There are several potential issues that could be causing your 2005 Chevy Monte Carlo to spit and sputter while driving. Here are a few possibilities:
Fuel delivery issues: If your engine is not receiving the correct amount of fuel or air, it can cause hesitation or rough idling. This could be due to a clogged fuel filter, a malfunctioning fuel pump, or a problem with the air intake system.
Ignition system issues: A faulty spark plug, ignition coil, or other component of the ignition system can cause misfires, which can make the engine hesitate or sputter.
Emissions system issues: Your vehicle's emissions system is designed to reduce harmful pollutants in the exhaust. A malfunctioning component of this system, such as the oxygen sensor, can cause the engine to run poorly.
Electrical issues: A damaged or worn electrical component, such as a sensor or relay, can cause the engine to run rough or stall.
Transmission issues: If your vehicle is experiencing transmission problems, such as slipping or shifting issues, it can cause the engine to hesitate or sputter.
To determine the exact cause of the problem, it's best to have your vehicle diagnosed by a certified mechanic. They can perform a diagnostic scan to check for any error codes or issues with the engine, transmission, or emissions system.
Here's a link to a great description with steps.
Hope this helps.
https://montecarloforum.com/forum/monte-carlo-repair-help-8/how-replace-heater-core-6th-gen-monte-33776/
Clean Throttle Body of carbon, it is not closing properly. Spray both sides with Throttle Body Cleaner, let it sit a minute, clean with a shop cloth. Spray again and agitate with a 1" paint brush. Spray again, keep cleaning until the cloth remains clean. Spray the Mass Airflow sensor, (no brush, just spray).
Could be caused by a lot of different thing's , rather then replacing a bunch of part's an not fixing the problem . Take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop that has the diagnosic tool's an knowledge to address this . Could be caused by any number of information sensor's to the PCM - engine computer . MAP , MAF , Crank sensor , coolant temp , IAT . CAM sensor , Viewing sensor data on a professional type scan tool would eliminate the needless replacement of part's .
047 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Scan Data for Ignition048 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Scan Data for Starting Problems
Strange behavior. I don't see a relay, but the components have logic circuitry. Not sure why--bad design. What I would do is test the dimmer. Unplug the connector and put an ohmmeter across the yellow and gray wires (terminals S and J). Ohms should go from infinity to zero as you rotate the dimmer knob.
The switch on "reverse" in transmission is not energizing the circuit. Make sure it is getting power and that it is closing when you put the car in reverse.
http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams . Enter your vehicle info . year , make , model an engine size . Then under system click on interior an driver amenity , then under subsystem click on audio ,then click on search an four links will pop up . Click on them one at a time till you find the one your looking for !
Make sure you have the right size belt. If it's old then replace it. Then make sure you run it correctly or it can slip off. If it still slips off then check all your pulleys for chips or wobble before you replace any pulleys. I hope this will be some simple help for you.
A vacuum leak somewhere, or a tranny modulator, or both. Mechanic can do a vacuum test, or you can buy the vacuum meter and do it yourself. transmissin modulator (if your car uses one, that is) is located on the outside of the tranny and looks like a frisbee-shaped disk about the size of the base of a water glass, made of aluminum, and has a vacuum hose attached. buy at a parts store. (I'm betting on a vacuum leak, though)
If your check engine light is on you should have it checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes ! An there is no SECURITY light lit on the instrument cluster ? In the underhood fuse / relay box is the CRANK RLY , this relay energizes the starter ! If you pull the relay out of it's socket you'll see four terminals or pin's what ever you like . You'll also see four numbers 85-86, 30-87 . 30 an 87 are the starter side circuit . 30 should have battery voltage if tested with voltmeter or a test light , 87 goes to the S terminal at the starter solenoid . 85 an 86 are the control side circuit , one should have battery voltage an the other is control from the PCM/ECM .If you can use a volt ohm meter you can see what is missing to further you diagnosis , voltage , control ! You mite want to do a voltage drop test of the starter circuit - battery cables ! Check fuse PCM/ABS 10amp left I/P fuse box an PCM (crank) fuse 10amp left I/P fuse box .If you haven't done this type of thing before you may want to take to a ASE certified repair shop ! Here I will post a video on relays ! VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis