1992 Dodge Stealth - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

it could be your fuel pump , even if the pump kicks in, it has to pump approx 40 pounds of pressure to the fuel rail

harmonic balancers by design have a rubber insertion between the hub and the pulley that rubber breaks and relies soley on friction to drive the pulley it the tdc mark and the piston position are not correct , that would indicate that the harmonic balancer needs replacing however when replacing the belts always go of the timing marks on the pulleys on the crank and cam shafts and not off the balancer

at this point you are advised to walk away from this car check engine means engine or transmission faults and until you get the fault codes read you may not be able to get the car ready for inspection IT hasn't run for 11 years --definitely not a good deal unless he wants to pay you to take it away

if it has a cable , replace the inner cable if your GPS is not calibrated it could be out as well

Hey Anon, I just finished replacing the intermittent (wiper motor pulse board) control on my vehicle.. it was doing exactly as you describe.. it wasn't hard.. just time consuming..

There's very probably a fuse diagram in your owner's manual, if you still have it.

Can you tell us which fuse is blown? If you can tell us which component isn't working, I'll try to find a diagram for it? bbbind.com has free wiring diagrams.

What else have you checked? Have plugs been done and are they champions? Fuel pressure tested? Compression test done?

Google it All vehicle info is on the internet with pictures

you may not have a bad cooling system but a possible bad but small head gasket leak I would have it tested for a head gasket leak.

retest could be a contaminated gas anilizer high co2 isnt a bad thing it means teh cat is working high CO is a failing cat whats the hydrocarbons at

It could be that your car has more than one problem. start with a compression test (wet&dry). You need to first confirm that the pistons and valves are fine. After that, you need to inspect different components that could be retailed to this issue. Check as much as you can. EGR valve, O2 sensors, exhaust back pressure, fuel injectors (dirty, clogged, or worn), fuel pressure regulator, or for vacuum leaks. This problem could be electrical but since there is no Engine Light, maybe it is a mechanical failure. The sticking throttle needs to be tested part by part. Disconnect the throttle cable and test the throttle pedal first, the cable second and the throttle actuating valve third. If you need more information, right back. Be specific with your questions and what you have found. Good luck.

What's not working on car?

Most likely a faulty contact switch in the seat belt latch assembly. Replace latch assembly and recheck.

Well I'm not sure what the problem is as far as your symptom (not starting, charging or no power at all etc...) but there is a 120 amp main fuse. The diagram above is a rough draft of the fuse panel under the hood of the vehicle in the engine compartment. I have marked the location of that 120amp fuse. That's the main fuse coming right off the battery. I'm guessing this may be your problem with what information you have provided. Hope this helps.....

if you press the shifter and it moves ,then at transmission side,something is loose or came apart,at gear selector side of transmission, some kind of E clip. or C clipbut if the shifter from inside the car not moving at all,there is switch under brake pedal that is bad and need to be changed look at brake pedal and follow it up toward fire wall from inside the car where at that point upper part of pedal connected to master cylinder

did you fully compress caliper pistons before installation

fuel pump relay switch

sounds like the blow off valve to me, not activating. tip: dont exclude dealer or high performance replacement parts sometimes they are cheaper and higher quality best of luck

Mine did that and was cured by a new temp sensor on the end of the head