20 Most Recent 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4WD - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Most times this is caused by uneven tire ware causing transmission wind up ,Jack up a front wheel ,it will spin a quarter turn or so and take the strain of the transmission.

Sounds like a "misfire"; I guess you have the "Check Engine" light on as well; scan the computer for fault codes and deal with them accordingly.

The PCM's have a keep alive memory built in them. When you cut power for an extended amount of time, this resets. It can cause a rough idle and rough run for a short time (which could be days or weeks). Depends on driving habits. It has to relearn. With a hand held computer to the car, it takes up to two hours of driving to reprogram. With out this, takes up to 30 days. It will get better as you go. If it doesn't after a week or so. Have it diagnosed...

Where did you get the code from?

At the back catalytic con.

This usually means that there is a misfire that could be many things. Try replacing the spark plugs first. Then if the motor mounts are weak or worn out the shaking will be more noticeable. Recommend you replace the worn motor mounts.

I have had the exact problem. I've changed altenator 3 times also and it has the same leak, but I've changed altenator an batterys over 2 year span. It just happend to me today after not driving it for 5 months. It's been in storage while I was away. Drive it fine for 2 days but today the radio kept shutting off and finally the car died right in the middle of the road. Bought a new battery because I had a warranty on last battery, but bought it just to get it home and in the driveway. Did you ever find out what was wrong with it?

It is normal for the A/C air to warm up a little when stopped. Less airflow thru the condensor. It is normal for the engine temperature gage to rise up to about the 80% mark on its scale before the cooling fan kicks on. The gage will also show about the same reading on the first start of the day, until the thermostat opens.

If the fan(s) are not working properly the air and engine temperature will rise. If you have a belt driven clutch fan, the clutch may be worn out. All cooling fans kinda sound like miniture jet engines when its hot out, more so when the A/C is on. Replacing the clutch is all you can do for a belt driven fan. Electric fans are more complicated....Check all main power electrical connections first.... Electric Fan(s) not working, Checking the fan(s), relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.Verify that the fans work by unplugging them and run jumper wires to the fan(s) from the battery. If they run, your problem lies elsewhere. If either does not run, it's the motor.Next thing to check is for power at the fan connectors. You have to be cautious doing this because the engine needs to be running and warm if not almost hot, and the A/C also needs to be on. (Both must be on and running for the duration of this checklist.) The A/C fan is on the passenger side and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. It is also the secondary engine cooling fan and should cycle on and off in relation to engine temperature. Use a test light to probe the two wires on each fan. If you find power the fan motor(s) is/are probably bad. If there is no power to fans, roll up your sleeves!The temperature switch is usually located above the oil filter. If the dash gage is working, its probably OK. Next is the Fan Control Temperature Sensor, located IN or CLOSE to the thermostat housing. You will find out if it is working later is this checklist. I just wanted you to know where it is. Next is the relays and fuse's. Usually located in the engine compartment on the passenger side power distribution box. You will need to remove anything over the cover to open it. If the fuses are OK, tap on the relays or pull them out and push back in. If the fans are still not running, pull a relay and probe the socket terminals for power. Two or three of the terminals should have power, usually criss-cross from each other. Two are hot battery power, and the third is the "signal" voltage which triggers the relay to send 12V battery power to the fan. This signal voltage comes from the sensor at the thermostat. If only two terminal's have power, then I would replace the thermostat sensor if not both sensors.Hope this is clear as mud! and helps! Please let me know what you find.

Replace alternator belt on 2001 Mitsubishi Montero YouTube

The idle is controlled by the computer, based off of sensor readings. Whenever I replace the battery in my Montero, the car won't idle very well because the computer has been reset and it has to 'learn' the environment. After I drive it for a day or two it runs fine. It is pretty simple to try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes to reset your computer. Take it for a long drive afterwards so the computer re-learns the environment and see if resetting the computer fixes the bad idle. I would think the service engine light would be on if you had a sensor issue.

The jack is or should be located in one of the panels in the rear of the delica in the boot area,think its the right hand side

Have them replaced Go to You Tube Video & watch how Do both sides I would got to a local shop that has been there for 20 years,not a franchise

if i'm not mistaken its under the vehicle if the compressor is mounted lower driver side of the engine go thru the fender well by the front tire , have worked on a couple of monteros but that seems to come to mind , hope it helps

Google it FixYa is a social web site- have no info other than what people look up for you Everyone's at home ask or answer

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