20 Most Recent 1998 Dodge Avenger - Page 5 Questions & Answers

the only way i no is to take dash off and replace the bulb

cut them a little and find the same gauge wire and just splice them back together ive spliced many wires for batteries so trust me this will work.

alternator going bad

clutch pack went out more then likely needs new ******

Clutch pack in the transmission went out, most likely. If so you will have to rebuild ****** or get a used one

You do not have to remove the cover the bulbs simply pull out of the back just twist and pull

P0704- Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction

Possible Causes:
- Open or short clutch switch circuit
- Poor clutch switch circuit connection
- Damage clutch switch
- Misadjusted clutch switch
- Damaged ECM

Possible Solution: Check clutch switch adjustment, the switch should open and close when the clutch pedal is depress. If the switch is properly adjusted, replaced the clutch switch to resolve problem.

Hello and welcome to FixYa!
This is usually caused by a faulty ground. As a first course of action, Please make sure that the negative batter connector is tight. I suggest that you buy an aftermarket grounding kit. This will help stabilize the current in your car. Bad ground causes this issue and putting on more grounds can resolve the problem.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

this is a picture showing the fuel filter locaion. hope help.

performed paresetic draw on system to find out what is draining the battery
could be lots of thing ex : trunk light ,under hood light ,etc etc.

you need to know what caused the limp mode and repair it otherwise you won`t be able to get it out of limp mode.

the first thing you should check is the fuel pump. when turning the ignition to the on position, if the car is completely silent, you can hear the fuel pump click or make noise towards the back of the car. one thing i would suggest doing is turning the car on, but not trying to start it, that way the fuel pmp can beggin to pump fuel to the engine. if after a while you try to start it and no go, then keep turning it over. it might take a lot of turning over to start because the fuel lines alone have over a gallon on most cars, so it might be normal if it takes forever to start the first time. another way to check to see if the fuel pump is working is after trying to turn it over, and you remove the gas cap, you will hear the pressure being let out. if you hear this, that is good. if not, try cheking to see if t he fuel filter has gas in it. if it is still empty, than you have a bigger problem. you should also try spraying either gas of starter fluid into the carburator to make sure no other problems have occured. hope this helps, goodluck.

Shouldn't have to. the bezel that holds the buttons pops out. pry it from the bottom/rear part of the bezel and it will come out.

Follw the coil wire from where it plugs into the disrtibutor cap, and you`ll find the coil.

Why did you change the head gasket Patrick,
Was the engine missing before you did this,or did you over heat the engine from low coolant?
If the miss was there before you may have burnt a valve,

Below the link for Chrysler/Dodge auto-transmission manual
http://www.scribd.com/doc/7095618/545rfe-Transmission-Manual

Solenoid mounts outside the transmission, so you do not need to remove the transmission to install. It should be located between fuse box and air filter housing on the top of transaxle case and right next to transmission controle module.
I hope his step by step procedure will work for you. It is not hard at all to replace the solenoid. There are three 10mm bolts. You will also need to remove the input speed sensor. One thing to look out for is not bending the gasket when installing the new solenoid:

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly.
3. Remove electrical connectors for transmission control module (please refer the manual I send you and autozone.com website).
4. Remove the Transmission Control Module
5. Disconnect and remove the input speed sensor
6. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines. Cap off hoses and fittings to prevent foreign matter intrusion.
7. Disconnect the solenoid/pressure switch assembly connector.
8. Remove the three solenoid/pressure switch assembly-to-transaxle case bolts
9. Remove solenoid/pressure switch assembly and gasket

Keep everything clean to prevent foreign materials to go inside

1. Install solenoid/pressure switch assembly to case using a new gasket
2. Install bolts and torque to 13 N·m (110 in. lbs.)
3. Install 8-way connector and torque screw to 4 N·m (35 in. lbs.)
4. Uncap and install transmission oil cooler lines.
5. Install input speed sensor and torque to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)
6. Install Transmission Control Module
7. Install air cleaner assembly.
8. Connect battery negative cable.

P.s. 1. You can fine some clips on YouTube.com at least for similar cars
2. Also at Autozone.com you can find the component location for your car and repair guide
3. Also there is a link for Mitchel1 online manual useb by US mechanic 1 week subscribtion is
11.99 , 1 month 16.99
http://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals.htm
Let me know if you need more info
Good Luck and happy fixing

IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STEERING WHEEL

You will have to get under the car with a pry bar, if you can't get the pry bar behind the end of the joint and between the transaxle housing, you can try gripping it with large slip joint pliers while someone else tries to pry it out against the surface of the pliers. I've even used a c-clamp when I've been alone. Put the clamp on the inner joint and pry against it. Most of the time these shafts will fall out with just a sharp tug just on the shaft itself, but I know some can be a pain.

There is a guide behind the door panel that the window sits on that pushes both sides of the window up evenly, it most likely just fell off and it is fairly easy to get them back onto the guide. I dough there is anything that is broken but if there is I don't think it will cost much to replace.