20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Rough idle, flashing CEL, low power would indicate a faulty ignition coil. A armchair diagnosis would be to replace the ignition coil. You'll have to swap the the contact stems (rubber conductors between the coils and the spark plugs) and the igniter module.

Simple task requiring a 10 mm socket and ratchet, a 10mm box end wrench, a T-15 torx bit with adapter and a new coil pack. Cost around $100 and takes a half-hour.

There is a fusible link in the wire from the starter to back of the alternator .The heavier gage wire . Measure voltage at the wire on back of alternator ,if there is B+ voltage the fusible link isn't blown . The two wires in the connector are from the PCM - engine computer . Do not touch those wires ,you can fry the PCM .Your charging system is computer controlled , if not familiar with this I suggest you take it to someone who is .

That is a sign of a dead battery or a bad connection between the battery to the starter. I would guess a dead battery. Check it will a volt meter or a plug in volt meter (plugs into your cigarette lighter) sold at auto part stores. You should have 12 volts at the battery. You can also bring the battery to Autozone, they will check it for free.

Coil pack may be bad

Do not know where you are but if in U.S. autozone will run scan for free to see what the code is , it will still be there even if the light goes out Save 20 On Online Ship To Home Orders Of 100 Or More

Nevr guess on parts. The switch is probly burnt from age. May b a module issue. Pullplug on computr then reconnect a fewtimes. Common for oldercars to revive

Fast flashing usually indicates that one of the exterior bulbs isn't functioning. You've checked front and rear signal lights, right? If the bulb is good, it could be corrosion in the socket, bad ground, broken wire, etc.

There could be many reasons - faulty fuel pump or faulty sensors which control ignition/fuel/ air flow. Don't change parts in the hope that you'll cure the problem. Give a mobile mechanic a call and get him to do a diagnostic check for you and identify the fault. These guys are usually very good and cheaper than a workshop

Check ground wire from engine to chassis and from chassis to battery. Sometimes it seems Ok but if you try to bend the cables it's only green powder that is left. /Soren Halling

I think you have a BCM - body control module problem ! The BCM controls the automatic door locks . Automatic Door Lock Operation This BCM controlled feature can be personalized to driver preference. Refer to Power Door Systems Connector End Views Personalization Description and Operation in Personalization. The BCM will automatically lock the vehicle doors if the following conditions exist: ?€¢ All vehicles doors are closed.

?€¢ The ignition is in the ON position.

?€¢ The vehicle is shifted out of PARK.

The BCM will then unlock the doors when the ignition is placed in the OFF position. Do the exterior lights flash as well as the horn sounding ? Body Control Module (BCM) The Content Theft Deterrent system is an internal function of the Body Control Module (BCM) which utilizes class 2 serial data and various switch input information to perform CTD functions. When the BCM detects an unauthorized entry, it activates the horns and exterior lamps. When the BCM detects an unauthorized entry, the BCM enters the alarm mode. The BCM activates the horns and exterior lamps for 2 minutes. This is followed by a 3 minute time-out with the horn no longer active. If no new intrusions are detected after the time-out, the horn is not active. The system must be disarmed or the intrusion condition removed after the time-out for the system to exit alarm mode.

Note the diagram.

Have someone put it on a scanner and read the code. They can also reset the engine light for you .

Just because the master is new does not mean it isn't faulty. If you are certain you have bleed all the air from the system, I suspect you got a bad master.

This is a very dangerous and serious concern. Do not store car in the garage. I would not drive this car. This car needs to be serviced by a qualified automotive service technician . One of the most likely causes are squirrels or other types of animals chew into the plastic fuel lines. I have been told it is the ethanol in the gas? Others clam that it is the soy in the wires. Rodents have been reported eating the wires and fuel lines of cars parked at airports?

Hi there I am a tech mechanic and I am going to start n say this to test the battery and alt. Don't just test it running that only a part of it OK start with the heart of the car (battery) take the leads off test them without them it should be no less then 12.3-12.4v n then cut n clean the term. Wires n if need be replace them NOTE (don't test the ohms most people will tell you to but no you can have Evey wire on the big wires broke but one and the ohms say they good but they are not bc the meter is only putting 1-1.3v. On that wire if you want to test them do a voltage of drop test on the same side pos.to pos n nev to nev don't just test the two test body, motor also test the starter the same bc most the time it is a bad conn or even a open circuit or a ground at the back of the car ) and use a computer safe test light and test the fuses and the power box and don't forget to both of the boxes need power and ground too some fuses only have power with key on and don't just touch them hold it on them few sec and if the light dim down or go out it bad or open circuit note to that you need to pull up wire diagram of the circuit and see what Evey thing is on it and make sure you are not missing fuses also check the boxes with ur meter for the 12v only touch them with po test lead and the other one to a good ground also to make sure ur getting good testing and test both power and fuse boxes with the meter 4 12vyou also should have a alt fuse or rely and the battery does also have them to its called a battery saver and if you have a bad rely or a light in side ur Gage pan. Out it will not work but for your rely you can test bench test them to but it is ify you should get whats called a jumper wire and put in tm that circuit to complete it and the car start and system work right now if you do like that it works it means that rely is out NOTE THIS THOU YOU HAVE TO JUMP IT RIGHT OR YOU can BLOW up the COMPUTER system LOOK IT UP ON YOUTUBE I BET you can DO IT STEP 4 STEP one more thing don't 4 got the hurs. Wires at the back of the alt n it could be the ignition lock and key and the ignition switch to my money on a ignition key and switch thou Louis don't know what he doing about the only thing that he got right is his name! Not to sound rude but I don't like when people talking about only no little bit about what they talking about but always talking! I say this I come from 5 gen. Of mechanics been to school I own my shop its mine not my dads! I have people who bring me.there cars from 100*150miles away from me I work on all city trucks and cars even the cops n fire trucks I have been voted for the number one mechanic in my area for 5 years and only been having my shop 6 year and I am only 26 I am a blessed man and may God be with you and bless you

It sounds to me that your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is going into "Reduced Power Mode"(sometimes called "limp-in mode"). If the engine is running that bad or if the PCM is going into reduced power mode, the Check Engine light should be SCREAMING at you! If it is not, you probably need to do a "bulb check" to make sure the check engine light works.There are several hundred things that can make the PCM do this. The ONLY way to find out which one is causing it at this time is to scan your computer network for fault codes and diagnose accordingly.Please also review these articles:Why Is My Engine Light On?What Else Could Be Wrong?

This may be related to the antitheft system The system is known for turning off the starter and/or injectors when it fails. Is there a light on the dash that says SECURITY? This is a common problem worth looking into. http://www.diy-gm-security.com/