20 Most Recent 2001 Mitsubishi Diamante - Page 8 Questions & Answers

It appears that the 2001 mitsubishi diamante is an interference engine, so it is possible that you have damaged your valves. Have it inspected by a mechanic before operating the starter.

Annie-first, have your son remove the battery cables and scrub the terminals and the posts with a wire brush-you need a bottle brush type to do the battery clamps, and a straight wire brush to do the battery posts. I would bet that this has not been done in a very long time, and the symptoms you are describing sound like a bad, intermittent connection. A nice little side effect of doing this is you will clear, at least temporarily, the check engine light. Have him make sure the clamps are tight, start it up (it will start, have faith).

The power steering is another issue, and sounds like a bad steering rack, just make sure the drive belt is tight-there's not a whole lot else you can do about that if it is the rack until you can have it replaced. Warmer weather may get you by long enough to go a while until it has to be done. GEt back to me after the terminals are cleaned, if you have more questions-Mike

cheak under the dash on the drver side or remove the upolstry under the steering wheel to get a better view

You need to pull the radio out, get the serial # off of it and take it to the dealer. They can get you the unlock code for the radio unless someone has changed it.

well, i had a similar problem. all i did was adjust the settings torque. it is sitting right on top of the engine when u open the hood no need to take anything off to do this. you will find it

you hit it on the head. that sounds like a hydraulic pressure problem. If you are low on brake fluid it is probably a leak (line, caliper, etc.) and there should be a brake "warning" light of some kind that is on. If 'no' to both of those, it is most likely a bad brake master cylinder. it goes without saying the car is very dangerous to drive...

Had the same thing. The didtributor was going bad. Lived with it for a few months finally it died. 1 year after replacing the distributor the problem started again. Glad I got a warranty on the distributor. Running great now on the second distributor.

Well it sounds like either the muffler itself has a rupture in the outer shell or the exhaust pipe going into the inlet may have a hole or a bad weld (or loose clamp if it's not welded in place) as to the heat shield you'ld just need to raise & support the vehicle and really inspect exhaust to pinpoint problem and see if the heat shield has been replaced too. I'd imagine the top of the muffler has blown out and all that heat is hitting the trunk pan and melting your carpet

you will have to call mitsubishi with your vin# and have the raido out so ou can give them info off the raido.

The regulator is inside the alternator.
There is a trem call tri-diodes.
It's a AC to DC rectifier part that will break over 5+ years or 60,000 miles.
The output will read fine at about 13.6V but under a scope the ripple will damage computer (ECU).
I recommend you bring the car is a GOOD shop or a battery specialized store like Sears Automotive and let them use there $600+ test equipment to check out the alternator.
Make sure you change the belt and alternator at the same time.

just look at them to see if any is blown

Did you call the police ?

Below are two diagrams showing the relay locations for your vehicle. Hope this helps. :)

The EGR valve is usually to the right side of motor triangular shape which has 3 screws.There is a metal pipe coming underneath which send excess "smoke" thro it. It tends to carbon up so needs to be cleaned.There are also 3 "pintle valves" on springs inside and the springs could be weakened/carboned up causing the valves to remain open/shut.

Probably a bad wheel speed sensor. The abs works by sensing the wheel speeds. When the computer does not see a signal from a wheel over a period of time, it will shut down the abs turning the light on... otherwise it would think that wheel was locked (like on ice) and try to pulse the brakes at all other three wheels causing driveability issues and an unsafe condition.

A dealers diagnostic device can isolate the wheel with the faulty signal. A smaller garage may be able to do it but if they dont have the equipment to diagnose which wheel has the error it may actually cost you more in labor in the long run. Ask if they have the equipment for such tests.

i think you have more than one fault here ,firstly i think you may neeed a new speedo head here ,its all electronic circuits and their is a fault hwre i think with either the connector or the unit itself ,the windscreen washer is most likely a pump or the stalk switch ,but i would test the pump first .though as this is the most common fault here ,

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine coolant.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Timing belt Alternator brace from the water pump Timing belt rear cover Water pump mounting bolts Water pump, gasket and O-ring
   

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   
   New O-ring on the water inlet pipe. Coat the O-ring with water or coolant. Do not allow oil or other grease to contact the O-ring. Water pump to the engine block, with new gasket. Torque the mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm) Alternator brace on the water pump. Torque the brace pivot bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). Timing belt rear cover Timing belt Remaining components
   
2. Refill the engine with coolant.
3. Connect the negative battery cable, start the engine and check for leaks.

Hope this gets you back on the road.

You have a loose ground somewhere.
Try looking on the firewall in the engine compartment or along the fender inside the compartment as well

Yes, if a car doesn't have a working horn, it would, in most if not all states fail a safety inspection.
If you hear a click, then it could be the relay clicking or the horn trying to operate. Likely, it's just a bad horn or a bad ground connection at the horn relay.

I would take the vehicle back to the repairman and ask about the horn and repairing it, or have the inspector who failed it repair it for you.

Horns go bad on cars due to corrosion or non use over time. I've had a few go bad on motorcycles which were even stored in a garage. Opened one up one time and found rust on the contacts that made it not work or oscillate to make a sound that is audible.

I think that you could locate the horn, and see if all of the wires are physically there, and try a test light to ground it out, as horns should always have power (as long as the battery is charged up) whether or not the ignition is on.

If you ground out one or the other terminals with a test light, at the horn, then it should beep.
If not, then the horn itself is bad.

Replace with new.
It is really that simple.

I have a 1997 Cadillac Deville that wasn't used for a while and the horn went bad on it and it was replaced as one of the items required for Pennsylvania State Inspection.