20 Most Recent 2000 GMC Yukon XL - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Hi,The resistor block/control is for fan speed only.Hope that helps!

Hi,That sounds like your resistor block/controller is already shorted to hi fan speed.Replace the resistor controller, located behind the glove box compartment, on the heater & A/C blower box.You can't miss it, it has 3 wirings and a connector.Hope that helps!

hi.

Check compression. If the leak is internal, then the most common cause is the head gasket. Water (or coolant) leaks internally through the worn head gasket reaching the cylinders where it gets vaporized. Symptoms are coolant fluid level going down, bad performance, loss of compression, overheating, white smoke because of vaporized coolant from exhaust, traces of fuel in coolant reservoir etc.

If head gasket is Ok and there is no overheating, then the leak is external. Check pump, radiator and coolant lines.

Regards.

Ginko.

Sound like a misfire problem, may be as simple as cleaning the water or gunk out of the gas tank which is what I always do 1st because it's easy and inexpensive. If your fuel is contaminated with gunk, grime, water and/or bottom junk like rust this will cause stalling, sputter, lost power in acceleration, etc. Scanned the PCM to know if some fault code is stored there.

Also, to get an accurate assessment of the fuel pressure, you will have to install a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure should be 60-66 psi at the fuel rail. If the pressure is too low, the engine will not start and fuel pump replacement will be necessary. It sounds to me as if you have a bad fuel pump.

Additionally, I sugggest read this TSB info: Light Throttle Hesitation or Misfire - keywords 4.3 5.0 5.7 accelerate backfire buck chuggle code decelerate detonation DTC hard harsh hot injector L30 L31 L35 launch miss noise surge #PIP3470 - (Jun 16, 2005)

Light Throttle Hesitation or Misfire
1996-2000 Chevrolet Astro, Blazer, C Pickup, Express, S10, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
1996-2000 GMC C Pickup, Jimmy, Safari, Savana, Sierra, Sonoma
1996-1999 GMC Suburban
1996-1999 GMC Yukon

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern: The customer concern may be a miss, buck, or fishbite type feeling on a deceleration.

* This condition can usually be duplicated just after a smooth gradual acceleration, cresting a hill, or just after the TCC engages.
* This condition will not occur on a cold engine, it becomes more evident at normal operating temperature.
* A rough idle or poor idle quality may also be noticed.
* Scan data may look normal with only random misfires showing up in misfire data.
* This condition will vary in intensity from just a light bump to a severe buck. The bump or buck caused by this condition can induce a driveline clunk or ringing of the propshaft. The driveline clunk or ringing may be misinterpreted as a transmission or driveline concern.
* This condition is similar to, but far more harsh than the miss/buck/surge created when the CMP offset is set incorrectly.

Recommendation/Instructions:
* Question the customer and verify if there has been any previous repairs made to the vehicle that may have allowed the improper installation of the injectors.
* Use the Tech 2 and verify the CMP ****** is set correctly. Use the current SI procedures for Camshaft ****** Offset Adjustment and adjust as needed.
* If the SI procedures have been completed for the vehicle symptom duplicated, and the diagnostics are inconclusive, it is possible that the SCPI / CPI injector nozzle(s) are not in the proper cylinder location. There is no apparent correlation between the number of improper nozzle locations and the severity of condition.
* If improper injector installation is suspected, remove the Upper Intake Manifold and inspect the injector positions. The engine cylinder numbers are molded into the Injector Fuel Metering Block. Verify the individual cylinder injector poppet positions correspond with the engine cylinder numbers marked on the Fuel Metering Block. Evaluate the customer concern after the injectors are installed into the proper cylinders.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.


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When the AC runs the byproduct is water condensed from the air. That water is supposed to drain outside thru a hole in the firewall. In your case that hole is clogged so the water accumulates in the evaporator's pan and it eventually overflows and gets on the floorboard.
To clean it just get underneath the truck and locate the tube attached to the drain hole - at the passenger side of the firewall just behind the condenser. Then with a wire unclog it - use a softer wire and press gently on it, the plastic is fragile and breaks easily.

The orifice tube is located in the A/C lines. It should be in the line coming out of the firewall from the evaporator, should be the bottom line.

I use and I'd recommend you register for free at www.autozone.com Once registered you'll have access to repair and shop manuals for virtually any car or truck. All the data and diagrams you need now or may need in the future will be a couple of mouse clicks away.

the engine has two knock sensors they are mounted under the intake manifold, $700 sounds a bit high , i think i would price around, as to the question do you have to replace them, NO, but they are there it aid in the ignition control if the engine spark knocks these sensors are there to sense this. and also if one of the sensors is always reading as if the engine is spark knocking then the on-board computer will keep trying to ****** the timing and this will effect you power, and fuel millage.

do yourself a favor and buy a new regulator, the whole thing not just the cable. then pay a glass shop to install it for you. they have the tools, fasteners, and knowledge to take it apart and put it back together without any collateral damage. stay away from dealers. this is a common GM item which commonly fails in that exact manner. find a new one on eBay or at parts stores.

You can take the car to any autozone or advanced auto parts. Tell them your engine light is on and you would like it tested. They will come out to your car and find the exact code and tell you what is wrong with it. It doesnt cost anything, it may be an inexpensive fix, and at least you will know what is wrong with the vehicle.

front wheel bearings going bad. this is common. the speed sensor is part of assembly. it will get real bad and you will have no brakes at low speeds, turning is worse. replace both front hubs. not cheap but will save headaches

sounds serious. For all that id have to start looking to see if the front differential is locked up, look at the wheels and see if ball joints are broken. calipers are locking up. Just from the sound of it something is locked up in the front end. hard to say for sure without looking at it as the same for any mechanic. been professional mechanic for 10yrs now. Best i can say is that its gonna have to go in to the shop if you dont have access to a vehicle hoist and you arent comfortable working on a vehicle. hope this helps you out. good luck.

If you service engine soon light is on you have a problem and the problem needs to be fixed. This light is turned on when the on board diagnostics see a problem and set a code. this code will point you in a direction to solve your problem. So you need to have some one scan your vehicle for codes

I have a 2005 GMC Envoy and you turn the key to on, then press the gas pedal to the floor three time in 5 sec. The oil light blinks once and your done. I'd give it a try. Remember engine off but the key is on. Can't hurt to try it. Otherwise you'll need an owners manual to figure it out.