20 Most Recent 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder - Page 2 Questions & Answers

It sounds to me like you have a grounded positive wire going to the chasis of the car. This causes your battery to go dead. Check radio conections as this wire might be from the speakers. Good luck!!

Make sure battery is good, battery terminals and cables/connectors connected to alternator correctly and belts adjusted to manufactured specifications. Check to see where the whining noise is coming from, if still present. If not the belts or pulleys it could be the starter.

it sounds to me thats blocked up on your side have alook if it is well dont if not you blow heater is breaking down

There are books called "Hollander Interchange" which most salvage yards use that include this information. The books are expensive such that you need to cultivate a friend in the business to help you, or perhaps some other person here has specific knowledge.

Check list for fun! how old are the bulbs? are they broken? burned? new? Have you been in an accident that may have caused come issue either physical damage or electrical problems? Is everything connected any loose wires? The lights are automatic or not? If you have to turn them on manually is the lever or knob functioning properly? it could be very simple or a bit complicated. Hope that by checking these areas you are able to discover what the issue is. Also another thing to keep in mind is are the other lights working well? Good luck!

yeah,amp is under pass seat - either your window is leaking badly or your drain hose for the evap case is clogged up

Did you check the socket and wires immediately nearby? I assume it is isolated to just one bulb. If not, check brake light switch behind pedal and fuse. Also, switch bulbs around just in case.

Only a dealer or repair shop doing the proper testing, would be replacing that item, which hardly ever fails Once replaced, it would most likely have to be reflashed as built & updated ,if there are any

run the fault codes and fix what ever put the ECM in safe mode . Then using a scanner reset the ecm/CPU program

Here's what I found for you: http://engine-codes.com/p0507_mitsubishi.html

change your oil and oil filter. Add a bottle of octane boost to the fuel tank then top off with fuel. Drive vehicle for about twenty minutes then have emissions tested. Unless you have a bad catalytic converter, you should pass emissions.

The passenger side has a inner and outer shaft and you would remove the axle nut and shaft from spindle then the center bracket and bearing (two bolts against engine block), sliding out the axle assembling at that point, or jerking it out, careful not to pull on the cv axle end but rather the jack, or inner, shaft. After removal, separate the middle by hanging upside down and taking a hammer to it, striking the inner shaft while turning around. Dont hit the dust shield or seals. Install in reverse order. Quick tip: you may get around removing ball joint by only removing both strut bolts, and possibly tie rod end bolt.

YOU NEED A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB PUSHING THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB,THEN TAP THE SHAFT UNION AT THE JOINT CASE WITH A PLASTIC HAMMER TO REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT AND INNER SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE. IF YOU HAVE AN INNER SHAFT REMOVE THE HALFSHAFT BY SETTING UP A PULLER ON THE OUTSIDE WHEEL HUB AND PRESSING THE HALFSHAFT FROM THE FRONT HUB. AFTER PRESSING THE OUTER SHAFT INSERT A PRYBAR BETWEEN THE TRANSAXLE CASE AND THE HALFSHAFT AND PRY THE HALF SHAFT FROM THE TRANSAXLE DONT PULL ON THE SHAFT.

Probably the wave spring washer which is a common failure on these transmissions. Check the pan for metal parts if this happens. You'll have to replace it if so, but make sure they use the updated, thicker washer (part # 2741A007).