20 Most Recent 2001 Dodge Stratus - Page 7 Questions & Answers

been looked at and it was the distributor price not attractive tho.

it wont fit, the transmissions are different. a 3.0 is a mitsubishi drive train

First--- you look at scan tool data & test parts BEFORE you replace any There are many O2 Codes & most sensors have several things, in a trouble chart or trees, to follow, to find problems Evap System, is not the same system, as the Oxygen Sensor Monitor is on--different codes to work on, different problem You have 8 Monitors So get all your codes & find out what they are & component test OBD Codes have nothing to do with changing parts They are only an indication of an out of range parameter

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0455

Google search all will be revealed.

Check the coolant level. If its low you wont get any heat. If its full then I would suspect that the temp. selector on the climate control is faulty. Farley easy to replace. Your local you pull parts yard will have one for $20-$35.

It is located in the air duct feeding the engine's air duct

During the night or after the car sets for a while. The battery voltage will drop from the normal 13.6 to 13.8 volts when running and Charging, to between 12.3 to 12.6 volts. If the Crank Sensor is going bad, it may not operate correctly with the lower voltage. Check your Battery Voltage in the morning with a Volt Meter. If the Battery Voltage is lower than about 12.3 to 12.5 volts. You may need a new battery. Try leaving the battery on a low current Battery Maintainer overnight and see if it starts in the morning. I have seen many cars that shut down with Low Battery Voltage. Darn these New Fangled Cars and their Computers! FYI, we have never seen a Crank Sensor fail in this manner..... Check the RESTING Battery Voltage.

You either spend the money & remove the door panel yourself & replace what is need or pay someone You can try to pull the window up & wedge it there If the regulator is broken that may not be possible

Where is it- at a shop? What has been tested & the results?

probably the heater core.

Sounds like the flasher. It's under the dash. Drivers side. Small round and silver. No tools needed, it just unplugs. Cheap and easy fix. I think I paid $6.99 at O'Reilly for mine.

What you need to do, is stop removing the battery cables, & let the repair shops solve your vehicles problems You just created more issues You do not listen to what your told That is not how you educate yourself Once the car is fixed, do not take it back, until the shop drives it at least 30 miles or more & has at least 7 of the 8 emission monitors run clear & what your referring to here,that being the relearn of shift points or whatever, you lost, not knowing to leave the cables on. HAVE THE SHOP DO THE RELEARNS or DO NOT TAKE IT BACK ---that is their job--- not yours

Most likely a broken wire in the drive door jam area inside the rubber bot

I'm not aware of any differences between your cap and all the rest on the market so i'm going to give you general instructions and then i would suggest that you see whats cooking on the internet. As with any radiator cap, the motor should be cool. The system is normally under pressure when the engine is warm, so that's not the time to do it. The cap has two positions. One is "vent". That's when you loosen it to the first stop. The next is "full off". That's the second stop. All caps have to be pushed down to turn them and they turn counterclockwise to remove them. Go slowly and don't force anything. I would add that the manufacturers don't want you to mess with that cap, so they have a reservoir that is used to add coolant. If you can use that instead, then you're home free. Let me know.....a

ok try bleeding the the system may have air in the lines,or you may have a bad slave cylinder check your master cylinder as well