Top 20 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Television and Video category. Normally you remove the back seat back, and pull the emergency release. Or a mobile locksmith can get in. If the lock is worn, any similar shape key may work with some jiggling. Also look in the glove box for a release button. I just found this in your Owner Manual for Cutlass Supreme Remote Trunk Release (OPTION) Press the yellow trunk release button located under the instrument panel on the driver's side. Your automatic transaxle must be in P (Park). Remember that your trunk can be opened at any time using the lock release. Be sure to lock your doors and also access into the back. Trunk Access Panel If you have split rear seats, you may have a trunk access panel for storing long objects like skis. Pull your rear armrest down using the strap. Then pull the latch on the trunk access panel towards you to open the panel. To close the access panel lift the latch. https://carmanuals2.com/get/oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme-1993-owner-s-manual-79185 Videos regarding a locked trunk. https://www.google.com/search?q=open+the+trunk+on+93+oldsmobile+cutlass+ciera+without+key ..

Disconnect your MASS AIR FLOW sensor connector and if car runs and does not quit then you found the problem . Replace sensor and relay .

Check for corrosion and ground issues. DO NOT keep replacing items. Codes only tell you what circuit, NOT the exact item to replace.

Power steering fluid is sold in a universal formula that works in all makes. Any parts store will have it.

if its overheated it could of blown the head gasket. or warped the head. take the plugs out and see if it looks like its been steam cleaned in one or more of the cylinders.

Check fuel rail in engine. There is a pressure regulator. The fuel pump may be bad

Did you locate correct fuse to those lights?
Are you sure using correct bulbs?
Are the bulbs/lights you are referring to as "tail lights" dual or single filament type?
We need to determine which lights exactly you are referring to, in order to help you troubleshoot.

Try wd40 or some type of penetrating oil rock the wheel left & right while snaking the key it should come out if you get it out have another key made yours is worn out that's why its sticking.

fuel pump ?

Check the oil. Quite a few cars do that when they are low.

The pump is inside the fuel tank.

Hey Mike, I know this is hair pulling..You need to replace the fuel pump filter/strainer.. and maybe the fuel pump..the fuel pump determines how much pressure goes through the entire system ... BUT FIRST.. determine (if you can) where the metal flakes came from..(debris is probably from a gas station.. over the years.. I learned NOT to get gas right after heavy rains - guess why?) ,,do you still have the old fuel filter?? carefully cut it open and see whats inside.. (unroll the pleats) if you see a lot of metal flakes like in the tank,, you know they were caught.. .. Fuel Pump Strainer Fuel pump: for a 2.2 Fuel Pump For a 3.3 Fuel Pump

run the fault codes not running indicates that the air/ fuel ratio is incorrect for the ambient temperature so you should be checking the ambient temp sensor /baro sensor and coolant temp sensor

engine check light means fault codes to be read are stored in ecu fuel pump delivery timing idle control sensor air filter /maf ? got spark if it starts up again after stopping?

sounds like the lockup converter is not releasing when you stop, like stopping with a stick shift and not pushing in the clutch. lockup solenoid most likely. Could just disconnect the lockup sol. (won't lock up at all) or replace the solenoid.

It's only suppose to start in park or neutral !

If this happens only in the morning the culprit may be moisture in the distributor cap. If this problem has slowly gotten worse over time then a vacuum leak could be the cause. Check the EGR first Below are two methods to find that If all that is good, it may be a bad fuel filter, fuel pump, bad electrical connection or the IAC needs to be cleaned. If it was the last one however, you would expect a rough idle. If it's been a while since you have replaced the fuel filter, it wouldn't be a bad idea to go ahead and just do it. Let me know what you get If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_27a4d257e54e7920

If your fuel is okay (no water on the bottom of your tank... and your intake (carbs or fuel injection) equipment is still mostly bolted securely to the engine (both reasonably assured by mostly working... when it is working: most of the time)... you are probably experiencing an intermittent blockage of the EXHAUST SYSTEM... You may be experiencing the early warning. I got marooned twice: rusted or rotted parts... cut loose for a total failure. First - by a blocked muffler in Fresno (great shop: Cal State Mufflers & Brake)... ''75 Ranchero GT... I think (been a very long while) Second - by a catalytic converter FIASCO... Horrible/EXPENSIVE Clown City Jag dealer, Walnut Creek (my opinion: never forget). Both ultimately left me standing by the roadside... marooned pretty good. Don't wait see if your local friendly Ye Old muffler shoppe has any clever diagnostics... or wait for the catastrophe... Your choice but keep a good book in the car (pack a lunch (survival equipment too)). Good luck

There r maxifuses in engine area. May hav a burnt switch or relay tu. Motor cud b bad

engine coolant temp sensor should be near the upper radiator hose neck on the intake.