20 Most Recent 1994 Dodge Caravan - Page 10 Questions & Answers

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2.5 liter



3.0 liter



3.3 liter:

Rebuilt engine 3.0 liter. Gas mileage dropped to about 15. Put in new MAP sensor. Air filter staying clean. What else could it be

I believe its underneith the rear floor. U need your tire iron which I believe is mounted in the engine compartment. There is i hole that may be covered with a rubber plug in the floor at the very back by the tailgate. Put the iron into the hole & rotate it til the tire gets lowered to the ground...

A TC shudder on a 604 is the first sign of the end. You may can get away with putting a torque converter in it , if you do it soon ( tomorrow).If it shudders going up hill it is most likely not the converter since the clutch is released under load. I would suspect and engine miss first.I am constantly dealing with vehicles that someone has diagnosed as a converter shudder and turns out to be something else , most the time just a bad coil or set of plug wires.

if you open the door and look at the locking mechanism,there should be a little lever which you have to push in the unlocking position

Do headlights turn on? radio work,wipers? If not then you have no power out of the battery, are lights real dim and go out when you turn key? If so battery is to dead to supply the needed current. check all connections from the battery and clean, check and clean wires on starter, also look for broken wire or connections which run the ignition on small post of starter selonoid. i believe those areas will be your problem

It's probably your sending unit in the tank. Its part of the fuel pump, but you may be able to get it separate.

Oil in the radiator is not from the engine. It's from the transmission. Check your transmission fluid. Transmission colling lines go through the radiator for cooling. There is where your problem is. If coolant gets into your transmission that is Not good.
Good luck and thanks for your question and I hope my suggestions help. burdfrenzy
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Try to check first the istributor. Is the distibutor rotor turning when you crank the engine? It may be the drive gear on the distributor is bad. They are nylon and do tend to get brittle and break overtime.

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battery is low. jump start and check voltage at battery with engine running, jumpers off. Voltage should be at least 14 volts. If not, remove alternator and take to parts store for testing.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

There are two sensors which are notorious for being subject to heat that a) shut the engine down and b) prevent restart until cool, namely the crank position (CKP) and cam position (CMP) sensors. It is not technically easy to determine that these type of sensors are at fault directly as they usually require the use of an oscilloscope. The thermal drift in these components can escape detection by the ECU and so no error codes are set. There are two types of sensor the 2 pin magnetic, most often associated with the crank and the 3 pin hall effect type most often seen in the cam sensor. 2 pin socket (magnetic - sine wave output); one pin is 'ground' the other is 'signal'. A voltmeter set to 2 volts, note this is AC output, should measure a signal from 0.2 v to 2 volts range on the 'signal' pin. For the 3 pin socket (Hall effect, magneto - square wave form output); one pin is 'reference' (5volts), one pin is 'ground' (0 volts) and the third pin is 'signal'. A voltage of DC output (different to the 2 pin) should be detectable in the 0.5 to 1.5 volt range from the 'signal' pin. It is important that the voltage measurement take place at start up when the engine is cold and again, some minutes later, when the engine is warming up towards operating temperature. AS mentioned at the beginning, the voltage output from faulty sensors declines with temperature rise. If you find one or other of the sensors at fault simply change it. Give the beast one last chance and good luck

scrap it , my buddy has the same problem, beleive me he can put a new *** on a cat but this dodge problem is putting his soul in the ground... anybody got the answer???????? let him know.......

thanks

the gaskets are probly wearing so use some thick oil--chec for loose pan on tranny--are u talkin timing belt-thats in front of engine--someone wants tomake some dinero!--please buy a repair manual

ur heater core no good need to replace the heater core

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Fluids-and-Chemicals/Engine-Oil/_/N-26qq

going to this site can help you locate your factory recommended oil, but your local store can give you the latest recommendations on synthetics for your older engine. Think about trying that!

you may have air in your brake lines even though its not leaking in the front it could even be it the rear

junk yards are a real good bargain but at the same time you really got to check out the goods before you buy.

Way up under the dashboard, is your blend door lever that is opened and closed by the termperature control cable. We often find that the part that holds the cable sheath has come loose and no longer holds the sheath such that the cable inside will move the lever to open the door. I show the location and then a close-up of the mechanism below. You need to check to see if the cable is actually moving the lever and if not, reclamp the sheath so that it does. Please let me know if you have more questions.