DO NOT DRILL A HOLE! Drop the tank!
Your basically guessing when you drill the hole AND the heat generated by the drill could ignite any fuel that is in the tank!
If there isn't an access panel under the rear seats, dropping the tank is the ONLY safe way to do this. It's a pain in the tail-bone job but its the safest method.
If your security warning light is on and it's refusing to start it is most likely that the anti-theft system has been triggered. Go back to the basics first. Some of these will sound obvious. Is it the correct key? Is the battery in the key fob working, (Does it work the door locks)? Is the battery on the vehicle fully charged? Has the battery been disconnected recently?
If all of these are OK then there must be a more serious issue. All I can suggest is contacting a Good Auto Electrician and get him to scan the cars OBD2 system for trouble codes as clues to the problem. *NOTE* get quotes from a few Auto Electricians as the fees they charge can be very different.
if you are not a professional with the necessary equipment and training, your best bet is to not mess with it, because it could kill you. The term "airbag" Is a misnomer; because it is not an airbag, it is an explosive device and if you do the wrong thing, it could blow up in your face. Sodium azide is the chemical found in automobile airbags. An electrical charge triggered by automobile impact causes sodium azide to explode and convert to nitrogen gas inside the airbag. Actually, there has been an occurrence where an airbag exploded while being installed before the wires were connected. It was set off by the static charge from friction between the mechanics pants on the seat upholstery
I really don't think you would have a fuse problem . You should hope not anyway , fuse's don't go bad or blow for no reason . A blown fuse would be caused by a direct short to ground on a battery power supply circuit , high current draw . I would look at the flasher or switch as probable cause . Viewing a wiring diagram an testing the electrical circuits is the best way to find the problem . Turn Lamps
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied from the IP fuse block T/SIG/BU LP/BTSI fuse 1B via CKT 539 (PNK) through the turn signal flasher to the normally closed switch in the turn/hazard switch via CKT 16 (PPL). With the turn switch in the left turn position, battery positive voltage (B+) is applied through the turn switch and two paths to the turn lamps. One path is to the left front park/turn lamps and the side marker lamps via CKT 14 (LT BLU). The second path is supplied to the left tail/stop/turn lamps via CKT 18 (YEL). The lamps go on immediately. The lights begin to flash when the current heats up the timing element in the flasher, and the flasher repeatedly opens and closes the circuit. A similar procedure is followed when the turn switch is in the right turn position. Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the right front park/turn lamps and the side marker lamps via CKT 15 (DK BLU). Battery positive voltage (B+) is supplied to the right tail/stop/turn lamps via CKT 19 (DK GRN).
http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb
You may have issues inside the transmission but the first thing I would do in a situation like that is buy a filter and gasket kit and 5 -6 quarts transmission fluid and try changing the filter and 5 quarts fluid. Trans. actually hold 12-13 quarts but you'll only be draining out 5-6. If that doesn't cure it you may have a worn out clutch pack and/or accumulator. I hope that helps you going again. Jesus loves you, John 3:16-17 (KJV)
Obviously can be one of a very large number of problems. If there are no trouble codes (DTCs), still could be a possible fuel delivery system (fuel pump, filter, regulator, throttle body) or ignition problem. I would start by checking the fuel pressure carefully - too high or low will cause this. Also the coil pack can fail without a trouble code - check for spark at a plug.
Could be a bad cable. If it is broken into, you'll get swings like this. If you are handy, you can replace it yourself. If not, most garages can do it for you.
Sounds like a head gasket leak. Have a cooling system pressure test and cylinder leakdown test performed. In the meantime, you should NOT drive this vehicle or you'll cause more damage.
Very common problem on GM vehicles. The security system fails and won't recognize the key anymore. You can bypass these systems now and eliminate them entirely.
Do It Yourself GM Security bypass
Seems like the noise is related to torque reaction from the engine/power unit that can move quite a lot under acceleration/deceleration especially if an engine mount is soft or broken.
Perhaps the exhaust or similar is badly positioned and is too close to the bodywork.
Searching for a noise that can't be duplicated on a workshop hoist needs imagination and some carefully placed brute force...
Check engine light on ? Have it check for DTC'S diagnostic trouble codes . New fuel pump ,new gas cap,because check lite comes., just replacing parts is not the way to fix car's ! Testing the fuel management system ,viewing scan data on a capable scan tool is. Your best bet take it to a qualified repair shop. What are the fuel trims at +- 10% Do you know what short an long term fuel trims are ? The computers ability to control fuel delivery . What's mass air flow sensor data parameters , coolant temp sensor ,are the O2 sensors switching correctly ,
mechanic now thinks it might be in the charcoll pollution canister??? this surging is driving me nuts ???????? You better find a real automotive technician .
007 Idle Speed Problems Scan Data for Idle
