587455

Here's a link on removing your cv axle. http://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f8036e76f

Do u know where the accelorator cable is under the hood? If so there will be a small screw that a small flathead screwdriver will fit in and that is your idler.

What engine does yours have , 2.2l or 3.4l ? Either way there is no adjustment if 3.4l put the rockers arms on Coat the rocker arm friction surfaces using Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) GM P/N 1052367 (Canadian P/N 992869) or the equivalent. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section. Install the valve rocker arm bolts. Tighten Using the J 36660-A tighten the bolts to 19 N?·m (14 lb ft) plus an additional 30 degrees. non adjustable !

http://www.ehow.com/how_4520010_replace-turn-signal-relay-oldsmobile.html

When you say it is "pushing out coolant" you should be able to identify where the coolant is coming from. If the coolant is leaking beneath the vehicle from the firewall, it is a leaking heater core. If there is no evidence of leak but the coolant is disappearing, and there is white smoke coming from the tailpipe when the vehicle is running, it is a bad head gasket.

This may be related to the antitheft system The system is known for turning off the starter and/or injectors when it fails. Is there a light on the dash that says SECURITY? This is a common problem worth looking into.

These old rear seats generally have 2 clips that hold them in; just pull up and away from the trunk and it should come free. Do no that being an older car, those clips might be warn out or broken as they are just plastic. On my 2000 Grand Am they were worn out but it still hold enough for me.

You will need an EZ-out and the proper drill bit for it. Be sure to use the correct one for that bolt size. They're available at any auto parts store.

Most likely a plastic vent line is kinked, pinched, or a fitting is cracked above the fuel tank. http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/p0446.html Very easy to miss this happening when reinstalling the fuel tank. Unfortunately, the only way to find out is to remove the tank and inspect. Don't forget, the evap system includes the fuel tank, which must be sealed. If the O-ring on the sender is even slightly out of place, you may not get a leak, but you'll get a code.

Here are Bunch of Well Known Pain in @#$@!%^^$# GM issues to check on ++ any or 2 or more will cause Surging and Stalling ....I am thinking O ring on Fuel injector gets Hot and Loss of Pressure occurs via Cracks in rubber seals ..This occurs in Turn motion when fuel in Rail is sloshed around . Even though pressure allows good starting the Heat 2 Plastic engine parts causes Expansion so a Crack that does not Visible Leak cold will If Searched for Hot ..Recommend a Strong Light even in Daytime to see if Leaks around Intake / Fuel injection areas .. Upper intake Plenum Air intake Gasket NOT SEALING right is common Hot issue on GM s ...Its a V6 the misfire tell me this right away ..Did it misfire before Tune Up ?? Even if it did the issue Now is Spark Plug wires have been Crossed or Wired out of Sequence / Order ...SOLUTION will cover many checks you must make . 1 st be sure Plug # 1 and each firing order Plug wire is matched up To proper ## on Magneto or Black plastic squarish box near valve cover ..OFTEN firing order was Clockwise on Ford / GM - that is old Distributor days ... Magneto driven is Left 2 Right.....Idle Surge is Present under Mis Wired conditions BUT you may check Magneto for Clean Ground surface in mounting bracket ...The Mags do false and wear out due 2 Heat so a Good Ground 2 Base mounting is needed .... Mechanics call them Coil Packs A Very Common since 1983 GM problem ....Buy aftermarket if Continuity Test proves they are Weak - Bosch or Standard make good Ignition parts . Since a Tune up was Done MAKE Sure plug wires have been Seated or Pushed on Tightly ..A CLEAN Air Filter can provide proper Air Flow at Start up - so Hold up to Sun Light then Flex it against Light 2 see if Lots of Light this will determine its Ability to Draw air ..NAPA sells a Spray Can = 10 bucks for Electronics cleaner that is used 2 Clean Mass air flow sensor visible when hose connections removed ..ALSO spray clean Intake air Temp sensor a small 2 wire attachment visible on outside of air intake hose .. The following is Called Fogging to Clean Fuel injection and is Best Done with Engine Running or Started right after all Below Items have been Spray cleaned +++ after 1 st spraying You must Rev engine 2 open Throttle plate and spray in direction of each Item .. The disconnected air box ++ intake Air Temp sensor with hose can be Off for Fogging Procedure but Wires plugged in .... Clean Throttle body intake at Plenum - or Intake at end of hose connection 2 main Fuel injectin Air intake .To do this remove Hose - Open Throttle via Someones help on Gas pedal or manually move it at Gas pedal cable connection - Then spray cleaner and be sure 2 get Idle control solenoid Tip visible when Throttle plate opens also on other side of this open plate is 2 nd Tip for EGR sensor be sure 2 spray it .. Final worst case issue is Fuel Pump in Tank can be Wearing out . Why you ask ?? You said young person Driving and If Poor Like me Then driving below 1 / 4 tank .. Yes electric fuel pumps when old Loose pressure when near bottom of Tank .. Stalling in / or after a Turn or sudden quick turn ++ Putting into Park after arriving in a sudden fashion will shift weight of car forward causing Gas in Tank To slosh / Move around .. All this Rapid movement moves Gas around and WILL Interfer with Inside of Tank electric Fuel pump ...Fuel supply interupt will cause misfire codes ...Driving habits by Old or Young often Help Pin Point a cause So see if any Trouble on Full Tank - If not Then Low fuel points Too electric fuel pump - Sadly it is inside of Tank = Major Job .. Try the Cheapest Ideals 1 st in my List ...Good Luck an hope it is simple Like a Loose plug wire ..............

1) Fluid resevoir is empty
2) Fluid is frozen
3) Washer fluid hose is disconnected, blocked or kinked
4) Washer switch is faulty
5) Washer pump motor is defective
6) Washer pump fuse is blown

It is built into the hazard switch.

Could be the linkage between the lock cylinder and the switch, or the trick was just a red herring and had nothing to do with the problem. Will it crank in neutral ? Do you have power at the starter ?

if you have lost power or difficulty to start or your spark plug wear to fast ! but a quick check up at a garage is the best to prevent damage , or be stuck on a road in the middle of nowhere !

remove a rocker cover for no 1 bank and place the timing mark on the harmonic balancer on the TDC mark. The valves on no 1 piston will both be fully closed or in a rocking position when a bit of movement at the harmonic balancer movers the valves up or down. otherwise it it still goes then the timing is right

Were all the spark plugs wires securely and properly snapped onto each plug? Its easy to miss them if your not careful. Remove each one and make sure its on correctly. Same applies to the distributor cap wires. If you didn't pus then through a bit to extend the contact it will go on the cap, but the contact doesn't sit where it should causing all kinds of problems. Other issue is, did you get the firing order correct?

Check if it has a tow bar the problem could be in the electrical plug connector.