20 Most Recent 1985 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Questions & Answers

remove the fuel line from the filter and turn the engine on fuel flow pump good no fuel flow replace pump/ fuse follow the fuel line from the tank to find the pump

there is a proportioning valve to the rear brakes that only allows them to operate fully under load or heavy braking. If it is faulty then full brakes will be applied to the rear which will allow them to lock up first. Check pad/shoe condition and rear drum/shoe adjustment as well

I realize this is a very old post, but I just encountered the same problem....no juice at all to ignition from battery......the problem was the 3 weird looking fuses attached to the positive battery cable. I replaced all 3 for about $12.00 and she fired right up. Some models have a fuse box/panel....mine does not, and these 3 fuses are critical for getting current to the ignition.I'm sure by now you have it figured out, but for anyone in the future, this may help.

replace bulbs diagrams available at autozone website

try the www.autozone.com site they have many.

That is normal, It is called a fast idle, during engine warmup

Not without using the chevy transmission (and transfer case if it's a 4WD Mighty Max), Custom Motor Mounts, Custom Transmission Mount, Wiring Modifications, Driveshaft Modifications (either lengthened or shortened, depending on where the transmission or transfer case is located). Possibly shifter hole modifications (if it's a 5-Speed Manual), or Custom Linkage/Linkage Modifications (If it's an Automatic)

take out the distributor cap. is the rotor turning, yes, no no then the timing belt is broken. Okay now let say you crank it and the distributor does turn. put the cap back on. lets check for pwer at the coil if you dont have a test light get a wire a long one wire not a cable. okay identify the positive port of the coil it will be mark with a (+) sign that means positive now connect it to the (+) positive of the battery and have some on crank it . you should have spark.... what still no spark okay youll need a ignition module.

It could be many things that cause a vehicle not to start. Check all your fuses and make sure they are good. Make sure your fuel pump is kicking on. You may also have a problem with the ignition system. What all have you tried so far?

Your new battery is probably discharged.
Here are the things that cause it. And the things that don't.

The voltage regulator controls how much electricity is used to charge the battery and how much is going into the electrical system of the car. The electrical system may has been designed to integrate the voltage regulator into the case of the alternator. If that is the issue, the alternator can be replaced, or if there is a skilled person that does rebuilds in your area, he will know how to change the diodes in the voltage regulating section of the alternator. You can save money this way. If you have a volt meter or a multimeter. Commonly around $25.00 these days, you should get a reading of around 12 volts from the battery when it is charged and the engine is off. If the battery is down, the voltage should still be in that area, but not enough of a kick behind it to do anything but light a small bulb. When the car is started and the voltage regulator is doing it's job you should get at least 13.5 volts DC at the battery terminals.

Many of the symptoms that occur also happen because of poor electrical contact at the battery.
Use Baking soda and water to clean the terminals of the battery of corrosion. And then use a battery cleaning tool for the battery posts and the battery wire clamps that go around the post. Make sure all of the connectors and wiring is sound.

I would then test all of this doing the following steps..

Charge up the battery.

Then connect the system and do the voltage checks. If the Battery is charging properly, the regulator will gradually reduce the charging voltage it is using to charge.

After 15 minutes, shut the engine down and check the battery voltage. and turn on the headlights to see if they are still bright.

If the voltage is at 12 volts DC the battery will live. If you are not getting enough charging voltage, which I believe is the situation then the voltage will constantly be to low at the battery. It will be the battery running the car and the bulbs and other things will go lower and lower.

One very simple test of a charging system is to charge the battery, start the engine, then pull the positive terminal off of the battery. If the engine dies, then the voltage being generated from the alternator is too weak.

Hope all of this helps,
Happy New Year,
Mark

possible low coolant in radiator or contaminated coolant like rust

The a/c recharge kit will only fit on the low side. So you can't get a can to fit on the high side.

Just go buy a Haynes repair manual 68040 or 30045 they both have the timing belt diagram in them. Can find a used manual cheap on E-BAY or about 15.00 new at auto parts store

I have a factory manual for a 1985 MightyMax if that would help. I could send the section that you need.

Was the thermostat put in backwards? I know this is a silly question, but I've seen it happen. The water pump will fight it if it is. Another thing are the coolant passages, are they flushed out? Also, if that fan clutch is the original one, I would go ahead and replace that as insurance against the water pump breaking.

First thing to check would be the timing belt.

Any trouble codes? There should be a code registered by now. That should point you to the problem. And if not, you probably need to look at the sensors data feed when the problem is going on. Look at live streaming data, I mean, the MAF, oxygen sensor, in fact all of the sensor data.