20 Most Recent 1998 Oldsmobile Silhouette - Page 9 Questions & Answers

when the motor is running put your hand on the tail pipe and see if any thing is coming out of the pipe, take the oil dip stick out and see if the oil looks foamy, possibly you head gasket is gone

You say it won't crank...(turn over...?) The motor will still turn over even if the fuel pump is bad...(located in the top of the gas tank...professional repair only:) It could be dirty battery terminals (corrodid) the lights can work, but not enough juice to engage the starter...if it won't crank and cannot be jump started with another battery the starter is probably locked...you can try tapping on the starter with a hammer...(sometimes will temporarily work and confirm starter is bad. Hope this helps:)

Hello dcb. The thermostat is located in the hose coming from the radiator and is located on the top of the engine on the right side. If you remove the air breather box first it will give you some room to work but the back bolt on the thermostat is really difficult to get out due to lack of room to move the wrench. Make sure the coolant is not hot before you begin. MAKE A NOTE OF THE ARROW ON THE THERMOSTAT INDICATING THE DIRECTION OF FLOW SO YOU CAN MOUNT THE NEW ONE IN THE SAME DIRECTION. Make sure you have the necessary wrenches to remove each bolt, and have the new thermostat and gasket ready to install.

All you do is lower the level of coolant within the radiator by opening the lower stop **** [unless the level is already down], then remove the two bolts and use a putty knife blade to loosen the gasket which is usually somewhat "welded" to the thermostat. Once you have the old thermostat out, scrape off any remaining gasket material and then install the new gasket and thermostat paying attention to make sure the new thermostat direction arrow is pointing in the same direction as the old one did.



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get a manual and read up on it, head gasket is involved work, should take a couple days, the head will have to go to a machine shop, you will need a gasket kit, and new hardware, also special tools etc, do not attempt if yhou are not sure

Not easy of a job, if cylinder heads are good and just need to be machine, your looking any where between $850.00 and 1200.00, hope this was very helpful.

Replace the oil pump and oil sending unit.

You need to take it to an autoparts store or a garage and have it scanned for the codes. this will tell you where to start. get the code number and description of the code. let me know
Randy

will try to help. have you checked all your fuses? look under the dash, or side panel on driverside dash panel for the fuse box. also, you can check the fuse box under the hood for a blown fuse,will be a black box[under hood] usually on driverside fenderwell. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com!!

Jack the olds up as high a possible then remove the exaust pipe from the manifold it takes a 13mm socket,also remove it at the mid section and put it out of the way,then you have a clear shot at the plugs from under the car ,i found out this was the best way ,trying to get them from the top by taking off the coil pack off was just to much trouble, the bracket that holds the coil pack ,the bolts are not accessable from the top, also when you get ready to pull the plugs there are notchs in the heat shield, the plugs are right below those.

If you mean the O2 sensor, you have at least two and they are located in the exhaust system before and after the catalytic converter. If you are sure one or both is bad you can buy new ones at a parts store, then stop by a muffler shop and pay them 20 bucks or so to take yours out and put the new ones in. Bear in mind that if this does not cure your SES light problem, all they did was put in your parts so it is not their fault. Having the thing up on a lift and a good selection of tools makes it a lot easier and faster than trying to do this yourself on your back under the car, in the cold wet dark, with no leverage. Do not try this at a chain muffler shop.

Most likely a catalytic converter or O2 sensor is bad.

this may help get you started

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/maintenance/4213448

possibly air in your block/ low coolant level. How much variance is there in readings and has it been overheating?

Should be undeer car back by the fuel tank, has many hoses going to it and maybe a black plastic cover over it that has a couple of screws in it and looks like a box with a filter in it.....

3.4 liter?

Unfortunately this will not be an easy task. It is located under the throttle body where the upper hose goes into the lower intake. You'll need to be a little creative with a 13mm socket, swivel, extension and a 13mm wrench. Sometime it will help to remove the throttle body to at least see the to bolts a little better. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

What do you mean by pressure, is the radiator cap blowing? Is there a sweet smell coming from the motor? if so you're leaking coolant. First impression sounds like a head gasket... if you're DEFINITELY not leaking fluid.

r134,is what u need

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
3. Inspect the battery state of charge.
4. Install a scan tool.
5. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
6. With the scan tool, establish communications with the ABS/TCS system. Select Special Functions from the ABS/TCS menu. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
7. Bleed the base brake system.
8. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.
9. If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure:
10. If a DTC is detected, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List and diagnose the appropriate DTC.
11. If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again.
12. When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal in order to inspect for firmness.
13. Remove the scan tool.
14. Install the tire and wheel assemblies.
15. Inspect the brake fluid level.
16. Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.

Bleeding ABS Automated Bleed Procedure NOTE: In most circumstances a base brake bleed is all that is required for most component replacements (such as wheel cylinders, calipers, brake tubes, and master cylinder) except for brake pressure modulator valve (BPMV) replacement.
The following automated antilock brake system (ABS) bleed procedure is required when one of the following occur:

• Manual bleeding at the wheel cylinders does not achieve the desired pedal height or feel.
• Replacement of the BPMV
• Extreme loss of brake fluid has occurred.
• Air ingestion is suspected.

NOTE: If none of the above conditions apply, use standard bleed procedures.
The auto bleed procedure is used on BOSH 5.3 equipped vehicles. This procedure uses a scan tool to cycle the system solenoid valves and run the pump in order to purge the air from the secondary circuits. These secondary circuits are normally closed off, and are only opened during system initialization at vehicle start up and during ABS operation. The automated bleed procedure opens these secondary circuits and allows any air trapped inside the BPMV to flow out toward the wheel cylinders or calipers where it can be purged out of the system.
Preliminary Inspection

1. Inspect the battery for a full charge.
2. Repair the battery and charging system as necessary.
3. Connect a scan tool to the data link connector (DLC) and select the current and history DTCs.
4. Repair any DTCs prior to performing the ABS bleed procedure.
5. Inspect for visual damage and leaks and repair as needed.

Preliminary Setup

1. Before servicing the vehicle refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Raise and support the vehicle.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
4. Remove all 4 tires (if necessary)
5. Connect the pressure bleeding tool.
6. Turn the ignition switch to RUN position with the engine off.
7. Connect a scan tool and establish communications with the ABS system.
8. Pressurize the bleeding tool to 30-35 psi (206-241 kPa).

Automated Bleed Procedure
NOTE: The Auto Bleed Procedure may be terminated at any time during the process by pressing the EXIT button. No further Scan Tool prompts pertaining to the Auto Bleed procedure will be given.
CAUTION
After exiting the bleed procedure, relieve bleed pressure and disconnect bleed equipment per manufacturers instructions. Failure to properly relieve pressure may result in spilled brake fluid causing damage to components and painted surfaces.

1. With the pressure bleeding tool set to 30-35 psi (206-241 kPa) and all bleeder screws in closed position, select Automated Bleed Procedure on the scan tool and follow the instructions.
2. The first part of the automated bleed procedure will cycle the pump and front release valves for one minute.
3. After the cycling has stopped the scan tool will enter a "cool down" mode and display a 3 minute timer. NOTE: The auto bleed will not continue until this timer expired, and cannot be overridden.
   
4. During the next step, the scan tool will request the technician to open one of the bleeder screws. The scan tool will then cycle the respective release valve and pump motor for 1 minute.
5. The scan tool will repeat step 3 for the remaining bleeder screws.
6. With the bleeder tool still attached to the vehicle and maintaining 30-35 psi (206-241 kPa), the scan tool will instruct the technician to independently open each bleeder screw for approximately 20 seconds. This should allow any remaining air to be purged from the brake lines.
7. When the automated bleed procedure is completed the scan tool will display the appropriate message.
8. Install all 4 tires, if necessary.
9. Remove the pressure from the pressure bleeding tool
10. Disconnect the tool from the vehicle.
11. Depress the brake pedal to gauge pedal height and feel.
12. Repeat the procedure until the pedal is acceptable.
13. Remove the scan tool from the DLC connector.
14. Safely lower the vehicle.
15. Inspect the brake fluid level in master cylinder.
16. Road test the vehicle while ensuring the brake pedal remains high and firm.
17. If the vehicle is equipped with a traction control system (TCS), the scan tool will cycle both the ABS and TCS solenoids valves. This bleed procedure is the same as above.