20 Most Recent 1994 Oldsmobile Silhouette Questions & Answers

Oldsmobile Silhouette cabin air filter location

FilterLocation.com https://filterlocation.com > oldsmobile-silhouette-cabin... Oct 18, 2013 - To change cabin air filter on Oldsmobile Silhouette first time you need to open the glove box and then you need to remove the plastic panel ... They all work to a theme

Question edited to add maker. Question moved to category. The only thing listed is a parts diagram https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/oem-oldsmobile-tailgate_latch.html?vin=&make=Oldsmobile&model=Silhouette&year=1994&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=() and generic videos of replacing latches https://www.google.com/search?q=1994+Silhouette+rear+hatchback+door+latch+location ..

In the link https://www.google.com/search?q=firing+order+for+1994+oldsmobile+silhouette+3.8 ..

Probly worn out if the hi n low stil work. Junk yard has parts..but may b touchy work for wat its worth

You can't do it by yourself. Find car electrician.That'll do.

Light relays are located in the passenger side fuse box.

Well id try fuel injecter cleaner

go to a repair shop and see what they can do or tell u what to do and if nothing can be done go to your car dealer and have them find someone who can fix it

your brake lights are connected to a button that is adjustable on the upper end of the brake pedal, under the dash. check and adjust the button so it is only activated when the brake is pressed.

This problem is caused by in most cases the fuel pressure bleeding down when the engine is shut off, this leads to air in the fuel line because the fuel leaks back to the pump and then into the fuel tank. The fuel pump is electric and it has a built in fuel pressure check valve in the pressure outlet of the pump. To confirm this is the problem you must have a fuel pressure leak down test run, the test port to check fuel pressure is on the top of the engine in the pipe that supplies fuel and sets over the top of the fuel injectors. You can purchase a fuel pressure test gauge from most auto parts stores for about $20.00. Hook the test gauge up to the test port (it looks like an oversized tire valve) start the engine and verify you have no leaks at the connection of the gauge, once that is sealed and has no seepage of fuel note the fuel pressure at idle, shut the engine down and watch the gauge, it should not drop more than 4 pounds in one hour, in most cases it will drop off right away. If the fuel pump is the problem you will need to replace it, to do that requires you drop the fuel tank down out of the car, this is a very difficult job on the ground, you will need to raise the car as high off the ground as possible, support it on jack stands and then with a hydraulic floor jack support the fuel tank and remove the filler neck then remove the two steel straps that secure it to the cars underside, once the straps are off slowly lower the tank and remove the fuel lines and the electrical connector from the fuel pump/sending unit connector, then remove the tank and remove the retaining ring that holds the fuel pump/sender module inside the tank. Reverse to assemble, then put at least 4 gallons of gas in the tank to prime the pump.

Take the EGR valve off flip it upside down then spray some WD40 on it on the penyile valve if it leaks through and dosn't stay on top of that valve then its no good and needs to be replaced . Because there is under opperation vacuum pressure and heat if it won't hold normal air pressure and thin oil then its NG

Forget the filter . for now you are looking at a fuel pump a fuel filter is a hopeful repair

The age of your vehicle guarantee's a vacuum leak. It may sound silly but the truth is rubber grommets and hose's shrink and dry out over time and the harsh environment under the hood makes it worse. Check all vacuum lines and fittings attached to the intake manifold, valve covers(pcv valve), and be sure to check for a vacuum fitting on top of the intake just behind the throttle body. Does it fit tight in the hole? You can seal loose fittings with a high-temp RTV (Red) silicone sealant/adhesive.

Have you hooked a scanner to the computer and checked the oxygen sensor(s)? If they are bad they could lean out the engine.

Also, a restricted exhaust system can lower engine performance. If you dont know old the plugs and wires are, replace them. With plug wires, its the age not the miles. How old is the coil pack? It could be "breaking down" at higher rpm's. Does your engine have a cam sensor? It would be located where a Distributer used to be on older engines.

Remember an engine needs three things to work properly...Air / Fuel / Ignition(Spark)

MAF sensor if bad, the engine may not even start let alone run.
MAP sensor on most Olds engines is located just behind the rear valve cover. It may have a 3 or 4 wire plug connected and a vacuum line. Its about 1 1/2 inches tall X 4 inches long X 3/4 inch thick.
Hope this helps and good luck!

Check for spark, if there is none, two possible problems, the ignition module is bad or the CPS (crank position sensor is not working).

Are you checking the battery with a voltmeter or with a load tester? A battery with a weak cell will still read 12 volts but will drop drastically when you put a load on it. Try taking a voltage reading while trying to start it without being jumped. The voltage shouldn't go under the 9 volt range. Even at that, you can't tell with a voltmeter what the amperage is on a battery under load. Remove the battery and have a place like Auto Zone do a load test. They do this test for free.