20 Most Recent 1996 Dodge Intrepid - Page 2 Questions & Answers

CHECK INSIDE YOUR FUSE BOX (USUALLY LOCATED UNDER THE HOOD). LOOK FOR THE RELAYS THAT CONTROL THE HEADLAMPS. TRY TO CHANGE PLACES WITH THE ONE'S THAT THE NUMBER MATCHES. GENERAL MOTORS SEEMS TO HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THESE. THE LOCATOR PICTURE WILL BE INSIDE THE LID COVERING THE FUSE PANEL BOX.

go to that link , you'll get all universal codes description . http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/ hope to help.

disconnect battery wait 10 min connect battery make sure you are using a valid key put key in ignition and crank if doesn't youll ned a scan tool to fix a theft problem

hi you should replace the whole rack and pinion, as if any other part has damage, this will end up damaging the new parts and you will be back to stage one, i do not think it would be cost affective as well as the parts will possibly cost just as much as a new rack, also you would have labour charges to..hope this helps

What sequence did you use? You either didnt do it correctly or you still have air in the lines.

In most cases I would suspect the master cyl. And you could have a defective unit if you bought a rebuilt part. Its possible one of the calipers or wheel cylinders is leaking internally. But its almost always the master. The booster only applies extra pressure to the master. It would not have any effect on the fluid. There might be a chance something is going on with the ABS but I doubt it. You may have to plug the lines at the master to find out whats going on.

You might not be getting enough fuel to the engine. It is possible to install the fuel filter backwards. If it is backwards fuel wont go through it. Seems how it was running the day before it died id say its not the timing chain. There is a small black cap on the fuel rail that looks like a valve stem cap. Remove it and with a tiny screw driver press the center of it in, like you would a tire stem. If little fuel comes out that's your problem. The fuel system. Its one of the few things on a car that wont set a trouble code. There is another thing i just thought of. The knock you heard could be a spark knock witch does point the fuel system. Or a knock sensor. Test them both. Hope this helps. :)

Time to see a repair shop.

Look in the trunk of the car on the sidewalk away from the filler tube. Chances are you will have to get behind the fiber trunk trim to access it or they may have scored a piece of the trim. It will be behind that. You might want to look at the owners manual as well just in case there is a bad relay or fuse.

Tap on the Idle speed motor, if that works Replace it.

I hope this is what you wanted

Test your door switches. You'll see them where door closes against them ( push switch ) at door post. Sometimes testing one door at a time by opening door and pushing in hard by hand will turn light out, if defective one not found that way, you'll have to remove and test one at a time. I'd start with drivers door first.

I had the same problem. The solution to this is something called the turn signal/highbeam switch, located in your steering column. This switch has an actuator of some sort that goes bad after a while. It doesn't allow the actuator to turn back into regular headlight mode, instead disabling it. I went to my local junkyard and replaced it. Everything works now. Here is a link to anyone looking to solve their problem - http://www.am-autoparts.com/AM/Switches-and-Levers/Dodge/Intrepid/-/AM-38623751/

Some times when the cars overheat after driving it for a while could be because the water pump blades are in bad shape, there's a leak that has not been detected, the thermostat is not opening when it should, etc. Normally the thermostat is located near the water pump. The water pump is normally located on the front of the engine (which is where the drive belts are). Some cars have the engine placed sideways in relation with the front of the car, so don't confuse the front of the car with the front of the engine. If I'm not mistaken, your 1996 Dodge Intrepid has an engine that is placed facing towards the front of the car. If that's the case, look for the hoses that come from the radiator and they should lead you to the water pump (normally the intake of water) and to the thermostat (normally the return of water to the radiator). If I recall correctly, the thermostat compartment should be right in front of you when you open the hood, right in the middle close to the radiator, but as I said above, if is not there, just follow the hoses from the radiator and you'll find it. The thermostat's work is to stop the water from going back to the radiator until it has reached a particular temperature, at which point it should open to let the hotter water out of the engine into the radiator to cool down a bit, and when the "cooler" water from the radiator makes it into the engine the temperature of the water will make the thermostat close again. Keep in mind, every time I say water I mean water mixed with coolant/antifreeze. You're NEVER suppose to just put water alone in your engine as a regular practice. Only in an emergency situation where you don't have any other choice would you do that, in order to make it to the nearest place where you can replace it with the proper water/coolant/antifreeze mixture. Thermostats are sold by temperature. Some times you can find thermostats that have lower or higher temperatures stamped on them or on the box. The use of those depends on the climate you live in (cold north states, hot south states, caribbean, etc.) Ask your mechanic or auto parts expert to see which one is the proper one for your car in the state you live in. In some cars you can check the water pump without having to take it out just by removing the thermostat and putting everything back together (except the thermostat, of course), then taking the radiator cap off. Turn the car on to see if the fluids in the radiator are circulating properly. If not, then you'll have to take the pump off to investigate deeper. Don't forget to replace the thermostat in it's proper place, since most cars use sensors that work upon the temperature of the engine and its water to do different things. So it's not a good practice to eliminate a thermostat on a car. Also, verify that the radiator cap is in good working order. Some radiator caps work just like the thermostat, when they reach a particular high temperature they open to liberate excessive pressure to prevent the radiator to explode or crack, etc. Thermostats and radiator caps are not that expensive, so if you are going to do this tests, you might as well just replace them with new ones anyways. That way you'll know you will not have problems with those in the near future. Hope this helps you! Best wishes!

Hi,
REMOVAL
Always remove the ignition coil assembly by grasping at the spark plug boot, turning the assembly 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion.

• Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air around the coil area and spark plug.
• Remove electrical connector from ignition coil.

On 3.5L engines, it is necessary to loosen the screws by alternating back and forth. Do not lose the spacers under the coil when loosening the screws.

• Remove 2 fasteners from ignition coil.
• Remove ignition coil assembly.
• Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
• Inspect the spark plug condition.

INSTALLATION
Always remove the ignition coil assembly by grasping at the spark plug boot, turning the assembly 1/2 turn and pulling straight back in a steady motion.

• To avoid cross threading, start the spark plug into the cylinder head by hand.
• 3.5L engines tighten spark plugs to 28 N·m (20 ft. lbs.) torque, 2.7L engine tighten spark plugs to 17.6 N·m (13 ft. lbs.).
• Install ignition coil assembly onto spark plug.
• Install coil screws and tighten: 2.7L engine to 6.2 N·m (55 in. lbs.), 3.5L engines to 6.7 N·m (60 in. lbs.).
• Connect the electrical connector.

Depending on the tyoe if car, when you run the car completely out of gas it can burn uo the pump,you may have to remove a line to make sure the pump is working.

The starter solenoid may be faulty. The following procedure explains how to inspect and test the solenoid.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Inspect the starter and solenoid for corrosion or looses connections.
3. Lower the vehicle.
4. Remove the starter relay from the PDC. Connect a remote starter switch or a jumper wire between the battery positive post and terminals 87 of the starter relay connector.
5. If the engine cranks, the starter and solenoid are OK.
6. If the engine does not crank, or the solenoid chatters, check the wiring and connectors from the relay to the solenoid for loose or corroded connections. Particularly the starter terminals.
7. Repeat the test. If the engine still fails to crank properly, trouble is within the starter or solenoid.