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1991 Mitsubishi Montero - Page 5 Questions & Answers
Low idle and low oil pressure and now valve
Great truck I am now on my second with 280K miles. The lower oil pressure is probably a combination of a worn pump and now worn bearings with greater clearances.. thus less pressure. The oil pump on your 3.0 V6 is located behind the front crank pulley. To access it I'd strongly recommend pulling the entire engine as the oil pan will need to be removed and the fron of the engine will have to go too. Your engine is found in many cars including the dodge stealth and Mitsubishi 3000GT. I belive the years to 1992 run the same pistons and compression after which they run at 10-1 and use a knocks sensor which your truck does not use. I would locate a good used block and check its clearances and cylinders if it requires rebuild I'd have this done and then fit with rebuilt heads or remove your engine and have the short block rebuilt and have the heads fitted with new valve guildes and seals (have valves gound too) You can check ebay or craiglest for a block see link:
http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=mitsubishi+3.0+engine&_sacat=See-All-Categories
for rebuild kits and such, I love my Montero she has the aerodynamics of a barn but never lets me down. It is a lot of work but in my view worth the time to do.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom
Trans
replace the Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) on the transmission, it senses when trans should be shfited to overdrive by the Transmission control module.
My 1991 Mits Montero 4WD will not get out of Wheel Lock
Just to get back to basics, the Montero will need to be in two wheel drive to unlock its hubs. To do so the Montero must be placed in reverse and backed-up @ 10-20 feet or so. (during cold weather you may have to drive around abit to heat-up the grease in the hubs so they'll unlock) if this does not unluck them (and it is clearly out of 4WD there is a mechanical problem with the hubs and they need to be rebuilt.
I hope this may have helped,
Tom
Turn off maint. reqd. light on 1991 montero
hi all about,
the indicator has a RESET right at the back of the speedometer.
Very easy to do - just remove a few screws and a few panel wire
connections (be careful when press/pull the connections) � Once the
panel is removed, pull the light bolt by twisting and pulling on the
back end� here make sure you do NOT touch the plastic circuits on the
back of the panel.
On a difficulty scale of 1 to 5, I give this work a 1 / (Est. �do it yourself� saving $75.00)
else:
The 'maintenance required" light comes on at 50k, 80k, and 100k miles to remind you that service is needed to keep your vehicle operating correctly. At 100,000 miles, the service called for is timing belt replacement; this should be performed if it has not been done previously, since if the timing belt breaks it will result in extensive internal engine damage.
At the 2 earlier service intervals, the light was reset by removing the instrument cluster from the vehicle and flipping a reset switch located on the back of the cluster. The service manual states that at 100,000 miles the bulb should be removed since tehre are no further time intervals to follow at this age for major routine service.
more on just answers...
regards,
voodoo
BLOCKED heater core
remove one of the heater core hoses at the bulk head or firewall and loop together where they go to the engine so no coolant goes into cab (through firewall)
1988 2.5 t oil leaking from turbo
If oil is physically leaking from the turbo, out the exhaust side, the turbine side seal needs to be replaced. Based on it being a 1988 it probably needs to be gone through completely(replace seals & bearings) or replace the turbo. If the oil switch is leaking you will need to clean around the switch and verify if the fitting is leaking or the switch is leaking.
Where is the horn relay on a 1991 Mitsubishi Montero
Although the Haynes repair manual did not have an electrical diagram for the horn circuit, I suddenly remembered I had an old CD-ROM based Auto Repair program from Popular Mechanics that has an extensive selection of diagrams. It did have a diagram for the horn circuit which showed that there was no horn relay in the circuit. So I started by taking apart the horn button on the steering wheel. The horn button is a switch consisting of two metal discs approximately two inches in diameter which are separated by a thin layer of foam which is supposed to keep the two discs separated. The metal discs have dimples that should be kept apart by the resiliency of the foam but when the foam is compacted, the dimples come together to complete the circuit. However, the foam had deteriorated to almost nothing and was allowing the two discs to be in constant contact. I solved the problem using picture hanging tape. This is a double-sided adhesive tape that is about 1/16 inch thick and comes in a roll and can be found probably anywhere hardware is sold. I cut the tape into small squares and stuck them to strategic points on the flat parts of one of the discs so that they would keep the discs apart with approximately the same resiliency as the foam. When external pressure is applied to the outer disc, the dimples come together just like before to complete the circuit and the horn works perfectly.
One thing I would like to point out is that when I initially took the horn apart, I started by removing the outer soft rubber cover from the horn pad to expose the horn button. It came off easily, but when it came time to put it back together, I could not get the cover back on. Then I discovered that there are three phillips head screws on the back side of the steering wheel that hold the horn button assembly in place. So to save time and frustration, I would recommend that step one be to remove those screws first.
Mitsubishi Pajero Exceed 1997 Model
I solve this problem with Mitshubishi Pajero GDI 6G74 like this: remove the two little filters from the high pressure pump and ,if necessary, insert a external gasoline filter.
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