Top 20 1992 Dodge Dakota Questions & Answers

do you have power to coil --check relays- fuses and harness

no only pumps fuel ---spark is ignition systen --coil- plugs-distributor

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Spray some starter fluid into the throttle body. If it runs then you have a fuel delivery problem. Possible a pinched line. Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Pressure should be around 40 psi.

i don't know. make sure you have fuel and your battery tries to start truck with your head lights on. if truck is not trying to start, you could try boosting your battery. always hook up the low battery first. my car stopped once because the battery was dead. the wire at battery terminal was loose and corroded. i have fixed an olde man's engine by pushing the vehicle's coil wire back, into the distributor cap. i had an air lock to my fuel tank cured by temporarily loosening my gas cap. i found gal's olde 4 cylinder Hyundai Pony, disabled along highway. i fault found broken points. i bought new points [ $5 ], set with a dime and she went on her way. i fault found a dead battery in disabled auto on highway. gal's rear window heater was shorting out, sucking life out of battery. friend's car quit because coil died. consider sitting quietly, stare at the Dakota, or think about why it won't run. don't be surprised if you get an idea of why.

Google it

The one coming from the water pump

Your brake light switch under the brake foot pedal may be defective and may need to be replaced. If if you have a test light or multimeter you can check to see if voltage is coming from the switch once it's depressed. You can also check the voltage at the brake light socket itself. No power = no lights. Also depending on your vehicle you may have a fuse that controls the brake lights. Check your owner's manual if you have one. lastly, there could be a bad ground at the taillights.

Oh man, I had the same problem with a Chev Baretta. Domestic autos of those years have so many redundant systems to prevent ruining the engine. In the case of Chev, low oil pressure would shut off the fuel pump. But a bad oil pressure sensor will do the same thing, as it's giving a false pressure reading. Best advice is to get your hands on a Chiltons/Haynes repair manual for your truck and follow the trouble shooting section. Best of luck. (After much frustration I did get that sensor replaced. Drove great until the fuel pump itself quit. I left that repair to someone else. I'm not into self-immolation.)

Sometimes 4WDs get "Wound up" and you need to go frwards and backwards a few times in whilst trying to select 2WD

Depends how much needs to be taken off to get to the good section of line on bith ends of the leaking part. Shouldn't be too big of a deal if no rust is involved.

have you replaced the brake fluid and bled the system under pressure, starting with rear wheel diagonally opposite the master cylinder in engine bay. and work way down to shorts. removing all bubbles from the lines. any air in system can travel. you need a brake bleeding kit with pressure lead that fits the cap size on the brake filler. also remember while doing this if you have manual gearbox and hydraulic clutch don't press down on the clutch pedal.

Maybe I can help. I had a Chrysler Lebarron V8 that quit on me randomly and it turned out to be the coil resistor on the firewall. I started carrying a spare since it happened so often. Dave

check the wires to the headlight. wiggle them while they're on to see if you can get it to fail. possible loose connection, damaged wires, loose ground. keep us informed

What fault codes do you have? to check for fault codes using the check engine light blink method do the following, turn the key to run and then off, then to run and then off, then to run and watch the check engine light, count the blinks, there will be a pause and then more blinks, that is the code(s) So lets say it blinks 2 times and then 5 times, that is code 25. Google the code or codes under the heading: "Dodge OBD1 fault codes"

First. That motor sometimes has carbon build up issues. But. Make sure u have good spark plug wires. Not cheap parts house wires. Also no I mean NO Bosch plugs! Anything but Bosch. Then if prob still there check injectors by swapping them to fry two cyl.

Not all fuses are installed, only those that run the systems that were installed by the factory, you will have empty fuse slots.. I know this because I had this same truck for 20 years.

Make sure you have spark. Crank sensor is located at the back passenger side of the engine just infront of the the transmission bell housing, coil is on the side of the engine right next to the distributor, and also make sure that you do not have a broken ECU. I had one once that I fought an intermittent problem with dying for no apparent reason. Truck would usually fire right back up, but would die at unrelated intervals. Ended up being the center plug on the ECU. Took two replacement ECUs to get one that was good as the first replacement had the same issue of being broken on the center plug in.

Did you do a fault code test to see if anything shows up that might explain the no spark? The ignition control module is part of the ECM in this truck you might have a defective circuit.

So, you performed a tune up, did you also replace the fuel filter ?