20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Uplander - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Ivan, which face plate are you referring to? For the stereo, instrument cluster? Please be more specific.

Replace the 3 rear plugs from the bottom of the car. Jack it up and go up from the bottom of the engine. you will need a flex extension. No need to remove anything but the plugs. Did this for my Montana and was not hard at all except getting the boots off.

have problem with my uplander the problem is the cylinder 2 iis misfire how can i fix it

you need to attach a scan tool computer to read the codes that set the lights on,sounds like a wheel speed sensor which also upsets the traction control and sets off gearbox control light

Either the steering box is bad or you have a colapsed steering presure line,, if you have hit any large pot holes or curbs,,, or in wreck,, i would say steering box,,,, if not,,,, the presure hose or return hose is bad,,,,, or if it rack and pinion steering the whole unit will need replaced

check coolant level

You need to find out what security code has set and then proceed. It sounds as if the ecm has lost ability to communicate with the other modules via the data bus.

Remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper, remove the caliper bracket and rotor. Remove the nut from the axle. Remove the two bolts and nuts from the strut. Pull the spindle out and push the axle in. You might have to use a hammer and punch to get the axle to go in. Don't hit the axle with the hammer, you could mess up the threads. You only need the axle back far enough to get a socket on the bearing bolts. Then remove the three bolts that hold the bearing. unplug the sensor. You might have to beat the bearing out. If you have access to air tools/impact guns, get them. Makes the job much easier. If not, have breaker bars and cheater bars handy.

If your hub (wheel bearing) is starting to go bad, the sensor can fault as well for the ABS (stabilitrack, etc) as it is all inside the hub assembly. Whatever the issue, once it is resolved, the light will go out. A scan should tell you which wheel is throwing you the code. The instrument cluster can be taken out pretty easily (2 trim screws and 4 on cluster itself I think) and the bulbs are easy to put out and replace. My cluster was replaced under warranty for 1 burnt out bulb and got a reman that crapped out after a year now out of warranty.

The one closest to the motor & before or in the converter inlet Gets replaced on all vehicles at 100,000 miles Down Stream Sensor, is in converter outlet,& called a Monitor

Two possible causes...one could be the wheel bearings. If so you will notice a rumble or roar when driving that is more pronounced when you turn one way versus the other...the other could be brake trouble itself...check your pads, fluid level and such...!!!

Quick fix for code p0446 evap emissions vent circuit low.

As the title says: some might have an ses p0446, evap emissions vent circuit low. If you take it to the dealer they want 300-400.00 to fix the problem. GM has a service bulletin on this condition and have the updated part for 180.00, thats suppose to eliminate this issue. Basically the problem is, the evap purge vent valve gets clogged with dirt, especially if the truck is used in dirty conditions. Well I figured there had to be a cheaper way to cure this problem. Here it is: 1) find the location of the vent valve; its under the truck, locate the charcoal canister on the front of the gas tank and trace the vent line to the vent valve. 2) Take the bracket loose with a 5/8 wrench. 3) Spin the valve around so the side with the hole is facing you. 4) Take an air compressor and blow the vent valve out. 5) reinstall and clear the code and it's fixed. Now I know the updated part from gm is supposed to keep the valve from clogging ever again, but why spend the money when all you have to do is blow out the vent valve every 50k-100kmi and save your $$$!

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If there aren't any visible screws, it is most likely held on by those plastic pins that attach to the back of the panel and pop in holes in the metal hatch itself. If so, just be careful and use a screw driver and slide it up under one edge, and put a cloth between the screw driver and the painted metal hatch so you don't scratch it up. Then just gently pry along the side and you should be able to get it started coming apart, then once you can get your hand behind it, just keep gently pulling on the cover and continue popping it loose by hand. If any of the plastic pins break, don't worry, you can get new ones at any auto parts store for just a few bucks.