The problem could be the drivers seat module.It is under the seat and controls the drivers seat functions.There is a service bulletin for seats that will only work for a few minutes and then shut off by themselves.The fix for this is having the drivers seat module reprogrammed but I don`t know if your problem would fall in this bulletin.Only the dealerships can program these modules.Hope this helps.Good luck.
It's a simple job, it does require the removal of the intake manifold as the knock sensors are mounted under it. I'm posting a link to a video that explains it well, be sure to use top quality intake gaskets when reassembling your Suburban's Engine. No big deal,6yuve got this, ask more questions if you need more answers!
This will require a quality diagnostic scanner, the dealer has them but call any/all friends and local shops that aren’t quite as big and busy(or expensive) as your local GM Dealer. They’ll hook the scanner into your OBD2 Diagnostic Port And can Test your Body Control Module along with any other modules and all of your sensors, etc. A good diagnostic scanner is all you’ll need. Check the local parts stores bubble calling to see if their scanner is capable of reading more complex info like the various modules, I’ve noticed a few local to me that have good diagnostic scanners and are capable of telling you a lot- for FREE!
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2005 Suburban Z71 4WD I had similar situation. No 12 volt positive to 7 trailer. Under my hood at the fuse panel, the red 12v + wire was connected to Stud # 1 which is on the left side of fuse box. There is a square fuse right next to this stud. I put a 40 amp fuse in it. I use this power to charge a battery in a trailer as I am hauling.
You start your trouble shooting by hooking up a professional type scanner that can check DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes from the control module for the load leveling system.
Gauges in the instrument panel (IPC) are electronically controlled by it - changing the battery may have damaged it. Try resetting the IPC by removing the negative battery cable for 15 minutes, and then reconnecting it. Otherwise, you may have to replace the IPC.
So they stay on until your battery goes dead? If it's just the parking lights. I would probably start by checking at the back of the headlight switch to see if it's switching the parking light output off. There is also a Parking LP relay in the underhood fuse block. You might want to swap another like relay in for it and see if it fixes it. There are probably more relays in that block just like it that you can use to try.
Actually starting at the relay would be easiest. The park lamp on switch signal at your headlight switch should be the gray/black wire in pin 2 of the connector
I would check the grounds for these circuits. Clean them and tighten them. Bad grounds can cause funny things. I certainly wouldn't pay $750 to fix it. I'm not sure of your skill level so if you aren't able to handle it, I'm sure you can find a reputable shop that can do it cheaper than that.
Have a fuel pressure leak down test run on the fuel pump. This is a symptom of the electric pump pressure check valve being defective, the valve is part of the fuel pump and it is mounted in the fuel tank. Also make sure you are using 87 Octane gasoline, higher octanes can cause stall issues on cold starts.
Under the dash, where the break release handle is, you'll see a lever where the release cable is/was attached to. Either push forward, or pull back this lever and it will release the parking break. BE CAREFUL the foot peddle for the parking break doesn't hit you in the face! Mine broke on the 2nd of this month as well....
Sounds likely that either the fuse has blown, the connector underneath the seat has come unplugged, or the wires under the seat have been severed. (Most likely a blown fuse.)
