20 Most Recent 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hi,input bearing on gearbox,50.00 from mitsy.A doddle to repair

Is this an automatic trans?Does this mean that it just revs in 1st or drive unti it goes into 2nd?Shifts are determined by having sufficient trans fluid in.That the internal valve body is functioning,that external shift solenoids are working,and that the speed sensor on the trans as well as the TPS on the throttle body are working correctly.apart from this they do wear out internal parts and then do these types of things.
Check the transmission fluid level while idling in park with the handbrake on.also if the fluid smells burnt and/or looks dark,it is time for a rebuild.Could you supply some more info,what was the trans like on last drive prior to fault,did it just start up and do this or did it begin while driving?

when you say 'will not turn in' is this turn on?What happens when the key is turned to start?Does the engine crank over but no start?Or does it sound like it wants to start,or does it backfire and pop as it turns over,or is there nothing at all.Usually the simplest fault is that the plug wires are on in an incorrect firing order. This is 1-3-4-2.It may be difficult to establish number 1 on the distributor(assuming this is a model with one).But I am unsure if your friend removed them completely from it.So lets us start fresh.
1.No 1 cylinder is closest to the end where all the belts are running.They run in series along the sparkplugs 1-2-3-4.
2.Fit all the plug leads so that they fit well between the plugs and the distributor cap.Ensure that the order that they run is in the direction that the rotor spins inside the distributor cap.This model fits to the end of the camshaft so should be anticlockwise.
3.distributor cap may be marked with 1.If so then just fit them in order anticlockwise;1-3-4-2.at this end
4.start vehicle.
5.if there is no 1 mark on cap,easy to just set as above,crank engine,if no start, backfiring or it runs roughly,just stop,move them all around the cap by one but staying in the firing order of 1342.you will only have to repeat this shifting leads 3 times max if you were really unlucky with getting the order out.As soon as you have got them right it will start fine.
You may still need to find out why they were oiled covered and fix this.Externally it may just be the valve cover gasket.Plugs oiled on the electrodes inside can be worn engine or other factors we wont cover here unless needed.
I hope this helps you start your car,or get back to me with your findings.

Thanks for choosing FIxYa and welcome to the site. As you may know, a vehicle needs air, fuel, and fire to start properly. In your case, it may not even be a fuel issue but you would want to check it out to make sure. You would need to check the fuel pressure on your vehicle and all fuses and relays that are connected with the fuel system, fuel pump fuse, relay, and reset if equipped. You could have electrical problems with the vehicle or it may be the transmission. None the less, it would need to be hooked up to a computer to know for sure. You may have a bad idle control sensor or map sensor that is causing your problems. Since the problem you now have is associated with the starting issue, I wouldn't think it is the transmission. I believe it is an electrical issue or sensor. It is hard to tell though without running a diagnostics test on it though to know for sure. Hope this helps some. Best regards. Thanks for using FIxYa.

Yes there IS a RELAY and FUSE that are BEFORE the Pump in the Fuel Pump Curcit

Most likely there is a short in the wiring for your brake lights. Modern automotive electrical systems are very complex, if you're not experienced with automotive or electrical repair it may be best to take the car to a reputable repair shop. Parts stores can not diagnose or repair this type of problem.

Haynes manual is your friend..

You can find it online or at your local auto parts store.

If you replaced the Battery and Alternator yourself,
or you had a repair shop do it

Next--if you have to ask, is a trip to the repair shop,
to have that problem diagnosed and resolved

the valve cover gasket and tube seals should come in a set. if they do not they still have to both be changed as the cover has to be removed to change the tube seals.

COULD BE A NUMBER OF THINGS FROM LOW FREON LEVELS TO OBSTRUCTED EXPANSION BLOCKS,BAD PRESSURE SWITCHES ,BAD RELAY'S, ETC.ETC.ETC

Even if the battery is fully charged, a dirty or loose connection could cause an interruption in the current flow to the starter. Make sure all connections are free of corrosion and properly tightened.

If, after doing this it still clicks, then your problem may well be a bad solenoid on the starter.

If this turns out to be the case, you can purchase a warrantied rebuilt (or new, if you prefer) starter at your local auto parts store.

Be sure to remember, if you change the starter, to disconnect the battery until the installation is complete, so as to not cause a short if a tool inadvertently touches bare metal while installing.

Good luck!

When the light is on it is in 'open' loop. When the light is off it is in the more efficient and optimized 'closed' loop.

Try to scan the computer for codes to determine what intermittnent circuit problem exists.

It may be just a sensor going bad and going out of specifications.

Good luck on this repair.

Is the sensor threaded or held in with a bolt.

Attach a digital volt ohms meter to the battery with the engine running. You should see slightly more than 14 volts with the engine running and all loads off. Probably better though to have it professionally checked at a reputable garage, as we can duplcate loads, and what not. I do this free of charge at my shop, however, there may be a minimal charge. I would suggest though, to have this done at a garage, where they are in the business of fixing cars, and not at a parts store, where they are in the business of selling parts.

You may find what you are looking for handwritten in either the service book or handbook for the car along with VIN & registration information. Some garages are a bit sloppy and just scribble in randomly somewhere in the book! Failing that your main dealer should be able to supply what you need on proof of ownership by looking up there records - be aware they may charge for this service.

Hello! No, timing is electronically controlled...When you replaced the timing belt I believe it isn't correctly reassembled...Since I do not know if your vehicle is equipped with a 1.5L or 1.8...I'll give you both timing belt diagrams..Guru...Saailer


1.5L



1.8L

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

I have changed the crankshaft position sensor a few times and I tell you it is no easy task. It requires almost damn near pulling the motor out of the car. The sensor is located under the timing belt behind the underdrive pulley. This will require you to pull everything off the car on that side of the motor including the motor mount so have a jack with a piece of wood ready to support the motor.(First take off your battery cables) Once you remove all components the remove the timing cover, loosen the timing tension pully (be careful of the spring) try not to remove the timing belt or be ready to re-time it. you will see the crankshaft sensor down at the bottom behind the underdrive pulley. Its just two 10mm bolts that are not very easy to remove (be prepared to drop one and retrieve it). Unscrew the bolts and re-assemble everything (the hardest thing for me was tightining the timing pulley) This is the easiest way to do it short of pulling the motor completely out and removing the underdrive pulley which would require re-timing and special tools. I hope this helps.