Top 10 2006 Chevrolet Colorado Questions & Answers

security lockout on the fuel. 10 mins later it will start

Mine did the same thing at 16K miles, I cleaned the throttle body and the ploblem went away. Took me about 30 minutes.

No, it can not be disabled.
The theft system is indicating a short term theft issue.
Have you added any "after market" remote start systems or alarms?
If NO.
Insert the key in the ignition, turn the key to run position ( do not start ) and leave it in that position for 10 minutes. Cycle the key to LOCK position, count to 10, then turn the key back to run position and leave on for 10 more minutes. After the 10 minutes is up, repeat the procedure (1) more time and the security system will relearn the PASS code.
Give it a try and let me know.
Regards,

find where top hose comes from the radiator into the engine block, then drain some of the coolant out and remove hose and thermostat from the block. remember which way the termostat sits in the block and install new one. its always a good idea to flush your cooling system before putting in a new thermostat. if the old one was plugged up, the gunk thats in your system will just plug up the new one in time too. you can get a bottle of radiator flush from most auto parts stores.

You didn't list your engine size so please pick the applicable to your motor size:

Removal & Installation 2.8L & 2.9L Engines To Remove:

1. Lift the vehicle high enough to gain access to the knock sensor (KS) through the left front wheelhouse.
2. Remove the left front wheel and wheelhouse liner.

Knock sensor (KS) (A), Engine harness (B), Knock sensor (KS) connector (C)

1. Disconnect the knock sensor (KS) connector.
2. Detach the knock sensor (KS) from the engine block.

To Install:

1. Attach the knock sensor (KS) to the engine block.
   • Tighten the bolt to 18 ft lbs (25 Nm).
2. Connect the knock sensor (KS) connector.
3. Install the left front wheelhouse liner and wheel.
4. Fully lower the vehicle.

2005 Colorado 4x4 stick shift – I had the same thing happen and it had to do with the passlock system – it will keep your truck from starting for approximately 10 minutes, yes you will have to wait and let it sit- if you try to start it will just turn over forever. On my truck the solution was to change my starting procedure, I now keep the truck in neutral-turn the key all the way for a few seconds and then push in the clutch- it starts every time. If you have an automatic I don’t know..

location of crank position sensor 04 colorado

Is it a 2.8 or 3.5 ?
It should be located in the exhaust manifold of your engine See number 10 on the diagram if this was helpful please vote thanks and god bless.





DTC P0135
Circuit Description
Heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) are used for fuel control and post catalyst monitoring. Each HO2S compares the oxygen content of the surrounding air with the oxygen content in the exhaust stream. The HO2S must reach operating temperature to provide an accurate voltage signal. A heating element inside the HO2S minimizes the time required for the sensor to reach operating temperature. Voltage is provided to the heater by the ignition 1 voltage circuit through a fuse. With the engine running, ground is provided to the heater by the HO2S heater low control circuit, through a low side driver within the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM commands the heater ON or OFF to maintain a specific HO2S operating temperature range. The PCM determines the temperature by measuring the current flow through the heater and calculating the resistance. Based on the resistance, the PCM can predict the sensor temperature. The HO2S 1 uses pulse width modulation (PWM) to control the heater operation. The HO2S 2 simply uses ON/OFF commands to control the heater operation. For diagnosis, the PCM monitors the heater current with the engine running. The PCM also calculates the heater resistance on a cold start. Both diagnostics will only run once per ignition cycle.

If the PCM detects that the heater current or the heater calculated resistance is not within an expected range, DTC P0135 sets for HO2S 1.
ho

The temperature you see on the dash board gauge is not necessarily the actual temperature of the coolant. The engine has a 'coolant sensor' which sends information to the electronic control unit (ECU /PCM) and there is a separate 'sender' which governs the gauge reading you see on the dash board. The sender usually has just one wire connected to the top of it. The sender is basically a heat dependent resistor and the temperature gauge simply reads this resistance. Sometimes corrosion in the electrical connector can inhibit the correct readings, so first disconnect the sender and inspect/clean the pin with a little wire wool. Now check the coolant. First put the interior heater on maximum heat. Run the engine up to working temperature and then squeeze all rubber hoses to help shift any trapped air. Top up the coolant if the level drops when air pockets have been shifted. The following sequence should occur when the engine is warming up. 1) When cold the engine has higher then normal revs. This is due to the coolant sensor (not sender) telling the ECU that the engine is cold and that the injectors should add more fuel to compensate for the cold condition of the engine. 2) Within about a minute the idle revs begin to drop as the coolant sensor detects the engine warming up 3) After about 5 minutes the thermostat should open. You can detect yourself this by feeling the top rubber radiator hose getting hot. 4) If you have an electric cooling fan on the radiator this should switch on about now. If you have a fan driven by a viscous clutch this will engage a little later. 5) after about 2 more minutes the face of the radiator should be becoming hot and the bottom rubber radiator return hose should become warm, then hot.
If you have an electric fan and it fails to come on then check the electric relay and fuse for it. Viscous clutch fans should always show some resistance when turned over by hand when the engine is off, if it spins freely then the clutch coupling is faulty and it will need to be replaced. A sign of faulty fan related over-heating is a car than runs at normal temperature when cruising on the freeway but overheats when standing at the lights; fan engagement is to compensate for the lack of air flow across the radiator core when the vehicle is stationary.
I hope the above helps

Evidently there are two of them. Your trouble code might tell us which one?