20 Most Recent 2006 Chevrolet Avalanche - Page 9 Questions & Answers

UNDER HOOD FUSE BOX CHECK YOUR OWENERS MANUEL IT WILL TELL YOU WITCH ONE

Call a local mechanic to have a look ,maybe even the dealer ,never had a problem like this but it doesnt mean i couldnt sort it but from spain its difficult as i need my head under the bonnet/hood to get some idea ,but check the + battery terminal as it could a wire loose on here or its broke in the connection if nothing is happening as this supply would be for the power distribution box,right dinner on the table ..must go

Factory or after market? If it is after market, Tear it out and repair the wires. Good ones seem to last 5 to 7 years. If factory. Have the codes read. Could be the key chip, receiver, bcm, ecm, or a bad wire.

the first thing to do is to have the codes read. With this information to hand you will be able to determine if the shop knows what they are on about.

if its COP ignition, couild be bad coil

Open the cover to the door and pull the lock connector mostly rigged steel rods connected to the lock

50% of my repairs are just unplugging and plugging it back in, In essence just making a connection. Another 20% is because the wire breaks right behind the plug. (?) 10% is the computer is bad, 20% chasing wires. I fix clusters and computers. I don't recommend some one doing it though, unless you have the knowledge. There re a lot of parts in a cluster/computer that someone can do more harm than good to. Experience taught me this, and money. So if you don't have a ohm meter and a soldering station( not a soldering gun) I wouldn't recommend you do this on your own. Of course you really didn't say what you wanted to fix?

Check for spark to the spark plugs, while cranking the engine. If no spark, you could have a bad ignition module, or a bad crankshaft position sensor. The crank sensor sends a signal to the computer, to start the fuel pump and signals the ignition module to start firing the spark plugs. It also drives the tachometer through the computer (PCM) Powertrain control module. The ignition module can be removed and taken to a parts store to have it tested. The crank position sensor is not as easy to test. Easier to just replace it. Good Luck. But wait, I have seen people replace the fuel pump, checked the fuel pump harness for power, and all was good. However, if the fuel pump does not have a GROUND, it will still not operate. Might want to check that. Have fun.

Have you replaced that injector ?

In fuse block under hood, swap AC relay with fuel pump relay and check

i would have thought the work would take between 30 and 60 minutes max, if your refering to the temp/pressure unit ,so get the repair shop you choose to give you their hourly charge ,most repairers would give a precise quote for this sort of job so best to contact them direct

Suspect a worn left side spider gear or it's bearing in the differential. If a limited-slip differential, the left side clutch may be grabbing somewhat. In any case, the differential will need to be removed from the case to service any worn or defective components. Rear end service is not for inexperienced mechanics. Have you checked the fluid level in the differential? Hope this helps!

I had a chevy 2002 avalanche,2004 chevy tahoe both after 20,000 miles developed a mild lifter or slight bearing knock.When I confronted chevy with this problem they stated this was normal for the 5.3 liter v8.Being a mechanic myself didnt think this sounded right.My friend has a 2003 gmc yukon and motor sounded same way.I no longer own my chevy,But my friend still has yukon with 150,000 plus miles and yet it still knocks when you start it.this is just a problem with chevys and other gm products.

Did you put at least 3 gallons in?

check fuses

Reduced power is a mode the engine goes into when there is something wrong with the cooling or the firing. If the engine gets to hot it uses the pistons to air cool. This of course is not a for sure but where I would start.