1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If you have the 4-Cylinder Non-Turbo, or 420a engine, here is the overhaul manual for it, including the complete timing instructions: http://www.mediafire.com/?7j2zosdmnnl

If you have the 4-Cylinder Turbo, or 4G63 engine, here is the manual for it, including timing instructions: http://www.mediafire.com/?zhnttihoqye I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

if the old alternator fails in a big way it would of blown the fuse, regulator is built into the alternator. this fuse can also affect the ecu. 120 amp fuse for the alternator and a 60 amp, with a meter on the live side of the alternator, connect a bulb to the feed and then the other end connected to the shell on a good earth. this will show you if the fuse is blown or not as the feed should go to the battery and as long as the battery has power it will light the bulb. or just use a meter and put on volts and do the same thing should show volts. if engine runs but you have problem check the earthing wire to the shell from the battery as this area can become a problem over time and will need cleaning back to metal and the connections will need cleaning. follow the earth wire from the battery to the shell and you will see the earthing cluster on the shell.

"...bleed out the air pressure" makes no sense, so I assume it refers to something else. Removing an engine requires * carefully and slowly disconnecting the fuel line to bleed out FUEL pressure, which I suspect may be what you read in the manual. * drain the radiator. This should not have any residual pressure. * remove the A/C compressor, without disconnecting the A/C hoses. If this is not possible, then the A/C system pressure has to be discharged by an A/C shop to recover the refrigerant. It's not environmentally sound to release refrigerant.to the air. Your car is 20+ years old, and its likely that the A/C system has leaked out all the refrigerant.

Here is the factory electrical manual. It should have everything you need. (Mitsubishi has the best electrical manual i have ever seen) 97 99Electrical pdf

COULD BE SHIFT SOLENOIDS

very possible as the coolant temp sensor reports the engine temperature to the ECM so that the correct air/fuel mixture can be delivered it it is faulty the ECM will not know if the engine is subzero temp or overheating so reports from the ambient temp and baro sensor will cause a lock up situation in the program of the ECM now that you have run the car for a few miles , have the fault codes read again

check electrical connections

Yes it sounds like your transmission is starting to give.. or your low on fluid

What do you mean , no fire to coils ? The coils are not throwing any spark ? or no Battery + power to the coils ? If it is the latter ,check the ASD relay in fuse/relay box.

Check for pulse about two inches back on the wires behind the plug. Wires tend to break at the plug. No pulse, you have to trace to the ECM, check there. If it is there run new wires to the injector. Not the, replace the ECM. A driver inside it has failed.

Is this the only problem? How did you check the fuses?

run the fault codes and look for problem accelerator position sensor or throttle motor check for MAF/VAF sensors.

Have you removed the woodruff key?

Loose tie rod

Did you check the air filter, hose and throttle body for any foreign material such as a mouse nest. If you replaced fuel filter and added clean fuel its possible you created a small vapour lock check and see if you have a valve similar to to a tire valve on the fuel rail, with motor off and cold pressure up line and do not turn on vehicle release pressure in line. Make sure fuel cap is on tight .

Did you check the oil, did you change the oil and filter. Your pcv valve could be stuck and the hose connected to it could be plugged. Valve should raffle if shakened.

Did you check the radiator for its condition and that the overflow container its at its full mark.

Check and see if plugs are connected in the right timing order and are connected tightly.

Add some fuel conditioner and injector cleaner.

I have the same promble on my jeep I change my ekg it run good now

Your engine is staying cool too long/closed loop temp not reached

probably need a new thermostat.

No, a new exhaust gasket (aluminium + asbestos) squashes and seals. All the studs have to be present, and the exhaust manifold must not be warped.

Check the brake light switch it could be stuck in the open position causing light to come on

The fuel will need to be drained from your tank. will need to go to dealer or someone with diagnostic computer that can bypass and activate the fuel pump in your car to pump it out.