20 Most Recent 1997 Chevrolet Blazer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Seems like your good to go...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_S-10_Blazer#Second_generation

remove the drive shaft ( tail shaft) lever out the old seal. put sealer around new seal and fit back in extension housing. Use something that is the same size as the outer edge of the seal and tap it in flush with the edge of the transmission housing. Expect some oil to drain out when the tail shaft and seal is removed

Have you tried unlocking them from the driver side control?

Your brake rotor on that side could be warped. Brake rotors warp from excessive heat when the brake is applied at higher speeds. Try having the rotors turned. About $30

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TO START HAVE A SCAN DONE TO PULL CODES FOR TRANS. IF NO CODES HIGH CLUTCHES ARE MOST LIKELY BURNED

it sounds like you need a transmission rebuild

check the window lock switch on the drivers door

is your security key lamp lit on dash.

What are they What has been tested so far & how

Check to find if there is vacuum to the cable pull that actuates the front end lock when engine is running and in 4wd. If not, there's no vacuum to the shifter switch or this switch is bad.

Front end lock is vacuum actuated and if there is no vacuum from the shifter switch, it will not lock the front end. Make sure there is vacuum going down to the switch/valve on the shifter with it in 4wd and engine running, then find if there is vacuum coming out the other side of the switch on the tranny shift valve. On the right fender you will find the cable pull that the vacuum actuates to pull cable and put the front end in gear. Have someone watch while you shift into 4wd to see if the cable is pulled. Check there to see if there is vacuum coming to it when in gear. If there is no vacuum there then the shifter vacuum switch is bad or the line is not connected.

check for a damaged wire for the low beam. Also wouldn't hurt to check the ground wire as the high beam will try and ground through the low beam but not visa verse

Likely the encoder motor on the transfer case is stuck. there's a bushing that gets worn out and causes this. You may have some luck by trying to disengage 4wd while backing up and engaging 2Hi. Otherwise you are looking to replace the encoder motor. this involves removing the front driveshaft and a few bolts and an electrical connection. You can buy a new one, or you can pick one up at a salvage yard or Ebay fairly cheaply. The good news is that it's an easy fix that doesn't require any loss of fluid or even the need for a jack or hoist if you can wiggle under the truck. At worst, a pair of car ramps or a set of jack stands and a jack on the drivers side will give you plenty of access...just make sure to chock those wheels and/or set the emergency brake if it works. Hate to have it come rolling down on you while you are under there!

check for the largest fuse in your fuse box. It could be blown.

Lugnut sizes...3/4", 13/16", 19mm, 21mm, these are the most common. A 4-way lugwrench usually comes with 2 sizes you won't need (7/8", 18mm, 17mm, 11/16" ...

There are two cheap potential fixes to look at first. Since cruise is operated by electrical switches, it's possible the contacts have worn out or become corroded. Taking those apart for inspection and cleaning eliminates that possibility. You should also check the fuses related to the system, and if you have a multimeter, check that the wiring from the fuse box to the module is intact. (Set it to measure resistance: If there's a reading, the line is good; if there's no reading, the wire may be broken.)

If your lights went out and stayed out with a blown fuse, I would say you have a short in your system. But the way you describe your problem , I would look for a bad plug, or a connection that may have been made in the past that is loose. This could be anywhere in truck from engine compartment, to under dash. Possibly there was an accessary that was hooked up that may have caused this problem. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Code Reader or Professional Scan Tool to retrieve codes & other data

Brakes have to come apart once a year, at least, to inspect,remove rust & lube-do that,then get your abs system codes & diagnose them May be time to replace the rubber flex hoses & caliper may be rusted inside, if the fluid is not changed every 2 years, since it was new,could also ruin the expensive abs unit with moisture, for the same reason