2000 GMC Yukon XL - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the clutch plate and box needs to be checked. I propose to go for a servicing of the gear box

Check the engine idle speed, it must be going very slow when this happens.

Sounds like a bad blend door actuator. That's the motor that diverts air between the heater core and AC

Well first the GM oil pressure sending units are notorious for false readings, so what you must do is remove the oil pressure sending unit and plug in a test mechanical gage to verify the engine has acceptable oil pressure, after you are certain the pressure is ok replace the sending unit, it requires a special socket to remove it, the socket is about $5.00 USD. There is a deep socket and a shallow, so check the sending unit for the correct socket fit.

http://www.downloadcarmanuals.com/2000-gmc-yukon-owners-manual-download

The two symptoms are probably connected... There are a number of possible conditions that could cause both symptoms and the possibility two unrelated faults have coincidentally caused them should not be ignored. The possibilities should be carefully checked by a competent person to ensure the cure is no more expensive than it needs to be. It is possible the cause is a defective cylinder head gasket leaking more combustion gas into the cooling system than the degassing system can cope with or the degassing system itself is defective. It is also possible it is a simple leak and a low coolant level.

You can try pushing the override button located right under headlight dial.

Could be fan clutch worn out have it checked

the anti theft control is controlled by the pas module. pas stands for passive antitheft system

need to change the resistor board that controls the fan

the clutch removal is easy, remove the nut on the front and remove the pressure plate, then remove the retaining clip around the bearing support and pull off the clutch, it is hard to find a new cllutch, most companies just want to sell you a new compressor. if you need a new one, check http://www.rockauto.com/ first, then search amazon and ebay for the part number at rock auto, sometimes you can find one less expensive than rock auto but overall rock has the best deals I can get you 5% off if you decide to get one there, just ask

Well, looking at the schematic, there is the IGN A (Fuse 6) in the under-hood fuse block feeding power to both the ignition switch and to the NO contact of the starter relay. Turning the ignition switch to the START position sends this voltage thru the CRANK (Fuse 8) in the instrument panel fuse block and thru the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch, thru the starter relay coil to ground. This should activate the Starter relay and pass voltage to the starter solenoid to ground, activating it. One the starter solenoid activates, batter power is sent to the starter motor, activating it. If, as you say, the fuses are good, the starter relay was replaced and is good, and the Park/Neutral position switch was replaced and is good, then then only items left are the ignition switch itself, the starter solenoid/motor, or the wiring of the circuit.

well to me sounds like you ne to replace the body control module

Sounds like your window has slipped out of the track that it rides on when rolling it up and down. You will need to take the door panel off and inspect the rail and the cables it rests on. Sometimes a loose bolt can make it jump off the track.

Sounds like the reverse switch on transmission linkage is stuck or bad.

Backfire can be caused by lean fuel condition. No fuel can be fuse, relay, filter or pump. Check for power at pump and if none, trace backwards. If pump runs, check fuel pressure at fuel rail.

I guess you mean engine dies? You need to determine if the issue is fuel or spark. If spark, it will die flat, fuel often will sputter as it dies. If you can hook up fuel pressure gauge so that you can see it while driving this might help. If you think it is spark issue, check coil and ignition module, crank/cam sensor. Is this random or is there some pattern, such as amount of time driven?

55 to 62 psi

A sensor within the car's computer system has detected a possibly major problem. The system then puts the engine into "limp mode" so that it can be driven to a repair station. Driving in this condition will only increase the damage. Highly recommend you take to reputable mechanic immediately for computer diagnostic.

Not too difficult if you have enough access for on vehicle. If not you will have to remove to a bench. Go online with the make/ model of the pump and click on "illustrations" at the top of the search page and see if there's an exploded view. If not your model it will show you a generic clutch layout to give you an idea. Another source for a view is the website of an aircon specialist. A small socket set, a couple of screwdrivers etc should get the job done. Take note of how any electrical connections go but even those are in plug/socket form. Biggest game will be getting the serpentine drive belt off and then on again. You may need to check a manual for that but a knowledgeable neighbour may know the tricks.