20 Most Recent 1996 Buick Century - Page 3 Questions & Answers

It should have bolts holding down the back of the seat. If you can get to these, remove them. Most CAR seats do not have bolts in the front - only tabs that slide into slots in the floorboard. Once the rear bolts are out, you should be able to slide the seat loose and remove it. There will be a wire plugged in underneath or on the seat belt assembly that you will have to unplug before removing the seat.

Check this site for ignition fuse blow issues: ignition fuse keeps blowing Car Forums and Automotive Chat

Look for a "3" Amp fuse on the Fuse Block as it will be singularly used for just the Clock and should be clearly marked "Clock." The Clock should have a Red wire running out of it to the Fuse Block to power it. The Clock is typically wired separately. The red wiring will not be in front as it goes into the wiring harness and in the back of the Fuse Block but if you want to hunt for the Clock wire that will be it running out of a segment of the harness heading for the location of your Clock.

You have to replace the blower motor. They don't use resistors anymore, each motor speed connects to a different spot on the motor windings to control the speed.

This might have something to do with the anti theft system.. Its a common issue. There are a few fix's I used one after a ton of research

best way is to remove lenze and get to bulb with a test light connect tester lead to power and test bulb wires with brake lights on and you will prove your ground is working also autozone library has a very good section on this

A bad ground on the middle lights could cause the brake light to go out. Also, a bad ground on the brake light would cause it to go out. Check all your grounds. A lack of power to the 2 middle lights shouldn't cause that problem. See if the wires to the middle lights tie onto wires for other lights and check right there for voltage. Check your fuse, if the fuse is good, go on back from there to the lights that aren't working. That's how I'd do it, anyway. Garcuda

P1441 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge
The evap system is your egr valve, carbon canister, pcv valve, gas cap, and fuel tank vent, The most common fix for this problem is a new gas cap and then your done. It is about 15 dollars and then you pass smog. If this has been of any help please reate. Thank you

Under hood with green cap on it Don't change parts based on some code Codes have nothing to do with parts They are used to diagnose a system & component test No testing & no failed parts found,you learn nothing, fix nothing,common sense Why throw new parts at good one?

Does the compressor kick in when you turn it on?(if not it could be the a/c switch or the power to it, the a/c clutch wire connection, the clutch itself, or it's low on freon) You should hear the clutch kick in when you turn the a/c on. Low freon will also cause the clutch to not kick in. Remove the low-pressure switch plug and jump it with a piece of electrical wire. If the clutch kicks in, you just need to add some freon. Put the plug back where it was after you remove the jumper wire. Is the belt on and adjusted to the right tension? If the belt is loose it won't cool as good as it should. Check the freon in the system with a gage. If it's low, add some to the right amount and see if it cools. If it is overcharged, it will blow hot air, too. The heater control valve slider should be all the way to the left so hot water isn't allowed to circulate through the heater core which would also make it blow hot air out the a/c ducts. Good luck, they can be a pain, but with careful, step by step troubleshooting it can be fixed. There is plenty of information about a/c online to help you out. Try googling in: auto ac troubleshooting tips for more info. garcuda

fuse box is on the right side of the dash to the left of the glove box not under the hood.

have the brakes inspected by an accredited brake shop as something has come undone causing the light to come on.

disconnect all electrical wiring harness that is attached to motor, disconnect exhaust, disconnect intake hoses, drain cooling system remove radiator, undo motor mounts, disconnect transmission, disconnect auto trans flex plate and attach engine crane remove engine replace torque converter and solenoids and reinstall or disconnect electrical from transmission and cooler lines and driveshaft and support trans with jack and undo cross member and drop transmission out of vehicle with jack supporting it and then rebuild transmission

located under the dash by the steering colume , if you put the signal light on then look under the dash you will be able to find this flasher but hearing and feeling which flasher is making the noise. then look for another flasher that looks the same this will be the hazard flasher.

Coolant temp sensor and a couple of relays. The fan units can burn out too.