20 Most Recent 1998 Oldsmobile Silhouette - Page 7 Questions & Answers

It's not alot of fun. Pictures that you'll find in a repair manul will be alot of help as a picture is worth a thousand words. The covers over top of the raditor need to be removed and the coolant drained. Thjeir will be a fan bolted to the back and it'll need to be disconnected and unbolted and removed. With it out of the way you will be able to see the hoses theat hold the coolant they need to be removed fromt he engine or the raditor as it appears mose easy. you can take them off the other end after you get the raditotr out as they will be easier to get to after out. if you haVE NEW HOSES TOO YOU MIGHT LIKE. to cut them and work on removing them afer it's out. The smaller lines are transmission cooler lines and engine cooler lines ( oil) *** yu remove these they have fluild in them and ned to be plugged or catch pan the drippings as to not make too big a mess. Used bolts of the correct sizes help make the plugs. the big hoses just drain them in a pan. Don't cut any hoses till you have the new ones and be sure thier the right ones as the stroe will say thier the right ones but maybe not for your car so be careful. Sometimes you have to show the old part to get the right one. This is true with the raditor too.

check compnine.com

DTC P0341 will set if Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor pulses are not in proper ratio to 24X and 3X Crankshaft Position (CKP) pulses.

Conditions required to set this DTC are:

> Engine running and PCM is receiving valid 3X reference pulses
> CMP reference pulse signal is not detected on every engine cycle
> Condition is present for at least 30 seconds

The first thing that should be done is visual inspection of the wiring harnesses to the sensors and the secondary ignition cables and coil packs. Please note that misrouted spark plug cables an/or cracked and arcing ignition coils can cause interference with the CMP and CKP circuits. Inspect to be certain that the ignition cables are correctly routed and fastened in their original holders (or equivalent). Also check for deteriorated wire coverings (wire loom) leading to the CMP, 3X , and 24X sensors. If there are problems found, repair as necessary and retest vehicle.
If there are no problems as listed above, the next step is to determine if this is a "Current" (hard-fault) or an "history" (intermittent fault).

If your scanner has the capability of outputting computer data, check the codes under "current codes" or "failed this ignition". If the code is there, then the problem is occurring "RIGHT NOW"! This can make the problem much easier to find. (We'll get to that later) If the code is only in "continuous memory" Then the problem is intermittent. For intermittent faults, it would be best to return to the top of this post and re-check everything - also pull and tug on wires and harnesses to see if you can get the code to set.

If your scanner does not have this capability (outputs generic OBD codes only) Then the easiest way to determine if it is a hard fault is to clear the codes, then start the engine and run it for about 2 minutes and check codes again. If the code set after 2 minutes, then it can be considered a hard fault. Let me know if the problem is a hard fault and we'll walk through checking the circuits. Again, for intermittent faults, try wiggle-testing and checking components over - see if you can get the code to set. Check codes between everything you pull on or wiggle so you can determine which part of the system has the problem. (If you wiggle and pull EVERYTHING before rechecking codes and the code sets, you have not eliminated ANYTHING.)

Please also refer to the picture to help with understanding the components involved.

Your problem is the door thinks that it is already locked and closed. You need have the sliding door unlocked, have someone pull the handle as if they were going to open the door and then use a tool to "Open" the latch that normally would hold the door closed.

Either the master cylinder or the brake booster. You could have a broken rusted out brake line somewhere else. A reputable mechanic should be able to diagnose it fairly quickly.
Thank you,
Lee

Look under the panel on the driver's side, it should be between the brake and gas pedal.

Check your fuses first before inspecting to see if ther is a short or broken wire in the wiring harness.

I think you have a latch issue or a latch release issue, pull the door panel and try and release the door latch, pull the latch and try to see what if anything is wrong with it, also make sure the linkage going to the latch from the release handle is hooked up or not otherwise damaged.

The oil pressure switch is just above the starter.

Well, I don't know about the "cert.GM tech", but the WIRING DIAGRAMS for your vehicle say that there are 4 ground circuits for your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) They are pins 16, 56, 57, and 60 in connector 1 at the PCM. They all have the same grounding point: G110 which is located just to the left of the starter on the transmission bell housing. Your negative battery cable grounds there also. Incidently, the grounds for the fuel pump relay and the ignition control module also originate from this point. (You will find several wires bolted to the transmission here.) Actually, it will be a special bolt in the transmission bell housing bolt with a stud made onto it and a 15mm nut will be holding all the wire terminals to the bolt.

With all that said, if I had a PCM that would not communicate with a code reader, the VERY FIRST thing I would check would be the Cigarette Lighter fuse. It is located in the fuse block in the right end of the dash. It is marked "CIGAR/DLC" and is a 15 Amp fuse. If this fuse is blown, unplug whatever you have plugged into the cigarette lighter before replacing it. It is very common for ths fuse to be blown as a result of defective phone chargers and laptop computer power supplies, etc.

remote oil filter housing?

Yes I know the reason, the Antilock brake system (ABS) hydraulic control unit is defective, if has a sticking valve and must be repalced.

WEll, solve the pedal to the floor and the air noise will be okay.

Check all 4 wheels brakes, and all lines for leaks, if okay replace master cylinder, be sure to pre bleed it.

First take EGR Valve off and clean it with a wire brush and a non-chlronated brake cleaner.If it still runs bad check your fuel pressure it should be 41-47 psi with key on engine off if not within specs replace fuel pump.

Go to any auto parts store and get a manual for your car. This type of job is not for a amateur by the way, you are probably better off taking to a garage

The short answer is yes, something could have bent when that gate was closed with the latch already closed. Look at the latch and make sure it wasn't jammed before you do a full replacement. If the latch is closed use a screw driver to open the latch while using the key to open the gate. Once you get the latch open try closing and locking the gate.