1996 Dodge Stealth - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

50 causes that takes tools to find it got tools? gue$$ing would take a huge pile of cash. gee ask a shop to diagnose it.(towed in) or mobile techs.

Sounds like the slave cylinder inside bell housing is leaking. Replace both cylinders when fixing. the clutch plate and flywheel should be inspected for wear.

Did you check fuel pump electrical circuit ? Look at a wiring diagram to see what all is involved in making the fuel pump work. No , the knock sensor can't cause this ! Do you know how to do automotive electrical circuit testing using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ? How to read an use a wiring diagram to pin point areas for testing in a electrical circuit ! What do you think makes that fuel pump work ? AIR !!!! Looking at a wiring diagram I see a fuel pump relay that gets B+ voltage from the engine control relay. The engine computer energizes both, relays .There is a fuel pump resistor inline before the fuel pump. Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size. Under system click on engine then under subsystem click fuel controls ! Click the search button then the second blue link . The second diagram down shows the fuel pump electrical circuit . Watch this videos from youtube . Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know How to Use Multimeter to Troubleshoot Common Problems

Is it a low oil level sensor? Is it in the side of the oil pan?

You need to shim the starter away from the flywheel.

The only thing cheaper is to drain the fluid and replace with the correct fluid and ask the Parts Salesman of what additive might work best in your transmission. Check the Fluid in the Clutch Cylinder. Bleed it after it is topped off.This could help.

Change the plugs end wires on it, Fuel pump will not cause the car to miss i hate to tell you,

1991 is a OBD 1, what you basically need to do is jump the diagnostic pin and read the code by flashing check engine light,Anyway you are not dealing with a computure problem,Your Dodge has a high failure rate for a transmission failure.What you can do is listen to the transmission do you hear a high whinning pitch noise,if you do your are dealing with a transmission failure,Check the transmission fluid, as you pull out the dipstick is the transmisssion fluid foamy?If it is you are dealing with a mechanical failure,And beside the computure system in your vehicle is analog,at that time OBD1 did not monitor or control much of the transmission input,

You'll have to figureout if it is a fuel or ignition problem.Is the check enginelight on ?

Hello! Do you have a multimeter and a wee bit of experience using it? If so I would suggest you have a resistive chassis ground...Set the meter to read X10 ohms...Place one probe on the CENTER of the - battery post and the other on bare metal of the chassis (fender bolt or firewall)...Use sand paper to assure bare metal...You must read very close to zero ohms...Move the lead from the chassis and place it on bare metal of the engine block....Same results... Close to zero...If you read 200-2500, for instance, you have found your problem...The fact that the battery meter is dropping also points at a resistive ground....Place one lead on the center of the - battery terminal and the other on the ground side AT the headlights...Again a solid ground must be present...

If grounds are OK...Set the meter to read +12 volts DC...Read across the battery with engine off...Record reading... Start engine and read again...Record and send results...And I'll take it from there...Guru...............Saailer I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

If the Cable its self has Snapped then You will have to go at it from Under the Front Bumper, Cut the Cable sheath, & Grab the cable with a Small Visegrip. Then get a replacement hood release assembly...----------
Use a large flat bladed screwdriver and wedge it behind the black cone (which isjust behind the secondary latch) on the left side and push it left to right. The hood latch will spring open. --------- Usually you can reach the cable end of the latch ,under the hood's bottom side,at the center.Use a length of heavy coathanger wire about a foot long and form a hook on one end and a hand hold on the other Now if you can hook into the lever and pull it in the direction that the cable does,you may open the latch.This is if you see well enough and can get to the latch or the wire hooked into the end of the latch.You may have to experiment a bit with the hooks size to use it effectively.Have a friend hold down on the hood, to help the latch move easier.Tell him when to let the hood up once you move the latch.-------- this will help.thanks.Helpmech.

hi, to me the problem sounds like you need to get the oxygen sensor (or lambda sensor for its real name replaced), now the reason it points to this being the fault is down to the fact you say it runs fine after its been sitting for a while n then plays up after driving it for a while,
now the oxygen sensor only starts working when the exhaust reaches a certain temp, so from cold the sensor is not working and the engine will run perfect, but say after a short drive and when the exhaust reaches normal running temp then this switches the sensor on and then the engine will die due to the sensor being at fault, the sensor is not cheap to buy but it is something you can replace yourself, no the sensor itself is located in the exhaust if you have a cat converter on the exhaust then it will be either before or just after this, but you should be able to see it, if you have a good look at the exhaust and where it comes out of the engine and if you follow the exhaust down you should see a sensor bolted into the exhaust and it will have 1 or 2 wires going to it that connect it with the engine management in the wiring loom,

the fault you have described can really only relate to this sensor, so make sure that the car runs perfect when cold but when it gets hot it cuts out or bogs down loads, then if you try starting it it wont start till the engine is cool enough for the sensor to switch off, so give it a try and run the car till it cuts out, then if you try starting it strait after its cut out and it wont start then this will be pointing to this sensor being at fault, then wait for the engine to cool down and once its cool enough it should start and run normal till it reaches a certain temp where the sensor is.

if you are going to get a garage to do the work the shop around to get the best price as this part isnt that cheap to buy and you could even replace it yourself if you wanted to but you would need to make sure when you fit the new 1 that you use exhaust sealer to seal it in once you have bolted it into the exhaust.

i hope this then solves your problem, you should find after doing this that your car runs perfect and will no longer cut out, now a lot of people that have this problem think that the problem is fuel related so spend a fortune or replacing pumps n filters n injectors etc etc and they still end up with the same problem they had in the first place, its only when they find out that its a sensor at fault do they realise they have spent money on wrong parts,

changing this sensor will solve your problem and will get you back on the road without breaking down.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

the iac is located on the throttle body on the intake manifold....its were the black plastic tube from the air cleaner goes into the the manifold...but a easy way to find it is to buy the part an just look for the same part on the car....it will be on the top of the motor just past that black plastic tube...if that doesnt work have the car checked for a vaccum leak this will also cause a high idle

I'm guessing you are stuck in one gear---either 1st or 2nd? If this is the case the computer was sent an error message by one of the sensors that has detected a fault/malfunction and it has gone in to LIMP or failsafe mode---this mode prevents further damage to other componets and alows you to "limp" the car home. Sometimes it is the ECM or TCM itself that is bad, but most often on a Dodge it is either the output or input sensor that is faulty and/or its the speed sensor...these can all be replaced easily without much labor involved. Have the codes checked and pressure readings on the transmission diagnosed for conformation. Good luck and i hope this information helps.

There is a web site called automotix.com they have an engine,

they also have other sites on the web that may be cheaper,

I would check locally, like salvage yards, there are also insurance salvages,

your engine is very popular so there are many places where to purchase

an engine. good luck!

Your a/c compressor operates on a pressure switch, when there is not enough freon in the system it will kick on and off, you can get a refill kit at a local parts store that has a gauge on the can so you do not overfill it. that will also cause the compressor to kick on and off. ------------The AC refrigerant is low, either is leaking or its low.Get the AC pressure test done at local car garage.If the AC refrigerant is checked low, then it has to be charged.But if the pressure test also checked leak with low refrigerant, then compressor has to be repaired, in some cases it get repaired, in some cases the compressor needs to be replaced, if refrigerant leak is detected.If leak is minor,m then refrigerant sealant are available.--------- But if its major, then compressor replacing is necessary.------------- But if in AC pressure test all checked ok, then in that case the possibility is low side cycling switch, jumper the switch and see if it stays on, if it does, replace the switch.--------- This sounds like a low refrigerant problem, but you will need to have gauges on this to determine this, the low side should be around 30, and the high should be btween 150 and 250, if the low goes below 20, the compreesor will shut off, this is a low pressure situation, if the pressure gets to around 400 or 500, the compressor will shut off, this is usuakly caused by the condensor fan not coming on or a restriction in the system, if the pressures are normal, then it is a problem in the electrical part of the system.Also the AC drive belts needs to be checked.The ECT( engine coolant temperature) sensor.if the sensor gets faulty, it will sense over heated and stop the ac from running.The sensor gets to its normal range and again AC works.again it gets overheated.May be due to faulty sensor the cycle is repeating.But first get the AC pressure and Refrigerant level checked.This will confirm the problem.---------
This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

you can buy the complete control arms for $650. Chances are very good that your bushings are worn as well. Using a complete control arm replacement tightens up the front end.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=control+arm

there is a solenoid for the fuel pump, should be in the fuse box under the hood.

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Use small piece of wood and wedged it in between the hood and grill and pull the latch. Make sure to replace the cable before you close the hood.

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Sounds like the coolant level is possibly low. also check the mix and make sure that it is the proper mix to much water will have adverse effects. finally it could be the heater core possibly going bad or the temperature control switch on the dash could be bad.